Streptocarpus reproduction video - Streptocarpus propagation procedure with a leaf


Video of the reproduction of Streptocarpus. You won't be able to write a lot here, you need to look. The process of reproduction of Streptocarpus by a leaf with maximum efficiency is shown, the choice of soil, as well as the planting process. And all this is done without a blade, which is simply amazing. Watching and learning!

Streptocarpus breeding video

You can read the encyclopedia on the care of Streptocarpus.

We will plant streptocarpus in a mixture of perlite and peat in a one-to-one ratio. This method is not new, this landless mixture has been used for a long time and successfully. If there is no such mixture at hand, or there is no time to prepare it, you can use the soil for adult plants, although this is not the best option.

It often happens that we have one sheet, but we want to get more out of it ... What can be done? Cut off a fragment of a streptocarpus leaf along the central vein at a distance of 1 cm from it. A leaf can have up to 6 veins, from which children will go. But in our case, the sheet is not perfect, with damage, so it is possible that the sheet will rot. To leave chances of streptocarpus rooting, we will divide the leaf into parts, then some of them can take root.

Cuttings of streptocarpus do not need to be dried. If the leaf is large, then you can divide the cut fragment lengthwise in half. The main thing is not to mix it up, and not to plant it upside down.

But that's not all! When trimming fragments of a leaf of a home streptocarpus along the central vein, try not to bring the cut to the top, because we will also root it. Before doing this, all dry and damaged parts must be removed.

Well, we also use part of the leaf with the main vein for rooting. It can be divided into 3-5 parts, depending on the size of the sheet. Do not confuse, and do not accidentally plant the stalk of streptocarpus on the wrong side!

Green World

After that, a leaf is selected that we are going to transplant. It depends on this how the future saintpaulia will grow. Leaves and violets grow in rows. It is better not to take leaves from the lower, first row. They are old and won't give birth to babies for a long time after the transplant.

  • You need to choose a leaf that is healthy and bright
  • The sheet must be flexible enough
  • If the leaf was brought from somewhere, you must leave it in warm, with potassium permanganate, water for several hours. After it dries up, you need to start the following actions. At home, almost any type of Saintpaulia can be propagated.

    Primulina (Primulina) - description, cultivation, photo

    Garden groups of primroses

    Currently, there is no generally accepted classification of primroses, there are up to 23 groups or sections; the world assortment includes 400 species and thousands of varieties.

    On the left is the primrose in my lens, on the right are the garden groups of primroses. Photo by the author

    The most simple and easy-to-use classification of primroses of the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain (The Royal Horticultural Society), which identifies only 3 garden groups.

    It includes: primrose Biss, item Bulley, item Japanese, their hybrids and varieties.

    Primula of Biss, or primrose of Biss

    Primula Biss (Primula beesiana syn.P. bulleyana)

    - deciduous or semi-evergreen rosette perennial up to 60 cm high and wide. It comes from the humid mountainous regions of China.

    Primula Biss

    Leaves are large, up to 22 cm long. Flowers are small, up to 2 cm in diameter, white, yellow-orange, red-pink, collected in 8-16 blooms in summer. Cultivation group 2 (we will talk in detail about the gradation on this basis a little later).

    Bulley primrose, or Bulley primrose

    Primula Bulley (Primula bulleyana)

    - up to 60 cm high and wide. Leaves up to 30 cm.

    Primula Bulley

    Flowers from cream to orange, collected in 5 pieces in 5-7 inflorescences-curls, bloom in summer. She is also from China, from the slopes of the mountains. Cultivation group 2.

    Japanese primrose, or Japanese primrose

    Japanese primrose (Primula japonica)

    - originally from the humid regions of Japan.

    Japanese primrose

    Height and width about 45 cm. Leaves up to 25 cm. Flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, from red-purple to white, 5-25 pieces in 1-6 curls bloom in late spring - summer. Cultivation group 2.

    ... These are complex hybrids with flowers of various colors, which are called so - polyanthus, multi-flowered or Victorian primroses (

    ). Plus high primrose hybrids (

    ). Cultivation groups 1, 2, 4, or 6.


    Primula, or primrose, is a common plant in the temperate latitudes of Eurasia and North America. In nature, these beautifully flowering herbs are found on mountain slopes, meadows and forest edges. The primrose is easy to recognize by the dense rosette of dense, embossed leaves - in texture they resemble the wool of young sheep, astrakhan, which is why the people call the primrose “rams”. With the arrival of spring, stems with an umbrella-shaped or spikelet peduncle (in tall species) rise from the center of the leaf basket, or many large flowers open on short stems, forming a bright "cap" above the green base.

    Tall primroses can reach a length of 30–35 cm, flowers have a diameter of 2–4 cm. They feel good outdoors and are unpretentious to care for. Low ones, in which the petals are more noticeable and wider, are popular as indoor plants, they are often presented for spring holidays. The special pride of breeders is terry varieties with lush multi-layered flowers, reminiscent of blossoming roses.

    The palette of shades of primroses is incredibly rich: monochromatic ones alternate with expressive contrasts, gentle gradients - with patterns, unusual edging, strokes, veins. The central part of regular five-petalled flowers is most often bright yellow, around which all kinds of combinations of tones look even more saturated.

    More than 550 plant species are ranked in the Primula genus, but for convenience they can be conditionally divided into several sections.

    Until recently, the Primulina genus (the Gesneriev family) was considered monotypic. That is, it consisted of a single species. However, based on the results of scientific research, the classification has been revised. As a result, most of the Khirita species were transferred to the Primulin genus, thereby increasing the number to 121.

    Shrubs, annual weak-stemmed grasses, perennial stemless - the genus of Primulin is now very diverse. The leaf blades of its representatives are round, lanceolate or elliptical. Some plants have smooth glossy leaves, others are covered with fluff. The color is more often monotonous green, but variegated Primulins are also found.

    Peduncles emerge from the leaf axils. Delicate flowers, similar to small gramophone, are collected in cluster inflorescences. There are white, yellow, blue, lilac, pink or bicolor. The pharynx is usually bright. In some species, the surfaces of the petals are decorated with lines or spots.

    Growing Primulina does not cause much trouble, so the plant is very popular with flower growers. In addition to species flowers, through the efforts of breeders, many hybrid varieties have been bred.

    Growing primroses and caring for them

    and dividing the bush. Seed propagation takes patience. Seeds of primroses are small, moreover, they quickly lose their germination. However, from experience I can say that many of the difficulties of this method are exaggerated.

    really not always happy. Often, out of 5-7 seeds in a bag of some expensive variety, only one emerges. But there are varieties with almost one hundred percent germination.

    You will find a large assortment of seeds of various primroses in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. Select primrose seeds.

    Primula F1 You and Me
    RUB 85 WATCHRussian Vegetable Garden
    Primula F1 Flower Frost®, mix (PROF-POST)
    RUB 299 WATCHRussian Vegetable Garden
    Primula Large-flowered F1, mix of colors
    RUB 30 WATCHRussian Vegetable Garden
    Primula F1 Flower Frost Blend
    RUB 33 WATCHRussian Vegetable Garden

    Seed stratification is considered mandatory (prolonged exposure to cold), or better - temperature buildup: sequential alternation of cold and heat (for example, put in a refrigerator - rearrange it in a room - repeat the cycle many times during the day). Again, from experience I will say: it all depends on the type and variety of primrose.

    Seedling of primrose. Photo by the author

    However, no - I still carry out one procedure: I soak the seeds in a solution of humic concentrate GUMI-20 for a day. I will say right away: this is a troublesome and laborious business. The easiest way was to soak, pouring the solution directly into a bag of seeds from a cloth, they are very difficult to collect. And I sow with a toothpick, carefully laying out one seed at a time on the soil surface.

    The container with the crops is covered with a film or a transparent lid, and then the main thing is to make sure that the soil does not dry out. The germination period can be very extended. To this day (April is coming!) I still have primroses sown in February. They say that they can ascend in the second or third year, but it is problematic to check it at home.

    Dividing a bush is an easier and more popular way to breed primroses. One way or another, this procedure should be performed after 3-5 years, because old bushes weaken, leaves and flowers become smaller. One of the great things about primroses is that they tolerate division and transplanting well during flowering. Read more about how to carry out this procedure correctly in the publication How to propagate a primrose by dividing a bush

    Despite the variety of conditions in which these plants live, areas in partial shade are generally preferred for planting primroses. In direct sunlight, primroses wither. The soil needs fertile and loose. On heavy clay soil, water can stagnate, and primroses will wither in the spring or suffer from diseases.

    The messengers of spring are primroses. Photo by the author

    The root system of Primulina is small, so shallow containers are suitable for growing a plant. In addition, a good drainage layer is required. Young plants are transplanted annually, adults, as they grow, once every 2-3 years. Transfer can be replaced by transfer.

    Propagated by Primulina seeds and cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only when growing species of plants. To do this, the seeds should be placed in a container with a moist substrate, without deepening. The dish must be covered with glass or plastic. At a temperature of 24–26 ° C, seedlings appear in 2 weeks. Seedlings require additional lighting and gentle moisture. After the formation of leaves, a pick is carried out.

    Good results are obtained from propagation by leaf cuttings. A stalk is cut off from a strong, but not old leaf separated from the outlet. They are planted in light soil and covered with polyethylene. In an improvised mini-greenhouse, seedlings appear in 1–1.5 months.

    There is also a "horizontal" breeding method. The sheet from the seamy side is cut along the veins, laid on the soil mixture and covered with glass. At the same time, the container is placed in a warm and bright place. As the shoots appear, the glass is slightly opened. The resulting sockets are transplanted into separate pots.

    Pests and diseases

    With improper care and non-observance of the temperature regime, you can encounter problems: either different insects start on the plant, or the primrose is damaged by diseases. Taking proper care of your primrose prevents pests and diseases. The plants look healthy and delight growers for a long time with their abundant flowering.

    Compliance with the listed conditions is a guarantee that the plants will be strong and blooming, but sometimes even the correct agricultural technique does not save from the attack of insects or diseases. In the fight against them, special preparations will help - insecticides and fungicides. Sometimes ordinary pharmaceutical solutions, which are in every home, or folk remedies, are also very useful: ash, tinctures of garlic, onion husks, makhorka, aloe juice, etc.

    The main pests of primrose:

    Nematodes - give themselves away with swelling and curvature of the stems. To get rid of them, the soil is treated with sulfur. On flower beds, marigolds growing in the neighborhood will serve as a good prophylactic agent.

    Aphids - appears when there is a lack of phosphoric acid, and you can notice it by sticky white or black dots on the stem and on the inside of the leaves. To eliminate, you can use insecticides or bioactive agents, infusion of garlic, onions or tobacco leaves, soap solution (100 g of tar soap per 10 liters of water), ash infusion (1 glass of ash per 5 liters of water, stand for 12 hours).

    Slugs - can harm primroses if it grows in an area that is too humid or if it rains for a long time. You will have to collect snails by hand or transplant the bushes to a drier place.

    Diseases of primroses are mainly caused by fungi. They can appear in the form of rust on the leaves, gray and brown spots, rot on the roots and stems. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid or Fitosporin helps to destroy harmful spores, but the main thing is to prevent waterlogging of the plants by correctly regulating watering.

    The greatest danger to primulins is provided by all types of rot, which quickly spread along the root collar and cuttings of leaves with excessive watering or getting wet. You can fight them only by cutting out damaged tissues (with processing with charcoal), transferring to dry conditions, emergency transplanting with compacted and moldy soil. Fungicide treatments usually do not help. If the base of the outlet rots at the plant, it is difficult to save it.

    Pests on primulines are very rare.

    Common growing problems:

    • light or dry spots when watered with cold water
    • yellowing of the lower leaves in adult plants due to the natural renewal of rosettes, in young ones - when a transplant is needed
    • rolling leaves in the heat or in a sunny location in direct sunlight
    • growing greenery with poor flowering - improper feeding or too large a pot.

    Mealybug, spider mite, scale insect, whitefly, gray rot.

    Early flowering primroses

    Flowering begins in March and ends in May. The very first of them to bloom high primrose, P. Julia and P. pink.

    Primula of Julia, or primrose of Julia

    Primula Julia (Primula juliae)

    miniature and charming, 7 cm high, up to 25 cm wide. It comes from the Eastern Transcaucasia.

    Primula Julia cultivar 'Theodora'

    The leaves are ovate-rounded, large-crowned along the edge, up to 10 cm long. The flowers are violet-lilac, purple, with a yellow eye, up to 3 cm in diameter, located 1 each on thin pedicels there is a white-flowered form. Cultivation group 1, 2, or 4. With a lack of moisture, sheds leaves. Suitable for use as a ground cover plant.

    Primrose pink, or primrose pink

    Primula pink (Primula rosea)

    Is a deciduous rosette perennial native to Afghanistan, Nepal.

    Primrose pink

    Leaves up to 20 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, young ones are bronze-red. The flowers are pink-red, with a yellow eye, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in 4-12 umbellate inflorescences. Cultivation group 2.

    You can find a large assortment of primroses of various types and varieties in our catalog, which combines the offers of various garden online stores. Select primrose seeds.

    Primula F1 You and Me
    85 rub WATCH
    Russian Vegetable Garden

    Primula F1 Flower Frost®, mix (PROF-POST)
    299 rub WATCH
    Russian Vegetable Garden

    Primula Large-flowered F1, mix of colors
    30 rub WATCH
    Russian Vegetable Garden

    Primula F1 Flower Frost Blend
    33 rub WATCH
    Russian Vegetable Garden

    These species and their varieties are taking over from the early primroses' magic flowering.

    Reproduction of primulina

    Seeds, leafy cuttings.

    Most primrose species are perennials, so a single plant can live in a pot or outdoors for more than ten years. Reproduction is carried out mainly by seeds or dividing the bush, very rarely - by cuttings.

    It is advisable to sow seeds no later than 6 months after collection, since they quickly lose their germination. The ideal time to start the process is December-January, so that by the time the shoots appear, the sunny day is already long.

    Seeds are sown in light garden soil over the surface and are not covered from above. For the first 3-4 weeks, a container covered with a lid with moistened soil and crops is stored in the refrigerator - on the warmest shelf or in the doors, at a temperature of about 5C. It is important that the substrate does not dry out at this time.

    After such an "artificial winter", the container is transferred to the windowsill (east or west) and the lid is opened to allow air to reach the sprouts. Young primrose seedlings should always be in partial shade, they also need high humidity and a minimum of heat (no more than 12 ... 15C). In summer, seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight and drying out of the soil. In general, it will take a year and a half before transplanting seedlings into open ground, and it will begin to bloom only in the third.

    Dividing a bush is the most convenient and affordable way to propagate primroses. To do this, an adult 3-5-year-old plant is dug up and divided into parts so that each has at least one bud with roots. This is best done immediately after the end of the flowering period, after feeding the mother bush with nitrogen fertilizers. The separated sprouts are planted in a permanent place in holes or new pots, deepening to the previous level, after which they are tamped and watered regularly.

    Primrose cuttings are carried out if there are no roots for division. In this case, a shoot is cut off at the soil level, which is planted in a moist mixture of garden soil and river sand. The sprout is left in a bright place at 18C until leaves appear, after which it is ready for planting.

    Primrose can be propagated by 2 methods: by sowing seeds and by dividing the rosette into parts, that is, vegetatively.

    This is a fairly easy plant to propagate, which can be obtained from seeds, and simply by rooting leafy cuttings like an uzambara violet. Leaves with petioles can be rooted even in water, and if desired, in sand, a peat-sand mixture or a substrate under a hood or film. The release of a large number of children can be expected within a month and a half after planting, they are separated and deposited as they grow up. Parts of a leaf cut along the lateral veins can also be rooted.

    Many primulin species, especially in adulthood, release daughter plants at the base of the mother socket. And they can be separated, rooted and grown as independent plants.

    Primulina seeds are sown in late winter or early spring, in a regular substrate or a mixture of soil and sand in equal amounts. Seeds are scattered over the leveled substrate and not covered with soil. After sowing, containers under glass or film are kept in the brightest place and at a temperature of 25 degrees Celsius or more.

    Germination in heat occurs after 2 weeks (the lower the temperature, the slower the process). Young primulines are kept in supplementary lighting with a day length of at least 12 hours. Watering is carried out drip, without affecting the plant itself. Primulines dive as the first true leaf appears. Plants need to be handled very carefully, they break off easily.

    Success secrets

    Primulina loves diffused lighting, direct sunlight causes leaf burns. Flowers and leaves are drawn to the light, therefore, to form a symmetrical rosette, the container with the flower must be periodically rotated.

    The plant prefers medium air temperatures - in the range of 20-26 ° C. Some species with a dormant period require winter cooling up to 16 ° C.

    Water the flower regularly during the period of active growth. Water for irrigation at room temperature must first settle. Watering should be done very carefully, avoiding stagnation and getting into either the axils of the leaves or the flowers. During the rest period, the watering procedure is limited.

    Primulina loves moisture, but spraying is fraught with water droplets entering the center of the outlet. Therefore, you can only humidify the air around the plant or use trays.

    To feed the flower, it is recommended to take complex mineral fertilizers. It is desirable to reduce the concentration by half.

    Conditions for germination of seedlings

    In order for the seeds to germinate quickly and correctly, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

    • monitor the state of the soil mixture - it is important to maintain light moisture
    • watering can be carried out exclusively through a pallet or using a spray
    • observe the air humidity - the optimal indicator is from 80%
    • ventilate the seed container every day
    • observe the temperature regime - seeds germinate at + 20-25 ° C
    • provide the seedlings with diffused sunshine
    • be patient - germination occurs in 10–20 days.

    Do not forget to pick in time - this stage is very important for the further growth of the flower.

    Reproduction methods

    Dividing the bush

    It is possible to propagate by dividing the bush a highly overgrown streptocarpus. To begin with, the substrate in the pot is watered with a small amount of water, then the bush is pulled out of the container, and the remaining soil mixture is removed from the root system. Then a sharp instrument is taken, with which part of the thick root with foliage is separated. Leave the cuttings for a while in the fresh air so that the cut points dry well, then they must be treated with charcoal powder. The prepared pot is 2/3 filled with fresh substrate, then a cut rosette is placed in it and sprinkled with soil mixture to the level of the root collar. Next, the substrate must be slightly compacted, and the bush must be poured with lukewarm water. In order for the division to take root better, the pot is covered with cellophane on top. You can also speed up rooting and activate the growth of young foliage by shortening the large leaf plates in half, or they can be cut off altogether. After a little time, the bush that has grown from the cut will begin to bloom.

    Growing from seeds

    Seeds are sown in a small container, while they are evenly distributed over the surface of the substrate. Then the container is covered with glass on top. Crops need bottom irrigation through the pallet, they also need to provide systematic ventilation, the lighting should be bright, but diffused, and the air temperature should be constantly about 21 degrees. In order for the temperature not to drop, you need to put a piece of paper on top of the glass. However, it is better to keep crops not on the windowsill, but under the lamps. After 6 weeks, the cover needs to be moved slightly and then removed completely. For the first picking of seedlings, a container is used, which should be slightly larger than the old one, while the distance between them should be increased only slightly. In order not to injure the seedlings during the dive, they must be transplanted carefully. First, you need to lightly knock on the walls of the container, then carefully pry the plant with a needle and, holding the foliage with your fingers, transplant it into a new container. The substrate is slightly compacted, then the transplanted seedlings are watered, after which the container is placed on a pallet and transferred to a warm place, while on top it is covered with glass or film. Individual pots are used for the second pick. In order for the plants to develop better, it is recommended to feed them.

    Seeds can be sown several times a year, and this can be done at any time of the year. Thanks to this, you can get bushes that will bloom at different times.


    A young leaf plate, which is well developed and absolutely healthy (there are no signs of disease or harmful insects) must be cut off from the bush, and then the petiole must be cut with a sharp blade. After the places of the cuts are dry, the leaf stalk must be planted in a small pot, while it is placed vertically. Then it is sprayed with a solution of a fungicidal preparation, and the container is covered with a film on top. After that, the pot is removed to a well-lit and warm place. After 4-6 weeks, young shoots should appear. After the plant grows a little and gets stronger, it needs to be transplanted into a permanent pot. If bushes of streptocarpus of various species are cultivated, then it is recommended to stick labels on the pots with the name of the variety.

    For reproduction, you can also use part of the leaf plate. To do this, the sheet is laid with its front surface on a board, after which, using a sharp blade, it is divided into strips, the width of which should be 50 mm. It is necessary to cut the leaf plate perpendicular to the median vein. The lower and uppermost parts of the leaf plate must be thrown out, and the remaining segments are planted in the grooves with the base of the cutting down at an angle of 45 degrees. A distance of at least 30 mm should be kept between the cuttings. They must be sprayed with a solution of a fungicidal preparation, then the container is covered with a transparent bag on top and removed to a humid place where the air temperature should be from 20 to 22 degrees. Watering the cuttings is carried out through the pallet, and they also need daily ventilation. Young shoots will appear from the ground after 6-8 weeks.

    For reproduction, you can also use the longitudinal part of the sheet plate. To do this, the leaf is laid on the board face down, and then the median vein is separated with a sharp blade. In the resulting two parts of the sheet plate, the places of the cuts must be sprinkled with coal powder. After that, they are planted in grooves with a cut vertically downward, deepening them by 1/3 of the height of the leaf petiole, then the substrate is slightly compacted, after which it is watered, and the container is covered with a film from above. The container is rearranged in a well-lit and warm place. Young plants will appear along the entire leaf plate from side veins. On the seamy surface of the plate on the median vein, it is necessary to make twenty-millimeter cuts every 2 cm. Then the leaf cutting with the seamy surface is pinned to the surface of the moistened substrate, after which it is sprayed with a fungicidal agent. From above, the container with cuttings must be covered with glass, and then it is transferred to a well-lit place, protected from direct sunlight. After the young shoots appear, the shelter must be slightly moved.

    When the grown and matured bushes are transplanted into individual pots, their first few days will need to be covered with a transparent plastic bag. After the shelter is removed, the plants must be looked after in the same way as for the adult specimens.

    Possible problems when growing streptocarpus

    Streptocarpus is susceptible to diseases caused by pathogenic fungi and pest attacks. Fungal diseases are difficult to treat. Gray rot develops on plants that have suffered from the cold or have received mechanical damage. Light brown spots of rot first appear on the stems, leaves and flowers, on which gray mold forms over time. Fungicides are used to combat.

    Fusarium root rot appears with excessive watering and low temperatures. Petioles and peduncles can also rot. The disease is not cured, however, plants can be saved at the very beginning of fusarium, when the roots are little affected. The plant is transplanted, decayed cuttings are removed.

    With powdery mildew, a whitish powdery coating appears on the leaves, the plant loses its decorative effect, the leaves are deformed and dry out. In case of severe damage, the flower may die. Favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high air humidity and sharp temperature fluctuations, drafts. At the first signs of damage, treatment of the flower with a copper-soap solution helps.

    Aphids are a sedentary insect that settles on young leaves, buds and flowers and are carriers of viral diseases. The leaves are curled, deformed, and outgrowths are formed. The waste products of aphids are sugary secretions, on which a sooty fungus often appears. The pest is washed off with soapy water (20 g of green liquid potassium soap per 1 liter of water).

    Spider mites feel good at high temperatures and low humidity. When damaged, the leaves in the center of the rosette stop growing and curl. From the underside, they acquire a silvery sheen. With a large number of pests on the plant, the thinnest cobweb is noticeable. Treatment with potash soap, increasing air humidity and lowering the air temperature will help get rid of the pest.

    Thrips feed on plant cell sap. As a result, the flower stops growing, loses its decorative effect, leaves and flowers are deformed. The infected plant is treated with actellik, phytoverm and acarin.

    Streptocarpus - Streptocarpus

    Streptocarpus (Streptocarpus) belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. This genus includes more than one hundred and thirty varieties. This culture grows wild in the Asian and African territories. This genus includes shrub and herbaceous vegetation, it can be both annual and perennial, it all depends on the variety. This flower began to be cultivated in indoor conditions in the nineteenth century. This culture is rosette, and the stem is shortened. The leaves are wide, lanceolate, have dense pubescence, can be green or variegated. Flowers emerge from the leaf sinuses, grow singly or two in a bunch. The name "streptocarpus" appeared due to the type of fruit, because they resemble an elongated box in a spiral. The bush begins to bloom in the spring season, ends in the autumn season. In winter, the plant is in a short dormant period, and the leaves do not fall off.

    Streptocarpus description

    The plant begins to bloom in the spring season, ends in the fall.

    Requires bright but diffuse illumination.

    In spring and summer, temperature conditions should be at least twenty degrees and not higher than twenty-five. With the onset of October days, the temperature regime drops to fifteen degrees.

    During the entire growing season, watering is carried out regularly and in moderation. Since October days, watering is reduced, in winter they are carried out in small quantities, however, make sure that the soil clod in the container does not completely dry out.

    Humidity level should be moderate.

    Top dressing. When the bush is actively growing, it is necessary to apply top dressing once a week, for this purpose, a complex of minerals is used.

    The plant is in a dormant period from the beginning of the second autumn month to February days.

    The transplant is carried out in early spring. Young plants are transplanted once a year, adult specimens - once every three to four years.

    Soil substrate. Ready-made potting mix for Saintpaulia. Or you can prepare the substrate yourself, it contains sand, humus, leaf and sod soil in a proportional ratio of 1: 1: 2: 3. If the plant is young, then instead of sod soil you need to take a leafy one.

    Reproduction methods: cuttings, dividing the bush, seeds.

    Pests. Scabbard, thrips, whitefly, mealybug, spider mite.

    Streptocarpus home care

    When cultivating this crop at home, it should be provided with bright, but diffused illumination.This plant will grow well on a western or eastern windowsill. If you place it on a south-facing windowsill, then the direct sun will need to be made scattered without fail. The northern window is not suitable for growing due to lack of light, and this negatively affects the growth, development and flowering of the bush.

    In the spring, summer season and in the first weeks of the autumn season, the room must maintain a temperature regime within twenty-twenty-five degrees. Since the beginning of the second autumn month, temperature conditions have been decreasing, given that they should be fifteen degrees, not lower. The most optimal temperature regime for transferring the winter season is fifteen degrees.

    In spring and summer, streptocarpus is watered regularly and in moderation, making sure that the soil clod in the container does not dry out for a long time. From the beginning of the second autumn month, watering is reduced, in winter they are carried out in a small volume, you need to ensure that the soil mixture does not dry out, in addition, liquid should not stagnate in it. Watering is carried out with well-settled water at room temperature conditions.

    With a very low air humidity, drying of the ends of the leaves will begin. They should be cut in time with a sharp knife, and a board is placed under the sheet at this time.

    Fertilize the bush during the entire growing season three to four times every thirty days. For this purpose, a complex of minerals is used.

    Young plants are systematically transplanted, or rather, once a year. Mature shrubs are transplanted on more rare occasions, usually once every three to four years. Flowers are transplanted in early spring into low containers of large width, filled with a soil substrate, which includes leafy and soddy soil and sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 2. Also, a soil mixture containing sand, humus, sod and deciduous soil in a ratio of 1: 1: 3: 2 is used for transplanting. For this purpose, a ready-made soil mix for Saintpaulias from the store is used. So that the soil mixture is not too moist, a little crushed charcoal is poured into it. When transplanting a young plant, sod soil is removed from the substrate.

    Streptocarpus reproduction

    Reproduction by dividing the bush.

    This method is used for bushes that have grown very well. First, the soil in the container is watered with a small volume of liquid, then the plant is pulled out of the pot, the earth is removed from the roots. Next, you need to take a sharpened knife, separate part of the thickened root with leaves. It is necessary to leave the separated parts for some period of time on the street for good drying of the sections, after which they are treated with coal in the form of a powder. The prepared container is filled in two-thirds of its part with fresh soil mixture, then a cut is placed there and sprinkled with a substrate to the root collar. Then the soil mixture is slightly compacted, the bush is watered with warm water. For the survival of the separated part, the container is covered with polyethylene on top. To accelerate rooting and enhance the growth of young leaves, you can shorten the large leaves by ½ or even cut them off. After a while, the flowering of the bush will begin.

    Seed propagation method.

    Sowing seeds is carried out in a small pot, and the seeds are equally distributed over the surface soil layer. Next, the pot is covered with glass on top. The plantings are watered in the lower way through the pallet, in addition, they need to be regularly ventilated, the illumination should be bright, but diffused, the temperature should always be about twenty-one degrees. To avoid lowering the temperature conditions, a sheet of paper is placed on top of the glass. But it is advisable to keep the plantings not on the window, but to supplement them with phytolamps. After six weeks, the covering material shifts a little, then it is completely removed. The first time the plants dive into a container larger than the previous one, the interval between seedlings does not increase much. In order to avoid injuries to the plants at the time of the dive, the transplant is carried out carefully. First, you need to knock a little on the walls of the container, then the seedling is gently pry off with a needle and transplanted into a new pot, while holding the leaves with your fingers. The soil mixture is slightly compacted, after which the plantings are watered, then the pot is placed in a pallet and transferred to heat, it is covered with glass or polyethylene on top. The second time the plants dive in separate containers. For good development, seedlings are fed.

    Sowing of grains can be carried out more than once a year, and this procedure is carried out in any season. You get bushes that bloom at different times.

    Young healthy and well-developed leaves, unaffected by diseases and pests, are cut from the bush, then the petioles are cut with pointed material. After the places of the cuts have dried, the petiole is planted in a small container, and it is installed directly. After that, spraying with a fungicide solution is carried out, the top of the pot is covered with polyethylene. Then the container is placed in a room with good illumination and positive temperature. After four to six weeks, young shoots appear. After growing and strengthening, the plant is transplanted into a permanent container. If you grow different varieties of this crop, then stick the name stickers on the pots.

    In order to propagate streptocarpus, part of the leaflet is used. For this purpose, the sheet is laid with the outside on a board, then it is divided into strips fifty mm wide with a sharp blade. The leaf is cut in a perpendicular plane with respect to the central vein. The lower and upper parts of the leaflet are discarded, the remaining parts are planted in the pits with the lower part of the petiole downward at an angle of forty-five degrees. There should be an interval of thirty mm between seedlings, not less. Next, spraying with a fungicide solution is carried out, after which the container is covered with polyethylene on top and removed to a room with high humidity, where temperature conditions are observed in the range from twenty to twenty-two degrees. The petioles are watered through the pallet, and they also need to be ventilated every day. Young shoots will appear in six to eight weeks.

    The flower can be propagated by the longitudinal part of the leaf. For this purpose, the sheet is laid on the board with the outside, then the central vein is separated with a pointed blade. In 2 parts of the leaf, the cuts are sprinkled with coal in the form of a powder. After that, they are planted in the pits with the cut point straight down, they are buried by one third of the length of the leaf petiole, then the soil mixture is slightly compacted, then watering is carried out, and the container is covered with polyethylene on top. The pot is moved to a room with good illumination and favorable air temperature. Seedlings will appear all over the leaf in the longitudinal plane from the lateral veins. The central vein of the inner side of the leaf is cut into pieces equal to 20 mm every couple of cm. Next, the cutting with the inner side is pinned to the surface soil layer, then treatment is carried out with a fungicide solution. On top of the landing, they are covered with glass, then transferred to a room with good illumination, and the place must also be protected from the direct sun. After the emergence of young shoots, the covering material shifts slightly.

    After replanting the grown and strengthened bushes in separate containers, the first days they are covered with polyethylene material. After removing the cover for the seedlings, the same care is taken as for the adult vegetation.


    The appearance of gray rot. With too much watering, the plant can be damaged by gray rot.

    Drilling buds. The reason is a very high temperature regime.

    The edges of the leaves turn brown. Reasons: water stagnated in the soil mixture, very low air humidity.

    Pests. In frequent cases, the bush is attacked by thrips, spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and mealybugs.


    Streptocarpus "Snow-white" (Streptocarpus candidus).

    This culture is rosette. The leaves wrinkle, about fifteen cm in breadth, up to forty-five cm in length. The bush blooms magnificently. The surface of the white flowers, 25 mm long, has purple lines. The lower lip of the flower has stripes of purple color, and the throat has purple dots.

    Streptocarpus "Big" (Streptocarpus grandis).

    This bush has only one leaf, about thirty cm in breadth, up to forty cm in length.The stem grows up to half a meter, a tassel inflorescence grows at its top, which consists of flowers, the corolla of their pale purple coloration, the throat is darker, the lower the lip is white.

    Streptocarpus "Cornflower" (Streptocarpus cyaneus).

    The flower is rosette, the stem grows up to fifteen cm. The flowers on the stem are pink in color, collected in two in a bunch. The middle is yellow, and the throat surface is covered with purple stripes and dots.

    Streptocarpus "Wendland" (Streptocarpus wendlandii).

    The homeland of this species is the south of the African continent. The plant has only one leaf, reaching one meter in length, more than fifty cm in breadth, the surface of dark green coloration has paler veins. From the sinuses of an elongated peduncle, flowers grow five cm in size, the corolla is painted in a dark purple color, the surface of the pharynx is covered with stripes of white.

    Streptocarpus "Glandulosissimus" (Streptocarpus glandulosissimus).

    This variety can be found wild in the Ulugur and Uzambar mountainous areas. The stem grows up to fifteen cm. The color of the flowers can be different, from dark blue to purple.

    Streptocarpus "Yokhanskiy" (Streptocarpus johannis).

    The stem is vertical. Rosette flower. The leaves are about ten cm in width, up to fifty cm in length. The stem bears about thirty bluish-purple flowers, 20 mm in size.

    Streptocarpus "King" (Streptocarpus rexii).

    Rosette culture. Homeland - the south of the African territory. The surface of the oblong lanceolate leaves is pubescent, they are five cm in breadth, and up to twenty-five cm in length.Flowers grow from the sinuses singly or gather two in a bunch, the corolla is in the form of a funnel, reaches about fifty mm in length, approximately twenty five mm. The flowers are painted in a pale lavender color, the surface of the throat and the tube has stripes of purple color. The bush blooms for a long time and richly.

    Streptocarpus "Primrose" (Streptocarpus polyanthus).

    Homeland - the south of the African territory. The leaf is densely pubescent, about thirty cm long. Peduncles are long, bear flowers 40 mm in size, pale blue in color with a yellow center in the middle. The pharynx is paler, reminiscent of a lock hole.

    Streptocarpus primulistny (Streptocarpus primulifolius).

    Rosette flower. Only four flowers are formed from white to pale purple in color, their surface has dots and stripes. The stem grows up to twenty-five cm.

    Streptocarpus "Rocky" (Streptocarpus saxorum).

    This variety can be found wild in the mountainous areas of the tropics in the east of the African continent at an altitude of more than a thousand meters above sea level. Stems hang down, grow up to fifty cm. Leaves are oppositely located. The flowers are slightly inclined to the ground, painted in a bluish color, reminiscent of Saintpaulia flowers.

    Streptocarpus "Canvas" (Streptocarpus holstii).

    This variety can be found wild in the tropics in the east of the African continent. Shoots are juicy, flexible, grow up to half a meter. The leaves are wrinkled, located opposite, their surface is pubescent, about fifty mm in length. Three cm purple flowers, white corolla tube.

    Watch the video: Propagation of Streptocarpus

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