Why is the carrot fly dangerous for the harvest? This small pest is capable of destroying large quantities of carrots, parsley and celery crops. The carrot fly begins its "dark" business in the spring, when the surface layer of the soil warms up from the sun's rays to about 15 degrees Celsius. In this layer, the pupae of this pest wait out the cold. They are not afraid of any frosts. At this time, carrot flies of the first generation appear, and in just a season they can appear twice.
Spring flies lay large numbers of eggs right at the base of the carrot stem within three weeks of emergence. In just a week, larvae will emerge from the eggs, which will begin to feed on the young fruits of the carrots. Traces of a carrot fly on vegetable plants are visible to the naked eye, as numerous wormholes and small holes appear on the root crop. The green tops suddenly begin to turn yellow and dry out.
During the first summer month, the larvae feed on vegetables and soon turn into pupae, so that after a while the second generation of pests is released into the world. This happens around the middle of the summer season. The carrot fly hibernates well not only in the beds, but also in cool, damp basements and cellars.
Everyone has their own vulnerabilities or weaknesses, and the carrot fly also has them. It is necessary to use them in order to protect vegetable crops.
1. It is recommended to use mixed plantings - carrots plus onions. The smell of onions scares the fly away, and it will not eat carrots that grow in the same garden with such an unpleasant aroma.
2. The flower aromas of calendula and marigolds are also not to the liking of the carrot fly. You can safely plant these flower crops in the aisles. They will not only scare off the pest, but also decorate the summer cottage.
3. This pest has one feature - the fly does not fly higher than 80 centimeters in height. This makes it possible to protect the carrot beds without the use of chemicals. You just need to cover the land plot with carrot beds around the perimeter with any lightweight and air-permeable material. Even old tulle will do. To care for vegetables, do not forget to leave yourself the opportunity to go inside the fence.
4. In order not to create favorable conditions for the carrot fly, such as shade and moist soil, it is recommended to water the carrots no more than once a week. And it is better to plant plants at a distance from each other.
If for some reason you do not dare to use agrotechnical methods of dealing with carrot fly, then choose one of their proven folk methods.
1. The first method will require a certain amount of material investment. We are talking about the use of various biological products. Most often, the drug "Summer resident" is used, with the help of which spraying is carried out in the spring (at the beginning of May) and in the summer (in mid-July). This effective remedy is only dangerous for carrot flies and is absolutely harmless to pets, birds and people.
2. If you add 1 tablespoon of ammonia to a bucket of irrigation water, the plants will receive nitrogen fertilization and protection from the pest. The fly doesn't like the ammonia smell. This watering is carried out twice - in May and July.
3. In a ten-liter bucket of water, add a small amount of table salt (about 25-30 grams). You need to water the carrot beds with this solution twice - in the first and third week of June.
4. The first preventive treatment against the pest should be carried out at the initial stage of plant development. Young seedlings with two or three full-fledged leaves during thinning must be sprayed with a prepared infusion of onion husks or tomato tops (possibly from wormwood or yarrow).
For 10 liters of hot water, you need 800 grams of one of the plant species. The infusion is kept for 48 hours, and filtered before use. The herbs or onion skins remaining after pressing can be spread between the carrot beds.
5. In the same initial period, you can use another infusion for spraying young plants - based on citrus fruits. 500 grams of dried orange (or tangerine) peel should be poured with 5 liters of warm water. Three days in a warm and darkened room - and the infusion is ready for use.
6. The weak point of the carrot fly is the negative reaction to harsh aromas. These unpleasant odors include naphthalene. The tablets of this drug should be placed in half-liter plastic containers with several cut holes, closed with a lid and spread between carrot plantings. With the first rays of the sun, an unpleasant smell will appear and scare away the pest.
7. Dusting the row spacing is also considered by many gardeners and gardeners to be an effective tool in the fight against carrot flies. This procedure is recommended to be carried out twice (in the spring - in May and in the summer - in July) during the periods of active departure of the pest. Ground pepper (red or black), dry mustard, tobacco dust can be used as "powder". The preparations are poured in the immediate vicinity of vegetable crops. Their bright aroma will keep the pest out even close.
Please note that compliance with the rules of crop rotation and joint planting still gives a greater effect in the fight against carrot fly.
SUPER CARROT FLY REMEDY! DOUBLE PROTECTION!
Let's not beat around the bush and give false hopes, but let's say straight away: varieties of carrots that are absolutely resistant to carrot fly are a myth. Perhaps, in the future, genetic engineers and biotechnologists will be able to develop hybrids that are inedible for the carrot fly, but for now we will have to fight the carrot fly in other ways.
Now for the good news. Work is underway to improve the sustainability of carrots and results are also available. Varieties that can withstand this malicious pest have already been bred. Yes, they are not one hundred percent insured against voracious carrot fly larvae, but the chances of growing healthy root crops of these varieties are higher than those of others.
We will conventionally divide such varieties into two groups. The first group includes hybrids, the manufacturer of which directly indicates an increased resistance to damage by carrot flies. The fact is that the pest is attracted by the chlorogenic acid contained in the carrot tops - it is on its “smell” that the carrot fly flies. In the varieties listed below, the level of chlorogenic acid is reduced, so it is much more difficult for a fly to detect crops.
These varieties are produced by foreign companies, and not everything can be found on the Russian retail market. Although it is possible that in a couple of years, seeds of resistant varieties will be on the shelves of every gardening store.
Before going to the neighbors with a showdown, you should think about: how could your garden attract a carrot fly? There are several reasons for the appearance of an insect, but even one may be enough for the growth of a colony of dangerous pests:
Everything is not so scary and fixable. The main thing is to make sure that the carrot was attacked by the carrot fly, and not by the flies, umbrella moth, carrot aphid, exclamation scoop or some kind of disease with a terrible name, for example, cercospora.
Carrots damaged by a carrot fly.
Do not think that the use of insecticides will completely protect the planting from an insidious insect. Getting rid of it is not easy, and some gardeners struggle every year. Meanwhile, the solution is simple - a comprehensive hike, when, along with the extermination of carrot flies in the garden, the rules of agricultural cultivation must be observed, preventive spraying is carried out.
This significantly reduces the risk of insects in the garden, allows you to do without the use of toxic "chemicals", to save the harvest.
Over the years of pest control, gardeners have accumulated a large arsenal of tools that help prevent the appearance of carrot flies on the ridges, scare off the pest.
On a note! Onions can be replaced with chopped garlic cloves.
For early planting treatments, when the tops of tomatoes have not yet grown, and there is no grass, solutions of hot pepper, mustard powder, wood ash are used. A good "helper" for gardeners is tobacco dust, which is used to sprinkle seedlings or spray them with a prepared solution.
Gardeners use birch tar in the fight against the fly, spreading a tablespoon of the product in a bucket of water and pouring the composition on the rows on the ridges before sowing the seeds. Pouring carrots from a carrot fly can be done with a solution of ammonia, the proportions are the same as when preparing a solution with tar. But the composition is used carefully, since ammonia is also an additional feeding of plants with nitrogen.
To prepare and use garlic tincture against carrot fly, you need:
You can scare off adult garden flies from the beds with the help of naphthalene, the smell of which is not tolerated by the pest. To do this, using a nail calcined on a fire, they make many holes in half-liter plastic bottles. Place 1 tablet of naphthalene in each container and close with a stopper. An impromptu sachet is laid out in the aisle of carrots. When exposed to sunlight, the plastic will heat up and the naphthalene will give off an odor.
Naphthalene, garlic tincture and a bed of carrots
Table salt is capable of destroying the larvae of the pest. The folk remedy should be prepared and used as follows:
During the laying of carrot insect eggs, between the rows and near the plants, the soil is treated with dried wood ash sifted through a sieve. Effectively proved itself in the fight against pests and tobacco dust.
You can water the beds with a liquid solution. Prepare it like this: thoroughly stir a glass of ash in a bucket of water. In addition, such a composition will fertilize the planting.
In summer, gardeners are troubled by flying insects that spoil the plantings. To combat them, vegetation with a deterrent property is used. For example, it can be wormwood. A pungent-scented product that helps eliminate pests from carrot beds.
A decoction is prepared from wormwood: 1000 grams of chopped grass is added to 10 liters of boiling water. Put on fire and boil for another 20 minutes. When the broth cools down, strain it. The grass can be spread between the beds.
The concentrated solution is diluted 1: 8 and carrot plantings are sprayed in the evening. For strength, a little crushed laundry soap is added to it. In terms of effectiveness, this tool is inferior to chemicals, but it is safe for humans.
In a pharmacy kiosk, you can buy mustard powder and prepare a composition for spraying plants on its basis. It is actual to use it during the period when the carrot fly actively lays eggs in the ground. It was at this time that the planting was watered with a liquid solution with powder. Add 50 grams of powder mixture to a bucket of water. Also, the beds with carrots can be sprinkled with mustard dry.
Onions and garlic have a strong aroma thanks to phytoncides. Because of this quality, they were used in the fight against harmful garden insects. Therefore, it makes sense to plant bulbous or garlic beds between carrot beds.
With their smell, they scare away carrot flies from plants. By using mixed plantings, you can get good yields of both crops.
Garlic extract effectively fights pests. At the end of the last spring month, carrot tops are treated with infusion. Spraying in May is carried out every fifth to seventh day.
The carrot fly lays its eggs for 1.5-2 months. Therefore, irrigation of carrot beds continues to be done while the growing season lasts for the crop. Consequently, the threat to plants from the carrot fly lasts a long time.
On a note! After a heavy rain, the effect of active garlic and bulbous phytoncides is significantly reduced, so re-treatment is required.
The infusion is prepared as follows: boil 5 liters of water. Put 500 grams of garlic onions in a saucepan and leave for 24 hours. It is not necessary to remove the cover scales, since they affect harmful insects with their high toxicity. Dilute the resulting infusion with 15 liters of water. Add 50-100 grams of soap crushed on a fine grater to it.
To scare away carrot flies from garden plants, an infusion prepared on the basis of tomato tops is used. To prepare the spray liquid, the aboveground green part of the tomato plants is finely chopped. A bucket of boiling water will need 4 kg of the prepared mass.
The crushed components are simmered on the fire for 20 minutes, and then allowed to brew for 5-6 hours. To the cooled solution add 30-40 ml of liquid soap and spray the planting of carrots. The remaining tomato tops can be spread between the rows of plants.
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No matter how hard summer residents try to do without chemicals, insecticides have to be used in case of mass invasions of pests. The use of "chemistry" presupposes strict adherence to dosages, adherence to instructions, adherence to the timing of treatments. Both strong and weak concentrations are dangerous (insects develop resistance to the drug, which complicates the fight).
On a note! With proper use, the accumulation of harmful substances in root crops is excluded, there is no deterioration in the taste of carrots.
"Provotox", "Bazudin" are suitable for soil cultivation, and preparations "Sochva", "Fitoverm" will help to get rid of the carrot fly from biological means. Application of biological insecticides:
Insect repellent Karate
Do not forget about the rules of carrot care, adherence to agricultural techniques.
There are fewer problems with vegetables planted at an early date, which have time to sprout and grow stronger by the mass flight of the carrot fly.
On a note! Carrot varieties and hybrids that are relatively resistant to pest damage: Nantes 4, Olympus, Flakke, Nantik resistafly F1, Perfection, Calgary F1.
But we must remember that absolutely resistant varieties of culture that are not affected by the fly do not exist. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying and follow the recommendations of agronomists.
The carrot fly is a dangerous and viable pest that feeds on carrots at all stages of its existence - from cultivation to storage. In order to resist its spread, preventive measures should be taken, the condition of the plants should be monitored, all agricultural techniques should be followed and advice on storing carrots should be followed.
Sprinkle the ground where the carrots grow with a mixture of ash, ground pepper and tobacco and embed it in the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm
Before sowing, sprinkle carrot seeds in a cloth, moisten them with kerosene, rub between your palms and rinse thoroughly in running water
Fighting carrot flies using biological agents is a compromise between efficiency and safety. The drug "Aktofit" is used against the pest: only 10 ml is diluted in 5 liters of water. With the trained composition, you need to spray the beds with carrots (5 liters is enough for 1 hundred square meters of land).
Biologics act more slowly than chemical insecticides. But they are safe for health, because they do not contain toxic substances.
Like many pests, this beetle flies are very small in size - oh, how difficult it is to notice a 4 mm insect without special equipment. Adult insects have a small brown head, a black body with a white fluff and oblong wings. This insect flies, therefore it prefers to eat not only carrots, and this is the danger, because often spices grow next to this culture, which are also not immune from the pest. Fly larvae are even smaller in size - white, up to 0.5 mm, more like worms, since they have no legs. These babies are the biggest pests, destroying the crop cleanly. Carrot fly control should start exactly at this stage, and it usually occurs in the spring, or at the beginning of summer, and also at the end of the warm season.
What does it look like carrot fly - photo.
What to doso that carrot fly did not appear on the site?
In warm climates and high humidity, these insects begin to lay eggs - they can be found at the base of the leaf of a plant, especially a young one. It is these conditions that are favorable for reproduction, so one of the ways how to avoid carrot flies, is the right choice of landing site. It is best to plant the culture in a dry place where water does not stagnate, then it will make no sense for flies to lay larvae on them. In addition, you should follow these rules:
In this way. you can, if not completely get rid of, then at least prevent the appearance of these pests. But if you have already found a fly in the garden, then you should know how to scare off a carrot fly... As a rule, in this matter, farmers are divided into two camps - some use only natural carrot fly remedieswhile others prefer chemicals for carrot fly... In the early stages, as well as during the time when the crop has already begun, it really makes sense to try to poison this pest with safer methods from carrot fly... However, in advanced cases, it is worth using only chemicals that will be more effective.
How to deal with carrot fly folk remedies? There are many different recipes for this.
Processing carrots from carrot fly is not limited exclusively to folk remedies. Chemicals have also proven themselves very well.
How to process carrots from carrot fly, if folk recipes do not help in any way? There are several proven drugs:
How to poison a carrot fly - the choice is yours. Of course, chemical preparations are considered the most effective, the resistance to which in these insects is minimal. So knowing what poison carrot flyYou can easily deal with this pest.
I do not thin out the carrots, as I plant them on strips of toilet paper. My bed is 1 m wide, which means you need 40 strips. I cut a roll 10 m long, cut into 10 pieces of 1 m, and cut each into 4 strips.
It turns out 40 strips 2 cm wide. I glue the seeds on a starch paste: I dip a cotton pad into the paste and touch it on the paper 4-5 times, then poke the seeds with a match 4-5 times - and on the paper. It turns out quickly and easily. When I glue the strips, I hang them on the backs of the chairs, and when they dry, I put them in a bag.
I glue in winter in my spare time. But in the summer, when there is a lot of work, I have no problems with carrots. I think this method will help a lot. Did you find it difficult? No, it only seems to be. And when you collect 20 buckets of purest carrots in the fall, all difficulties will be immediately forgotten!
I put the washed carrots for storage, and keep them for five minutes in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. I cut off the top by 1 cm so that it does not germinate, and be sure to tip by 2 cm - then the roots will not deteriorate. I dry it on the street, put it in boxes - and in the cellar. It is stored until the next harvest, and not a single carrot is lost!
© Tatiana Khalikova Nizhnevartovsk
In order not to attract the carrot fly to the beds, the carrots need to be watered infrequently. Getting rid of a fly is very difficult. Much depends on the condition of the soil and on the thickening of the plantings on it. In order not to be left without a crop in the fall and the work was not in vain, I spray the seedlings with an insecticidal agent. I do it in the evening or in the morning.
Now everyone buys oranges, tangerines. Peel the zest, chop, dry and put in a jar until spring. In the spring, sow the carrots and, as soon as the shoots appear, sprinkle the garden with citrus peels. The fly flies to the smell of carrot tops, and the crusts drown out this smell - and the fly simply does not find the carrot bed. That's the whole secret.
I have been using this method for several years now. My carrots are large, clean, I collect eight buckets from the garden. I put the harvest in boxes, cover it with a newspaper and store it in the basement. The newspaper absorbs excess moisture, and the carrots are perfectly stored until spring.
Die Methode zur Abwehr der Karottenfliege von Tatiana Khalakova hat bei mir
funktioniert.Das Hochbeet ist ca. 80cm hoch und in der Nähe von Frankfurt / Main.
One of the features of female carrot flies is that they fly almost at the very ground, without rising above 30-40 cm above the surface. With this information, I decided to fence around the perimeter a bed with carrots with a net, which is used to protect the premises from flies and mosquitoes, it is also called mosquito net. To do this, I drove the posts in the corners and on the long sides (every 1.5 m) and attached the mesh to them with strips so that it was 60 cm high.Using plastic wrap instead of the mesh is undesirable, since this worsens the ventilation of the garden.
Of course, the insect protection made it a little difficult to care for the plants.But the carrot fly could not reach my plantings! Already, we are selectively plucking root crops for consumption. All of them, like a selection, are clean, without a single hint of the "work" of pests.
To prevent the carrot fly from spoiling the carrots, I plant fragrant onion sets next to it. It is enough to sow it on one side of the carrot bed, with a distance in the row of about 10 cm. And if you plant the onion from both sides, then you don't have to worry about the red-haired beauty at all: she is provided with protection from this pest. I mulch onion plantings with compost.
I know that the carrot fly has two egg-laying periods: a couple of weeks from the end of May and the whole of August. At this time, I protect plants from insects like this. Once every 5-7 days, I sprinkle the aisles with dry mustard or tobacco ash (1 tablespoon per 1 square meter), and I also spread fresh wormwood grass in the garden (as there is).
And most importantly: I fence the beds with carrots with gauze or a mosquito net 50 cm high. Female carrot flies fly low and cannot penetrate the fence.
Many summer residents do not know how to cope with the carrot fly - the most dangerous pest of carrots, which, in the event of a massive invasion, can ruin the entire crop. I tried different methods of struggle and gradually settled on one and only one - the most effective.
Several times a season I pour sand mixed with kerosene into the aisles. I take about 300 ml of kerosene on a bucket of sand, mix the ingredients thoroughly in a large basin and sprinkle the plantings with this mixture. I carry out the processing after each thinning of the carrots, since at this time they begin to exude a strong aroma that attracts a fly.
I don't leave the plucked-out plants in the garden, but take them away.
I also add kerosene sand 1 time between thinning and a couple of weeks after the last. For 4 years of using this method, I have never noticed a carrot in the garden with signs of fly damage.
But my friend, who lives in the neighboring region, 200 km from me, is successfully fighting carrot fly with the help of ordinary wormwood. She pre-crushes the plants and places carrots in the aisles.
However, this technique did not help me at all. On-i true, the effectiveness of the method depends on the mass distribution of the pest in a particular region. For some reason, our Voronezh carrot fly did not like kerosene.
We read that the onion planted next to the carrot scares away pests from it. They did so, but the carrot fly still severely damaged the seedlings. Why didn't the protection work?
Because you sowed onions and carrots at the same time, and, apparently, when the carrots rose and grew, the onion gave only a few feathers. As a result, the bed only smelled of carrots and attracted a carrot fly. The fact is that the onion does not destroy the fly, but only deceives it, creating the impression that the bed is onion. If carrots develop better than onions, pests perceive the ridge as carrot.
Therefore, if you want to get rid of carrot flies, plant onions 1.5-2 weeks earlier. If you want to avoid both carrot and onion flies, apply Bazudin, Pochin, Mukhoed and other soil insecticides when sowing. Then you will not need to mask the garden.
Carrot seeds are now on sale, which are treated with some kind of chemistry against carrot flies. They say that the plantings then really remain untouched by this stubborn pest. But only if the fly does not want to eat such a processed carrot, who knows what, then who said that I would?
At the same time, I, too, for a long time did not manage to protect the crop from attacks, although I used many folk remedies.
And all my works ended with one thing - cutting out the moves made by the fly from the root crops. And so for 20 years. And as a result, one simple thing helped - a significant shift in the time of sowing seeds. Specifically - at the beginning of June. It's a pleasure to work: I planted it, watered it, covered it with foil and didn't fit for two weeks. As the sprouts appear, I remove the shelter, water it again, and then the usual care (unless I do thinning, since I plant granulated seeds 3 cm apart).
And there is no need to be afraid of the fly, since by that time the trail had already disappeared. In this case, it is also necessary to harvest later, at the end of September. But that's just not scary, because it's Indian summer. The weather is dry, warm, just what you need to dry root crops.
By the way, now my whole carrot grows even, like in the picture, but before there were a lot of tailed ones.
I do not use pesticides in the garden, preferring to fight harmful insects with ecologically safe folk methods.
So, from carrot flies, moths, flies, winter scoops, I cover early (before cherry blossoms) crops of carrots with non-woven material. Or I sow carrots later (at the end of May - at the beginning of June), when the activity of insects decreases. I place onions next to the carrot plantings, the smell of which is not to the liking of pests. I spray the beds with infusions of tomato tops, citrus peels, as well as burdock, chamomile, yarrow, salt solution (10%). I water by sprinkling - pests cannot lay eggs on wet leaves.
I process against the bear
carrots with infusions of mustard and spicy
pepper. I stick alder branches in the garden.
I plant chrysanthemums and marigolds nearby.
I set up insect traps in
in the form of dung heaps, which I then remove and burn.
From slugs, I mulch the beds with prickly needles, crushed eggshells, sprinkle the aisles with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash. I use bait from watermelon and melon peels, beer containers.
I put mice and rats away from carrot beds by planting anise and mint on them, sticking black elderberry branches between the roots. Every year I grow carrots in a new place - the crop rotation also helps to avoid many diseases. In the fall, in order to destroy gall nematodes, wireworms and other insect larvae wintering in the ground, I dig up the soil. I fill it with lime, ammonia fertilizers, 20-30 g per 1 sq. m. I try to prevent the growth of weeds, which are a refuge for pests. I always remove plant debris from the site.
The most common and unpleasant pest in carrots is the carrot fly.
Gnarled root crops with winding grooves, an unpleasant odor and rotten areas are the result of her work. The main methods of control are agrotechnical.
You cannot plant carrots and their "relatives" in one place for several years in a row: celery, parsley, parsnips.
After weeding, thinning the seedlings and collecting part of the crop, the tops should not be left next to the garden bed - the smell of the torn tops attracts new pests.
It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil in the aisles, choosing dry, sunny weather for work - this will lead to the death of prostrate and larvae.
Thinning of seedlings should be done as early as possible, before the start of the mass summer of the fly at the end of May.
When harvesting an early harvest, you need to pull out not the individual, largest carrots, but the entire row. Otherwise, the pests will penetrate through the holes formed in the soil and infect the remaining plants.
In June, twice with a break of 10 days, you should water the carrots with a salt solution (1 tablespoon per 10-liter bucket of water).
It is necessary to plant calendula and marigolds in the aisles - the larvae do not tolerate their root secretions.
Seeing that some shoots on the stem appeared to have constrictions of dark brown
gray color, I wondered what it could be. A neighbor - an experienced gardener - said that this is a sign of brown spot, which can destroy plants. On adult plants, the disease is noticeable primarily on the leaves - light yellow spots appear there, which darken over time. On diseased testis plants, long yellow-brown spots are observed at the bottom of the stem and at the base of leaf petioles. These parts of the plant dry up, and then it itself dies.
Having learned how dangerous brown spotting is, I removed the damaged seedlings and burned them. Then she treated the plants with a drug to increase immunity. After watering and rain, I began to loosen the aisles to reduce soil moisture. Periodically sprayed plantings with celandine broth. To do this, I took 600 g of chopped celandine, poured 3 liters of water, brought to a boil. She insisted for 2 hours, filtered, added 3 liters of water and sprayed the carrots. I also used an infusion of nettle. She crushed 700 g of raw materials, poured 7 liters of water, insisted for a day, filtered and also sprayed. I did not notice any more signs of brown spot.
Dear readers, don't leave me in trouble. Give advice on what to do with the carrot fly. I don't have a single good root crop - the whole crop is spoiled! I read that it is necessary to lay out orange peels and wormwood twigs in the beds. I applied all this, but nothing worked. What else can you do?
Previously, I planted legumes from moles in all the beds, and they were not there. This summer, for the first time, the beans did not work. Poured tar, ammonia into the holes - nothing helps. What to do? And there are a lot of mice.
I try not to use chemistry in the garden. If a fly attacks the carrots (the leaf becomes all in a hole), I use the following method of struggle. I harvest orange peels in advance, dry them and chop them well. As soon as the shoots of carrots appear, sprinkle them with an orange treat. I do this procedure 1-2 times a month. The smell of orange overpowers the carrot, and the fly does not land on the beds.
We can give good advice instead of concluding our story. I adopted this method of protection against carrot flies from abroad. It is a little more expensive, but no chemistry is required, and in the end you will save a lot of time.
Biologists have noticed that the carrot fly flies rather low above the soil surface, therefore, a small fine-mesh net can be pulled over the plants, which would not interfere with the growth of carrot tops, but also would not allow ovipositor. The fences should be no more than forty centimeters high (and also closed with a net). They need to be installed around the carrot bed and tightened with a regular mosquito net. This is an elementary and proven method that requires little or no cost.
So, we described the planting rules, and the rules of prevention and gentle control measures, and chemical ones, and even talked about arranging the mesh, which, by the way, is easy to remove and carry out any work with the soil, including watering. You just have to take all this into account and grow a gorgeous harvest of carrots. But if you do not understand something, ask questions in the comments, we will definitely answer them!