By Amy Grant
Gooseberries are cool weather berries that can be eaten fresh or turned into delicious jams or jellies. All well and good, but how do you know when to harvest gooseberries? Click this article to find out when and how to harvest gooseberries.
By Amy Grant
Gooseberry bushes can become tangled and unhealthy without pruning. The question is how to prune a gooseberry bush. Check out the article that follows to find out how and when to prune gooseberries in the garden. Click here to learn more.
By Teo Spengler
You don't have to buy new gooseberry plants to increase your crop. Growing gooseberry from cuttings is inexpensive and easy. The following article provides information about propagating gooseberry cuttings. Click here to learn more.
By Kristi Waterworth
Not every gardener is acquainted with the gooseberry, but those who are will never forget them. However, when you find gooseberry maggots, a little know-how from this article can help.
By Kathee Mierzejewski
Gooseberry bushes are really cold hardy. Anywhere you have fruit plants that won't grow because of the temperature, you will probably have no trouble growing gooseberries. Learn more here.
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It is a good idea to plant currant bushes in fall or until spring, while avoiding frost spells.
If you’re planting in spring, water more regularly during the first months, because your shrub will need more water to develop its roots over the summer months.
Whatever the exposure, favor rich soil and feel free to add soil conditioner to the ground when planting.
|Genus:||Itea (eye-TEE-uh) (Info)|
|Species:||virginica (vir-JIN-ih-kuh) (Info)|
|Additional cultivar information:||(PP10988 aka Sprich)|
|Registered or introduced:||1999|
Requires consistently moist soil do not let dry out between waterings
USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)
USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)
USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)
USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)
USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)
USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds
Allow seedheads to dry on plants remove and collect seeds
This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:
Elizabeth City, North Carolina
East Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania
West Chester, Pennsylvania
On Jan 3, 2014, Rickwebb from Downingtown, PA wrote:
This is the second most sold cultivar in southeast PA after 'Henry's Garnet.' It has smaller, more narrow leaves and a greater number of more slender stems than the mother species. It is a little shorter growing, usually to about 5 ft.
On Dec 10, 2013, jazzy1okc from Oklahoma City, OK wrote:
If planted in good, rich soil, where it has shade from about 10 a.m. on, good air circulation, regular watering, and mulch this plant grows well in OKC. Its scent is lovely!
On Apr 28, 2013, plant_it from Valparaiso, IN wrote:
A versatile shrub for sun and shade. Specimen, group or mass. Shrub borders, open woodland gardens, foundations or hedges. Mass for a shrubby ground cover effect. Naturalizes well in wild or informal areas. Also a good selection for wet locations such as low spots or pond/stream margins.
This Virginia sweetspire cultivar is an extremely compact, rounded, deciduous shrub which typically grows to 2' tall with a slightly larger spread. Features fragrant, tiny white flowers borne in cylindrical racemes (3-4" long) which cover the shrub with bloom in late spring to early summer. Oval, dark green leaves (1-3" long) turn attractive shades of orange, red and purple in fall, often persisting on the shrub until December. LITTLE HENRY is a dwarf version of the native species, with supe. read more rior flowers and better fall color than the species.
Easily grown in average, medium to wet soil in full sun to part shade. Adaptable to shade. Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers moist, humusy soils. Promptly remove root suckers to prevent any unwanted spread.
Attracts butterflies in Spring. Deers don't care for it. Fire resistant.
On Jun 6, 2012, Ljw1970 from Indian Springs Village, AL wrote:
I just purchased this wonderful shrub. My sis in law had 2 in large pots and I fell in love with them. I bought and removed from original container and potted in a very large container. It has been 3 days since I potted it. It is in morning full sun. The leaves are now turning yellow and falling off. What does this mean and how can I save it.
On Jun 30, 2011, BoPo from Milwaukee, WI (Zone 5b) wrote:
Thrives in full sun in zone 5b, rich but clayish soil. I have him close to a fountain. Wonderful shrub, nice flowers mid summer and spectacular fall coloring. Little or no maintenance. Slow to wake up in spring.
On Apr 23, 2010, efjaykay from Kitchener,
I planted ten of these last season and they did very well. So far this spring, they look dead, although if you cut into a branch, it is still green. Are they normally very slow in budding? I have had no experience with them and am at a loss to know what to do.
I purchased several of these in spring 2008 to brighten a shady spot in my back yard. Last year they were beautiful- very full blossoms and foilage, quite enjoyable. This year they barely bloomed and were very sparse even though the weather was good, not near as hot and dry as last year. I was told to try adding hollytone to the soil and that next spring they should bounce back. In the meantime I have already lost 2 of 9. Does anyone else have any other suggestions or experiences with this plant?
On Sep 29, 2008, wandygirl from Brookfield, CT wrote:
I question the "may be a noxious weed or invasive" label. Itea virginica is a native shrub and in CT is highly recommended as an alternative to the truly invasive winged euonymous (burning bush). By definition, a plant that is native cannot be labeled "invasive." It should be noted that this plant has the potential to form large colonies if it is given the conditions it prefers.
On Sep 29, 2008, OTNB from Orange Park, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:
I'm still out about this one..When I first planted 3 plants several years ago, they seemed to do pretty well they had blossoms the first couple of years, but very sparse. They are planted where they do get partial sun/shade and they keep multiplying, but even with all the rain we had this year, they did not bloom at all.
On Sep 29, 2008, Sonshine445 from London, Ontario,
I planted an Itea 'Little Henry' last year and am very pleased with it. This spring the flowers were scant because of a late frost, but it began to color up for fall in August, and last year, the leaves stayed on the plant for an extended period, some right into spring. The leaf color is rosy-purple and it makes a great accent for yellow foliaged plants. Highly recommended.
On Jun 4, 2008, Pamgarden from Central, VA (Zone 7b) wrote:
Very nice size in the landscape, round and full and covered in pendulas white flowers that develop over several weeks in spring and draw bees and other small flying insects, but butterflies didn't seem all that interested. There was a slight aroma to the flowers, but not the fragrant plant the name suggests. Looks great among other shrubs that flower at the same time like spirea.
On Jul 25, 2006, aprilwillis from Missouri City, TX (Zone 9a) wrote:
I love this shrub! Here in Houston w/ the intensity of the sun it really requires a lot of protection from the sun- which I could not give it! Had to dig it up and give it my daughter who has a much shadier yard. But it is beautiful and adds great fall color.
On Apr 11, 2006, CarolynBF from Florissant, MO (Zone 5b) wrote:
I am very happy with this ever-changing shrub! In summer it has soft, touchable, drooping white flower clusters that remind me of caterpillars. Later these dry and turn brown, at which time they can be left on the shrub for textural effect or deadheaded. Then in the fall, the leaves turn scarlet and red. I highly recommend this one.
Fruit production begins after Amla plants are 7-8 years old. In the beginning, the fruit is light green, and as soon as it gets mature it turns green to yellow. The highest production of fruits is in February. Mature fruits are hard and do not fall from the slightest stumble. Use the long bamboo with a hook to harvest the fruit.
Common insect caterpillars, mealy bugs, aphids, and other garden insects can damage phyllanthus emblica.
Read also: Growing Blueberry in a container, How to grow Raspberry in a container. Growing celery in containers. Cantaloupe growing and care tips. The best filler plants for container gardening. Top 10 fruits to grow in containers. 10 best vegetables to grow in pots. How to grow anthurium plant.
Most berries will need large pots, both to accommodate the roots and to balance the mature-size top of the plants. Large pots with large plants can get very heavy. If you think you will be moving the containers, either indoors for the winter or around the patio, place them on a sturdy plant dolly. Of course, they will also need plenty of drainage holes.
If you plan on leaving your plant outdoors for the winter, choose a container in a material that can handle your weather. For cold, frosty zones, wood, heavy-duty plastic, or the newer resin and fiberglass materials are good choices. Most will be labeled as frost-tolerant if they are.
Birds and other creatures love berries, too. Most gardeners will need to provide some type of protection over the fruit as it starts to ripen. Bird netting or cages built with chicken wire are popular choices. Make sure the netting is held up off the fruit, or the birds will reach right through. And don't wait until you see the fruits ripening to cover them. Birds have different tastes than people do.