Top dressing of tomatoes after planting in the ground

Even experienced gardeners will not be able to say for sure what fertilizer is best to feed tomatoes. There are quite a lot of recipes for dressing and how to use them. Someone uses only organic fertilizers, someone prefers mineral fertilizers, and some use them, alternating one with the other.

Beginners have many questions about how many times and during what period of plant development it needs to be fed. Which method is more effective - spraying or watering at the root. And what is the most suitable and beneficial fertilizer composition. Let's try to help in solving all these issues.

So that fertilizers do not harm the plants, they must be applied strictly at a certain stage of crop growth. Correctly selected composition of feeding is also of great importance. It should contain only the nutrients that tomatoes need at the moment.

Most fertilizers are applied at two important stages - planting tomato seedlings in open ground and the beginning of flowering and ovary formation. It happens that two dressings are enough for the entire summer season, but you can fertilize the plants regularly (2 times a month).

The fertilization schedule depends on several factors: weather conditions and temperature indicators, soil composition, "health" of seedlings and much more. The main thing is to give the plants the missing substances and elements in time.

The first feeding of tomatoes after planting the soil

Approximately 15-20 days after the seedlings have appeared in open beds, you can carry out the first top dressing of tomatoes. During this short time, young plants managed to take root and began to gain strength. At the moment, tomato bushes need nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Among the proposed fertilizer options, the basis is 10 liters of water, to which the necessary components are added:

  • 500 milliliters of mullein infusion and 20-25 grams of nitrofask.
  • 2 liter cans of nettle or comfrey infusion.
  • 25 grams of nitrofask.
  • 500 milliliters of bird droppings, 25 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium sulfate.
  • 1 tablespoon of nitrofask, 500 milliliters of mullein, 3 grams of boric acid and manganese sulfate.
  • 1 liter of liquid mullein, 30 grams of superphosphate, 50 grams of wood ash, 2-3 grams of boric acid and potassium permanganate.
  • 500 milliliters of liquid mullein, about 100 grams of ash, 100 grams of yeast, about 150 milliliters of whey, 2-3 liter can of nettles. The infusion is prepared within 7 days.

Each tomato bush will need about 500 milliliters of liquid fertilizer.

Top dressing of tomatoes during budding, flowering and fruit setting

This group includes recipes containing phosphorus and potassium. At the heart of every recipe is a large 10 liter bucket of water:

  • Wood ash in the volume of a half-liter jar.
  • 25 grams of superphosphate, ash - 2 tablespoons.
  • 25 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium sulfate.
  • 1 tablespoon of magnesium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of potassium nitrate.
  • 1 teaspoon potassium monophosphate.
  • potassium humate - 1 teaspoon of powder, nitrofask - 20 grams.
  • 1 glass of yeast mixture (100 grams of yeast and sugar, 2.5 water) + water + 0.5 liters of wood ash. The yeast mixture should "ferment" for 7 days in a warm place.

Each tomato plant requires from 500 milliliters to 1 liter of ready-to-eat food. The nutrient mixture is poured over the root of the plant.

Along with the application of fertilizers by the irrigation method, you can also use special useful spraying.

For example, a sweet sprinkling based on sugar and boric acid is necessary for tomato bushes during the period of active flowering. This mixture will attract a large number of insects, which will pollinate the flowering plants and promote better ovary formation. A solution is prepared from 4 grams of boric acid, 200 grams of sugar and 2 liters of hot water. It is necessary to spray vegetables with a cooled solution with a temperature of about 20 degrees.

In hot and dry weather, flowers on tomato bushes may crumble. You can save them from mass fall by spraying. Add 5 grams of boric acid to a large bucket of water.

The active ripening of tomato fruits begins around the second half of July. It is from this moment that watering and feeding stops, so that the green mass does not build up on the plants, and all the forces went to the ripening of the tomatoes.


Top dressing of tomatoes after planting in the ground

Fertilizing tomatoes is a matter with which gardeners do not have complete certainty. How often to feed tomatoes? What to feed: organic, mineral water or alternate? When to water at the root and when to spray? There are a lot of questions, and each gardener solves them in his own way. There is no universal scheme or schedule for feeding tomatoes.

The good news is that there are a lot of recipes for nutritious mixtures with which you can feed tomatoes. And you will definitely find the most convenient, most suitable, most profitable option for you. And we will try to help you.

We all know that a plant's need for a particular substance depends on the stage of its development. And feeding should be done taking into account this need, otherwise you can only harm.

Therefore, we divide all options for feeding tomatoes into two groups. In the first, we include top dressing immediately after planting in the ground. The second is feeding during flowering and fruit setting.

You can carry out only two dressings per season - one at the beginning of each of the above stages of development. You can feed the tomatoes regularly, every two weeks. The feeding scheme depends on your capabilities, on the condition of the soil in your area, on the air temperature outside the window, on the quality of seedlings, etc. etc. However, we strongly recommend that you follow the “staging principle” and give your plants exactly what they need at the moment. This means, before flowering, you can feed with any dressings from both the first and the second group, and with the appearance of the first buds, you can use top dressing recipes exclusively from the second group.

How to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground?

If you have the opportunity, then take a pound (one third) of a cow (horse), flatbread, dilute it in a ten-liter bucket and let it stand for seven days. During this time, your tomatoes will take root and then feed them by taking half a half liter jar from a bucket diluted in a bucket and once again dilute these half a liter in a bucket of clean water and pour over a ladle on the chicken.

And I also do this: I mow the grass for mulching and put some of the grass in a bucket, fill it with hot water and also let it stand for a week, then dilute it and water the plantings.

And of course, I mulch the weakest plants except for grass - with waste, such as potato peel, cabbage stalks and bastila, peel of any vegetables. I put it under the root under the mulch. They decompose giving off carbon dioxide and the plant becomes strong. Like this year, I planted tomatoes of varieties for the middle lane and they burned out for me - there were stalks and several leaves on the tops, I fed and buried waste under the mulch and now they stand completely with leaves and bloom, it is clear that they lag behind those who not burned out - healthy already with fruits. but survived and will bear fruit.

I usually grow tomato seedlings in wooden boxes like in the photo, front only

my wall is fixed with screws.

When the time for planting seedlings comes, I moisten the soil in the box, remove the front wall, and carefully cut out a piece of soil with a stem with a knife. Approximately 4 x 5 cm.

I lower the stem with a piece of soil into a hole with a moistened mixture of earth, humus, ash and superphosphate (1 teaspoon).

Sprinkle the stem with this mixture 2 cm above the root collar. The next day, I water it with warm rainwater along the groove around the stem and leave the planted seedlings alone for 10 days so that they adapt to the new conditions and take root.

On my garden plot, I have 4 metal barrels in which I store rainwater,

and when there is no rain, then tap. The barrels are painted black and in sunny weather the water warms up well and is used for irrigation.

There are two more barrels - one contains an infusion of chicken droppings, and the other contains an infusion of herbs.

After 10 days, I well moisten the soil around the stem and apply the first feeding with the infusion of chicken droppings - 1 liter of infusion per bucket of water, 1 liter under the stem.

After another 10 days, I feed the seedlings with herbal infusion - 1 liter of attunement for a 1 liter bucket of water under a bush.

After a week, I feed it with a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 5 g each. on a bucket of water.

When flowering begins, for better fruit setting, I spray with a solution of boric acid (1 g per 1 liter of water) with magnesium.

When carrying out dressings, you need to constantly monitor how the seedlings react to them.

I believe that it is better not to feed the seedlings a little, than to overfeed and get as a result or

lush greens instead of fruits, or even burn it.

Top dressing schedule

The frequency of application and types of fertilizers depend on the stage of development of the bush. What is suitable for seedlings is no longer needed at the stage of flowering and fruiting. Therefore, top dressing for tomatoes in the open field must be carried out according to a strict schedule.

The first feeding of tomatoes after planting in the ground

Newly planted seedlings are not fed, since any fertilization during this period can reduce the rooting process of young shoots. It is better to carry out procedures in good clear weather without precipitation.

The first feeding of tomatoes after planting in the ground should be no earlier than 15-18 days after planting the seedlings in the soil. During this period, the bushes have already taken root and began to gain strength. The most beneficial elements are potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Second and third deposit

When the bushes begin to bloom actively, a second feeding is carried out. The third time fertilization is applied when the ovaries are formed. During this period, tomatoes respond well to such compositions:

  1. Organic... Herbal infusions (dandelion, nettle), bird droppings, manure, yeast at this stage can be used independently, but it is better to alternate with ready-made mineral fertilizers.
  2. In the flowering phase, it is advisable to add superphosphate at the rate of 15 g per 10 liters of water. This increases the number of ovaries, which further affects the yield.
  3. It is good to feed tomatoes outdoors nitroammophos - 1 tbsp. l. with a slide for 10 liters of warm water. Such fertilizer can replace organic matter.

Potassium and phosphorus are important components during the period of ovary formation and further flowering. At the beginning of flowering, these substances, especially in combination with boron, calcium, iron, sulfur, enrich the bush, guarantee a bountiful harvest and good taste parameters of the fruit.

Diseases of a tomato after planting in a greenhouse

Tomatoes planted in a greenhouse can be affected by various ailments. To save the harvest, you need to know the symptoms of a particular disease and how to deal with them.

Late blight

This disease is the most common and insidious. It can be recognized by the presence of dark spots with a white outline. If you do not start treatment, then the fruits begin to rot. The disease inflicts defeat on both leaves and fruits. The transmission of infection is carried out by airborne droplets. To prevent the development of the disease, it is necessary to introduce mineral compositions in a timely manner.

To combat the disease, it is worth treating the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate before planting. Affected plants should be removed and burned. So that the rest of the bushes are not infected, they should be treated with special drugs against late blight. But how to treat tomatoes for late blight, and which remedies are the most effective, is indicated here.


This pathological process is transmitted through the soil. It can be determined by the fact that the stem begins to thin out, as a result of which the seedling dies. Blackleg is a fungal disease. To protect the seedlings, it is worth pre-cultivating the land. For these purposes, a solution of copper sulfate is excellent. The planting material also does not interfere with processing in a similar solution.

Another black leg inflicts defeat on those plants that are densely planted. To prevent fungal infection, it is worthwhile to make top dressing on time and carefully monitor the tomatoes. It may also be useful for you to find out what kind of tomatoes exist for the Urals in the greenhouse.

White spot

This is another fungal disease that affects the lower leaves. They turn brown and dry out. They also have black dots. If you start treatment in a timely manner, you can get a good result. Bordeaux liquid is used to fight.

It is still necessary to treat the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. Remove the affected plant and burn. It will also be interesting to know more about whether it is possible to plant tomatoes after tomatoes.

Fusarium wilting

This ailment can develop due to fungal infection. As a result, the root system, leaves and stem suffer. The green part of the plant begins to turn yellow, wither and dry out.

And if you cut the affected bush, you can see the characteristic bundles from the vessels. Control and prevention involves providing plants with proper lighting. Also, the bushes need regular feeding. Before planting, water the soil with a solution of copper sulfate. You may also find it helpful to learn how to properly grow tomato seedlings on the windowsill.

Growing tomatoes in soil is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. It has its own characteristics that must be taken into account by every gardener. Only then will he be able to get not only healthy bushes, but also a rich harvest.

Watch the video: Preparing a Tomato Planting Site

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