Almost all gardeners grow radishes on their backyards. It belongs to early ripening crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to planting, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. Therefore, you need to know the characteristic symptoms, be able to identify the problem and know how to cope with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient; in other cases, heavy artillery in the form of chemicals will have to be used.
The short ripening period is one of the advantages of the radish. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to the plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.
To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing complicated in them, they will take very little time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it almost guaranteed to protect the planting from unwanted guests.
There is nothing difficult in growing radishes, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.
A close inspection of the beds at least once every 4–5 days helps to detect the problem in time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and the environment. Chemicals, especially those that do not belong to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable to use for the treatment of radishes. The culture is early ripening, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.
Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. It is positively affected by soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant. A similar effect is given both by drugs purchased in the store (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But the excess nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macroelement in large doses also has one more negative consequence - radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Potassium and phosphorus strengthen the immune system. Their natural source is wood ash.
To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are etched in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin for 15–20 minutes before planting. The most common drugs are Strobi, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.
Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases
A necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest on a personal plot is crop rotation. Radish cannot be planted for 3-4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family grew before (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon). In general, if possible, they are placed as far from each other as possible. They draw the same nutrients from the soil and suffer from similar diseases. This family also includes many weeds used by pathogens as a transshipment base. Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.
Cabbage, like other crucifers, is a poor precursor and neighbor for radishes.
Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With thickened plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful for them. Proper watering is also important. Drops should be avoided on leaves and stems.
Since autumn, the garden bed is dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and pest larvae overwintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent breeding ground for them, moreover, it helps to keep the warmth necessary in cold weather.
Digging up the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil
Radish does not have any specific diseases. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases, which do not bypass any garden crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.
All Cruciferous plants suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbage. It is most dangerous for young plants. The optimum temperature for the development of the fungus is about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden temperature changes that provoke fog and / or heavy dew.
Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other Cruciferous plants.
Light green spots appear on the front side of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die off. On the seamy side, abscess-like pustules form. The leaf swells around them. When they break through, a whitish, oily-shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they have matured, outgrowths appear, reminiscent of those that are characteristic of keels. Radish can go into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something that looks like deer antlers. If you do nothing, it dries up and dies.
In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folikur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. These are, for example, a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10-15 g per 10 liters). To make the solution better adhere to the treated plants, add a little liquid soap or soap shavings (3-5 ml or 10-15 g) to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.
Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants
A specific disease that is very dangerous for all Cruciferous plants. A gardener can lose at least half of the entire crop. Quite often it disappears altogether. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by rare vitality. On those beds where the keel has shown itself, potentially infected crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can shorten this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any legumes there.
Keela is a disease that exclusively affects plants from the Cruciferous family.
On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), growths of various sizes in the form of a ball or fusiform are formed on the roots and root crops. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and lie down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.
Factors favoring the development of keels are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidity of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But you can't completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a prolonged drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is carried by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only cultivated cruciferous plants, but also wild ones (shepherd's purse, rape).
Watering the radish correctly helps to slightly reduce the damage done to the keel crop.
Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from keels at early planting. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid contamination.
No remedies have been developed for the treatment of kila at the moment. The main emphasis should be on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened, embedding sifted wood ash in it, or watered with so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the garden bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 L) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 L).
A very dangerous viral disease that can affect most garden crops. Infected specimens lag behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located in the intervals between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can be in the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die off. The veins also darken.
Radish mosaic is a viral disease, there are currently no remedies for its treatment
It is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus with the help of modern means. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as quickly as possible.
The best prevention is competent crop care and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity, timely and in the right doses by applying the necessary fertilizers. Before planting, it is recommended to pickle radish seeds in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, and ticks. We must not forget about the fight against them.
Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prophylaxis, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against the mosaic virus
A very common disease, not a single garden culture is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, reminiscent of scattered flour. If nothing is done, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black blotches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes are formed. The sheet plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.
Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless bloom that can be easily erased, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.
Most often, radish is affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus is spread by the wind, with water droplets, and by direct contact with infected and healthy plants. The yield falls by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.
For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient. Radish is sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of wood ash, sour milk or yogurt, diluted with water, decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread en masse, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew is given by Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim. From drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on the old time-tested remedies - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.
Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy the spores of pathogenic fungi
Typical symptoms appear primarily on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the inside of the leaf is covered with a continuous layer of greyish-purple bloom, reminiscent of felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.
Peronosporosis develops quickly enough, so you should not hesitate with taking measures
To prevent the development of the disease, during the growing season, radishes are sprayed twice with boric acid diluted in water (10-15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. The seeds are soaked in a solution of Bud, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.
Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill disease-causing fungi
Brown spots spread on root crops, quickly tightening with a layer of fluffy gray-gray bloom with small black specks. The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. High humidity combined with low air temperature contributes to the development of the disease.
It is impossible to eat any fruits affected by gray rot
To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically introduced into the soil, the plants are powdered with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with mustard powder or iodine diluted with water (50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters, respectively). Several crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the garden with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.
Marigolds are not only a beautiful, but also a very useful plant.
If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water, take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, the drugs Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair are used. But this no longer guarantees success.
Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not susceptible to it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color spread around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if crumbled. Radish growth slows down, the petioles are deformed.
Adult radish most often suffers from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root crop formation.
Risk factors - high humidity, heat, mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant debris, unripe manure, remains in seeds from infected plants, maintaining its viability for 2-3 seasons. For disinfection, the planting material is immersed in hot (45-50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes immediately before planting.
To prevent infection, 10-12 days after the emergence of seedlings, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infestation, radishes can be saved by treating them with Binoram or Phytolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.
Phytolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity
Fungal disease affecting mainly young seedlings. Adult, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings fall on the ground under their own weight.The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite possible to prevent the appearance of a black leg.
The black leg can deprive the gardener of the radish harvest already at the stage of germination
The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperatures and lack of light negatively affect plant immunity.
Seeds must undergo pre-planting preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden bed 3-4 days before planting the radish is spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. Crushed charcoal or chalk is poured to the bases of the stems of the seedlings that have appeared, the plants themselves are powdered with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion of onion peel or marigold greens.
Infusion of onion peels is an effective means of preventing black leg
Finding that several plants have become infected, sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, introducing granules of Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Barrier in the process.
There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that infect exclusively Cruciferous plants, and omnivores that attack most other garden crops.
Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover considerable distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, under fallen leaves. Females of the cruciferous flea lay their eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them devour the roots of the plants. Insects do not like heat and high humidity; in such weather, their activity decreases sharply.
In the heat, especially if it rains frequently, the activity of the cruciferous flea is sharply reduced.
In order to scare off the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where radish shoots have appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden by tightening it with any air-permeable white covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated with infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato tops or potatoes, diluted in water with vinegar (25-30 ml of essence per 10 liters) every 5-7 days. Along the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.
The cruciferous flea does not tolerate the smell of vinegar
In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning show themselves in the best way. An alternative is a flea shampoo for pets (40–50 ml per 10 l). You can also catch bugs manually by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached in a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.
Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatch at the end of June, the second in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to eat the plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the leaves of the radish.
There is hardly a gardener who has never seen the whitewash butterfly, also known as the cabbage.
When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order not to allow them to lay eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a pungent characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the garden bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops of lavender or any citrus essential oil to the water for irrigation. Traps are hung next to it - cut-off plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is obtained with fly sticky tape.
Whitefish caterpillars can eat a plant in a matter of days.
Experienced gardeners advise tricking butterflies by scattering pieces of eggshell around the garden. Their insects are mistaken for congeners and fly further, being sure that the place is already taken.
Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmix, Sumi-Alpha, Aktellik. You can make them leave the garden by dusting the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.
It is capable of causing very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity occurs in the second half of May and early June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting culture. Females lay eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them out from the inside, severely damaging the emerging roots, then turn into petioles. The plant withers, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.
Adults of the cabbage fly do not harm plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be dealt with.
To scare away the cabbage fly, the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and a dry bay leaf crushed to a powdery state 3–5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander along the perimeter and in the aisles. Materials with a rather coarse texture are used as mulch - wood shavings, sawdust. Also, all measures are applicable to scare off white butterflies.
Cabbage fly larvae are introduced into plant tissues through the roots
In the event of a mass invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt have recommended themselves in the best way. They also do not tolerate ammonia and vinegar. For 10 liters of water, 5 ml is enough.
It is very difficult not to notice the pest on the radish. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. Females lay eggs on leaves, hatched from them individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or early May, the period of their activity lasts until August. Radish gets maximum damage in hot dry weather. Bed bugs feed on plant sap. Where mechanical damage was inflicted by them, wounds remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.
It is very difficult not to notice a cruciferous bug on a plant.
The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant around the perimeter of a garden bed with radish or periodically spray it with infusion of greenery. A good effect of dates are tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and spread out in the aisles.
Tansy planted nearby will effectively protect the radish garden from cruciferous ticks
Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them by hand. To make them go away, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusions of chamomile, onion husks. The most effective chemicals are Phosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.
An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about its larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf plates turn pale and dry. Insects wake up from hibernation as soon as the air warms up to 10 ° C, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum harm to radishes is caused in the heat with a prolonged absence of precipitation.
Cabbage moth is a very nondescript butterfly
Folk remedies in the fight against a pest do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can - slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talkord. Adult butterflies are scared away using the methods recommended for whitewash control.
Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective
For some reason, they also have a special love for the color yellow. This can be used by making traps from pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade, smeared with something sticky and taking a long time to dry.
The butterfly is dirty yellow in color with vague brown spots and strokes on the wings. It is nocturnal, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissue from the leaves, leaving grooves - the gateway for all kinds of infections and other pests. Characteristic lesions are especially noticeable on the wrong side of the sheet.
It is problematic to notice the appearance of the cabbage firefly - it is active mainly at night
Adults are destroyed using traps. A light source is placed in a cut plastic bottle, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. The best effect against caterpillars is given by drugs Anometrin, Ripkord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help a lot, but they do not have any negative effect on the fireball eggs. It is recommended to treat radish and soil in the garden with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.
The caterpillars of the cabbage fire can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this.
The caterpillar of the rape sawfly is greenish-gray or olive green with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. The adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron shade, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats up the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. Radish dries and dies, root crops are not formed. A gardener who does nothing can lose 80–95% of the total crop.
The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a special predilection for rapeseed, but also does not disdain radish.
For prophylaxis, before planting, radish seeds are soaked in a solution of Karate or Actellik for 10-15 minutes. Adults are scared away from planting with Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for processing plants and soil, you can use extracts of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars effectively destroy Mospilan, Kinmix, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings with soda ash or baking soda diluted in water, mustard powder (40-50 g per 10 l).
Many common general-purpose insecticides are used to control rape sawfly larvae.
The bug looks pretty nice - lacquered black, in the sun it casts blue-green (this is what it owes its nickname to the sparkle or sparkle). It waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12 ° C, it wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but does not disdain other Cruciferous (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Crop losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener is fighting the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.
The rape blossom beetle reaches its peak in late spring or early summer.
Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the pyrethroid group are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to distract him from the radish by planting some rapeseed or rapeseed nearby.
Literally 2-3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rapeseed beetle from more important crops for the gardener
Grayish-beige molluscs devoid of their shells, feeding on roots and radish greens. They can destroy young shoots completely. In adult specimens, large holes are eaten out in leaf tissues, through tunnels are made in root crops. A sticky trail remains on the surface, casting silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, so they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.
Radish, affected by slugs, sharply loses in keeping quality and presentability
It is quite difficult to remove slugs. It is much easier to prevent them from appearing in the garden. For this, several traps are built - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of root crops are surrounded by a barrier of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, pine needles, ground nuts or eggshells. Any spicy aromatic herbs and other plants with a strong aroma are planted around the beds and in the aisles. Fresh nettle or wormwood leaves can also be placed there.
Slugs do not have even minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.
Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. Attracting them to your own site is not so difficult. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically display plates of milk, and so on.
Having found several individuals, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then you can't do without chemicals. From the best side, the drugs Meta, Groza, Slizneed have proven themselves.
An extremely omnivorous pest that does not disdain the absolute majority of horticultural crops. Radish is no exception. Aphids are small greenish-yellow, pale-green or black-brown insects. It feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects stick to the underside of leaves, especially young ones. Affected areas of tissue discolor, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.
Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops
Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to get it out of the garden unless you simultaneously take care of the fight against these insects too.
It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden area without first getting rid of the ants.
Aphids really do not like strong strong odors. Therefore, spicy herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender will be good neighbors for radishes. Many of them are good honey plants, attracting the attention of the natural enemy of aphids - the ladybug. From their greens, infusions are prepared, with which plants and soil are sprayed. Other suitable raw materials are orange peels, pine needles, dry tobacco leaves, mustard powder.
On the contrary, there are plants that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtiums, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.
Having found the first individuals, the radishes are sprayed with household foam, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off with clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prophylaxis, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.
In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any general-purpose insecticides are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Confidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.
The beetle affects the plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. Its color is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown legs. The elytra seem to be embossed; eight dents, similar to points, are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.
Babanukha is also known by the nickname shitty leaf beetle
The pest gradually eats up the leaf plate, scraping off layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, and become as if rotten. Through holes with ragged edges gradually appear. Females lay eggs in cracks in affected tissues, larvae hibernate in soil.
For prevention, sprinkle the soil in the garden with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15–20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.
Cut stepchildren of tomatoes can be used to prepare an infusion that repels many pests
On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the garden bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning, when they are not very active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.
Radish is one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in fact, is reduced to the necessary minimum. A vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly inspect the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, there are enough of them to avoid infection.
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Fleas are most active in spring, when the air temperature rises to 15 ° C. At this time, adults lay eggs and begin to actively eat young leaves, scraping off their delicate skin. Gradually, insects gnaw through holes in the leaves, the integrity of the leaves is violated, so that the plant looks "full of holes". In early and warm spring, an invasion of cruciferous flea beetles can kill most of the plantings.
Beetle larvae eat thin roots, aggravating the development of the plant. With the onset of rains, the activity of flea beads decreases somewhat - they do not like moisture, but in this case, all kinds of diseases begin to develop on damaged plants. Insects, on the other hand, switch to planting roses and lilies, gnawing holes in the buds.
The cruciferous flea reproduces very quickly and therefore poses a real threat even for numerous plantings. A new (less active) generation is born in July. Therefore, control measures must be constant and systematic in order not to allow the pest to gather an "army" of eaters of cultures.
If you want to grow an early harvest, sowing is carried out at the end of March when cultivated in a greenhouse and in late April - early May when planting in open ground. For a long-term collection of vegetables, sowing is repeated every 10-14 days, starting from the second half of July. In order to obtain a winter harvest, sowing work begins after the soil is completely frozen.
Growing radish Rudolph F1 is available in several ways: with the onset of spring in the open field or in a stationary heated greenhouse all year round. For germination, radish seeds require a temperature of + 2 + 4 degrees. In emergency cases, seedlings are able to overcome frosts down to -3 C, however, a long stay in the soil at low temperatures provokes shooters.
The fruits develop well at temperatures of + 15 + 20 degrees.
There are no requirements for the acidity of the soil in the Rudolph hybrid. The crop is equally good when grown on acidic soil, and on alkaline. The best option would be to use soil with an increased inclusion of humus.
Radish Rudolph does not respond well to an excess of nitrogen fertilization. In this case, active growth of greenery is observed, and the fruits lose their shape, bend and flabby. For prevention, the garden must be dug up and humus added. It is advisable to carry out this procedure in the fall.
Before spring planting, the soil should be loosened and complex fertilizers added. For proper growth, the Rudolph radish needs trace elements such as boron, potassium, selenium and magnesium. In the presence of heavy soil, it is advisable to add sand or peat.
Correct planting of Rudolph F1 radish and further care will guarantee healthy growth and a bountiful harvest. When sowing seeds, it is necessary to follow a certain pattern - 5 cm distance between seeds and 15 cm distance between rows.
Attention! Do not sow Rudolph radishes too thickly - this can provoke the formation of an arrow and adversely affect the size of the vegetables.
From above, the crops must be mulched with peat. When using pelleted seeds after planting, the garden bed is watered abundantly. Untreated seed is not recommended to be watered, otherwise there is a high likelihood of crop washing out of the soil. In such a situation, the soil is moistened before the seed is laid out.
Further care consists in regular watering as the top layer of the soil dries out, weeding and gentle loosening of the soil. As needed, plantings are thinned out, observing a distance of 5-6 cm between shoots.
Larisa, 45 years old, Taganrog
In our climate, I no longer hoped to grow a normal radish, since spring comes very quickly and amicably, and even in spring it does not always have enough moisture - often small and woody root crops are obtained. I read about the Sora hybrid and its resistance to flowering and decided to try it. The seedlings were really very amicable, the fruits ripened quite quickly too. Taste is beyond praise - all radishes are juicy, crispy, moderately spicy. This year, however, I liked it less - the harvest was not so abundant and the roots themselves grew too long. True, this may have happened due to the excessive thickening of crops.
Tatiana, 52 years old, Astrakhan
I love radishes very much, but I couldn't grow it normally by myself until I tried the Sora hybrid. I sowed it, as usual, under the covering material at the end of March, and it made me happy with 100% seedlings. I even had to thin out a little. The first harvest was awesome, and I ventured to sow it again. And what - even in spite of the hot May, the radish grew and delighted the whole family with juicy and beautiful fruits. What a pleasure it is to eat your own radish all summer long!
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