Fragrant and sweet garden strawberries, or as they are often called strawberries in the common people, every gardener who is more or less knowledgeable in gardening tries to grow on his site. Meanwhile, this is not an easy matter, caring for it, especially after fruiting, is extremely important, since it is during this period that the flower buds of the next summer are laid. The remontant forms of this berry crop, which differ from ordinary varieties in their ability to yield in waves (first and second waves) practically all summer, have some peculiarities in this regard.
The first time, remontant strawberries bear fruit quite early, but there are usually few fruits, the main harvest is taken in the second, and sometimes the third wave. To ensure repeated and abundant berry growth after the first berry harvest, it is necessary to take care of the plantation.
So what to do:
Mineral granules can be dissolved in water and poured over strawberries with this solution, or they can be applied under the bushes in a dry form, scattered and slightly embedded in the soil.
After harvesting the first harvest of remontant strawberries, the bushes require careful care.
Visually, I can't distinguish between remontant strawberries and simple summer ones, so in July I process all the bushes the same way. But even in this case, in September, and sometimes in October, several extremely aromatic and tasty berries appear.
After picking the last berries from the remontant strawberries, you should not relax either, you need to take several important steps so that the berry grower has time to prepare for winter.
First of all, they put things in order on the strawberry beds. Thoroughly weed, collect all plant debris and old mulch, then loosen it shallowly (2-3 cm), add soil under the bushes if necessary and mulch again.
After the end of fruiting, which sometimes ends only before the very frosts, it is highly not recommended to mow repair strawberries completely. Because the new leaf apparatus, the weakened plant will no longer have time to grow and in winter it will most likely freeze out. For the same reason, it is also impossible to radically thin it out. At the end of autumn, only dry and damaged leaves are cut out, as well as old flower stalks. All whiskers are completely removed, since they will not be able to take root before a cold snap and will still die. Although there are adherents of naturalness who are against the removal of the mustache in principle. They believe that it is better for such strawberries to grow in a solid carpet.
Prune the remontant strawberries sparingly, removing only old and diseased leaves, as well as spent flower stalks
All cut leaves, collected debris and plant debris must be burned, preventing infection (if any) from spreading throughout the site.
In rainy autumn weather, no additional moisture of the berry plantation is usually required. But if it is a hot and dry autumn, then the strawberry beds are watered at least once a week. In this case, the soil should be saturated 5–7 cm deep. After watering, they must be loosened to avoid the formation of a hard earthen crust.
Nitrogen complexes in autumn are no longer inappropriate, since the supply of nitrogen can cause unnecessary growth of new shoots. Therefore, after the end of fruiting, strawberries are fertilized only with phosphorus-potassium compounds (based on 1 m2):
They try to combine fertilization with watering.
In the fall, you can use any complex autumn fertilizer to feed remontant strawberries.
You can use any universal complex autumn fertilizer that is applied at the end of the season (Gera, Fasco, etc.).
As a preventive measure to combat various diseases and harmful insects, the berry plantation after the end of fruiting is treated with a solution of colloidal sulfur (1-3%) or Bordeaux liquid (2%). Thoroughly spray the entire ground part, as well as the soil under the bushes and in the aisles.
If there are signs of fungal pathologies, for example, gray rot or powdery mildew, then fungicides are additionally used (the working solution is prepared according to the instructions):
After harvesting the fruits, remontant strawberries are treated for pests and diseases.
Insecticides and acaricides will help from bred raspberry-strawberry weevils and spider mites:
Very often, remontant strawberries continue to bear fruit even in late autumn and go under the snow with berries. Inevitably, part of the harvest is lost, but there is also the possibility of freezing out bushes unprepared for frost. As insulation, strawberry plantings after the first good frosts are mulched with a thick layer (5–8 cm) of mowed grass, straw, dry foliage, sawdust, etc. Throw spruce branches, tops, sunflower or corn stalks from above to keep snow. Many summer residents cover the remontant strawberries with a non-woven covering material, which is fixed around the perimeter so that it is not blown away by the wind.
You can extend the harvest time and allow the last late berries to ripen; for this, the beds are covered with a film stretched on arcs.
Competent care of strawberries of remontant varieties and strict adherence to the rules of agricultural technology will allow you to get a bountiful harvest of delicious fragrant berries several times per season, as well as prepare the berry well for wintering and subsequent fruiting next year.
So, we will tell you what you need to do immediately after removing the entire crop from the plantings of strawberries, and then we will analyze each stage in as much detail as possible so that no black (unclear) spots remain.
The first stage is, of course, loosening the soil. It is necessary to loosen the soil carefully, both in the aisles and under the bushes, trying not to damage the fragile root system of the strawberry and not to remove its roots to the surface. Loosening will provide ventilation of the soil, get rid of the soil crust, increase air and water exchanges, respectively, the plants will begin to receive more nutrition and moisture from the same unit of area, grow normally, develop and lay a sufficient number of generative buds to ensure a high yield of strawberries.
When loosening the soil around the strawberry bushes, try to simultaneously add a little fresh and nutritious soil to them, especially if you notice that one or more roots are bare.
The second important event that can be carried out literally according to the list is the weeding of the beds, that is, the removal of all weeds, especially wheatgrass. Wheatgrass is extremely tenacious and consumes a lot of moisture and nutrients from the soil. It is better not to pull it out of the ground, but literally pull it out with your hands, then, perhaps, its further growth will be greatly slowed down.
Do not lose sight of other weeds, because they are the same competitors, and therefore must be removed. It is best to remove weeds after watering or good rain, then the roots of the weeds are mostly and much easier to pull out of the soil.
The beds need to be kept moist, just try to pour moisture under the bushes in the evening. It is better not to pour water on the leaves at noon - sunburn may occur. Naturally, you need to water the strawberries based on the weather outside the window, for example, if it is raining and the soil is already saturated with moisture, then additional watering is not needed at all, it is much more appropriate here to loosen the soil, and perhaps tear off a couple of lower leaves from those that are literally nailed to the ground to increase moisture evaporation and prevent rot formation.
If the weather is dry, and there is not even a hint of rain, then watering is necessary. When watering, it is best to use settled water or rainwater, it should be soaked in the soil to a depth of at least 5-6 cm so that the roots are saturated with moisture. It is also impossible to overmoisten the soil, but overdried soil will be detrimental to plants.
Drip irrigation of strawberries. © Reeser Manley
If you are a resident of a summer cottage, where you visit only on weekends, then you can design a simple drip irrigation system. To do this, you need to take a barrel of 200 liters, install it on a small elevation, under the stream of rain from the roof, make a couple of holes in the base of the barrel (according to the number of rows in the garden) for special tubes - droppers and spread them along the beds with strawberries. Moisture, flowing through the droppers, will moisten the soil in your absence, where it is needed.
If you do not want to "bother" with the installation of droppers, then you can simply mulch the soil after each watering, with a layer of a couple of centimeters. You can use straw, sawdust, humus, or just dry soil as mulch for strawberries. For several days, this mulch will be enough to preserve moisture in the soil.
In the event that after harvesting the garden strawberries, a layer of old mulch, say, straw, which you laid out, which you laid out in order to keep the berry clean and protect it from the appearance of fruit rot, remains on the site, it is necessary to remove such mulch as carefully as possible and burn it, reuse it not necessary, as harmful microorganisms can accumulate in it.
The next stage: as you know, the leaf blades of garden strawberries, after serving for two years, begin to age, so they can be safely removed. They do it in different ways: they are combed with a rake, mowed and even cut by hand. There is no clear guide to such actions, but do not forget that when removing old, discolored strawberry leaf blades, it is important not to damage the growth points. Considering this, two methods are considered the most gentle - raking old leaves with a rake (they are easily separated) and removing them manually.
This stage can be combined: the removal of old leaf blades can be combined with feeding the plants. Having reproduced offspring, strawberry plants are quite depleted, and there is a long winter ahead and a short period for which you need to have time to re-plant flower buds in order to give a good harvest for the next year.
If there is little nutrition in the soil, then this can negatively affect immunity: it will weaken and the plants can freeze in winter and at the stage of growth activity, so the bushes will lay a minimum number of flower buds.
Removing old leaves from strawberry bushes
The abundance of large and tasty berries in the current season is laid in the middle of last summer. That is why correct agrotechnical measures are important immediately after harvest. The size and quality of the next year's harvest depend on the help you provided to your plantation in July-September. Any troubles in the life of strawberry bushes after fruiting (diseases, damage from pests, lack of moisture, early frosts, lack of nutrition) lead to a sharp decrease in yield in the next season, as well as to a deterioration in the quality of berries. Caring for strawberries after harvesting is reduced to 6 agronomic techniques.
The abundance of large and tasty berries in the current season is laid in the middle of last summer.
After the last berries are picked, the strawberries need a refresh. It is an evergreen plant, and in the process of its development, leaves are constantly changing. There are 2 main waves of growth of the leaf mass:
Several cycles of leaf mass growth can be observed in strawberries.
The lifespan of leaves grown in spring is 2-3 months. Their main purpose is to synthesize nutrition for flowering and pouring berries. That is why, after the return of the harvest, the strawberries have such a shabby appearance: all the strength went into the fruits. After the end of fruiting, the withering away of aged leaves, which appeared in the spring, begins, and the regrowth of young ones.
In the second half of summer, the plant faces 2 tasks - the formation of the rudiments of flower buds for the next season and preparation for a successful wintering. This is what summer-autumn leaves do. And the task of the gardener is to help and at the same time not harm the plant. Disputes about whether or not it is necessary to trim the leaves after fruiting have been going on for a long time and, in general, without a visible preponderance in any direction.
Pruning leaves after fruiting
In nature, strawberries behave in the same way as cultivated ones, but, of course, no one cuts off old leaves from them. They die off when the time comes. They lie on the ground, naturally mulch the soil under the bush, warming the root system before the onset of cold weather. And at the same time they serve as food for the growing bush in the spring.
But Nature does not care about the life and convenience of each particular plant - the health and productivity of the population as a whole, not only strawberries, is valuable.For Nature, slugs and May beetles are equally important, as well as whiteflies, weevils, birds, mice and even Botrytis cinerea (fungus - the causative agent of gray rot) - everyone who feeds on the berries and leaves of this plant. And also - those who eat and digest it, if it does not cope with the onslaught of pests, diseases or adverse conditions and will die.
Old leaves are affected by diseases
A man, in contrast to Nature, has a limited number of bushes. He is greedy, he wants large and tasty berries, but more! And he does not want to share them with slugs, starlings and mushrooms. Therefore, the removal of old leaves with traces of diseases is one of the important agricultural practices in the care of strawberries after harvest. By clearing the plantation from dying green mass, we reduce the influence of infections and destroy some of the pests.
Some take a radical approach to this issue, completely mowing all the strawberry tops. If you intend to do this immediately after the final harvest of the berries - in my opinion, this is a possible solution, although the existing leaves still continue to participate in photosynthesis.
I remove only those leaves that are damaged and have already laid on the ground. Photo by the author
If you decide to carry out such a procedure closer to August, then the leaves of a new wave, which have already grown, will also fall under the knife. Considering that the replacement of leaves begins even when there are berries on the bushes, total mowing, when not done, damages the young growth. By renewing it, the plant will uselessly expend the energy necessary to start a new crop. I remove only damaged leaves and those that have already fallen on the ground, that is, unnecessary.
Another question about leaf removal: how to carry out this operation? Most often, it is advised not to tear the leaf in any way, but carefully cut it off with a pruner, otherwise you can damage the plant itself, its "heart".
After the secateurs, the stumps of the petioles remain
I somehow came across information in which it was advised to do otherwise: to tear off a sheet, holding the rosette of the bush. The leaf, which no longer plays a special role, bends back and lies on the ground. It is easily detached along with the stipule heel. As a result, the stump of the petioles does not remain, which, firstly, until they dry out, serve as a gateway for infection, and secondly, when dry, they become an excellent refuge for pests.
The sheet comes off neatly. Photo by the author
It seems to me that there is logic in breaking leaves. Tomato stepchildren, often for the same reason (spread of infections), many prefer to break it out - and not cut it off, leaving the stumps. This year I will try to pull off rather than cut old strawberry leaves. Together with them, it is necessary to remove unnecessary aerial shoots (whiskers) and weed out weeds. After that, the most appropriate time for pest and disease control comes.
You can learn about other points of view on this issue from the following publications:
Simultaneously with the general cleaning on the strawberry bed, it is necessary to loosen the soil in the aisles. Good air permeability of the soil is very important for this crop, especially in spring and after harvest. By the end of fruiting, not only new leaves, but also roots begin to grow. This process continues until September, therefore, loosening of the soil in the aisles of strawberries is carried out until the end of summer. Experts advise doing this once every 2 weeks, as well as after watering and rains.
Burdock leaves as mulch
I do not perform such an operation, because my strawberry beds are well mulched. This, in my opinion, is really convenient: the soil always remains loose, you have to water less, weeds grow worse, the berries do not get dirty. Straw is traditionally used as mulch (in English, strawberry or strawberry, which translates as "straw berry"). Other materials that are available and convenient are also suitable: sawdust, needles, husks, as well as agrofibre or film.
With black agrofibre, I did not find a common language: in summer it dried quickly, in winter it froze, the weeds lifted the canvas, growing beautifully under it. And it is inconvenient to pour the earth to the roots into the hole. Therefore, I mulch with large sawdust and pine bark. For more information on how else you can do this, read these articles:
Garden strawberries have 2 methods of propagation. You can get new plants by sowing seeds, as well as planting vegetative shoots (whiskers). Strawberries begin to grow over them, as a rule, by the end of flowering, but the bulk of the shoots with new young rosettes are formed after the end of fruiting. New whiskers continue to grow until September.
This property of strawberries is both evil and good for the gardener. The constantly growing young generation is connected by an umbilical cord-shoot with the mother plant - and, like all children, sucks the juices from the parent, even after it takes root on its own. If we consider that some varieties are very prolific and can produce up to 30 aerial shoots per season, and the matter is not limited to one young rosette, then this becomes a serious load on the bush.
Babies take a lot of energy from the mother plant. As a result, the future harvest decreases: instead of laying flower buds, strawberries build up young rosettes, because its main goal is reproduction, and it is easier to do it vegetatively. The plant is weakened and can freeze out in winter, because instead of preparing for the cold weather, it took care of the offspring. At the same time, the strawberry plot turns into a solid green carpet.
By preventing vegetative propagation, we not only save the nutrients and strength of the bush for the formation of flower buds, but also encourage it to do it more actively. The gardener, as it were, manipulates the plant's desire to leave as many offspring as possible.
Mustache rosettes - planting material for plantation renewal
The positive aspect of this feature of the strawberry bush (rosettes on stolons) is an excellent self-forming planting material for multiplying the variety and renewing the strawberry plantation. The best quality as seedlings is in the first order rosettes (starting from the parent plant) with the strongest and thickest shoots.
For breeding, I take rosettes only from bushes of the first year of cultivation. From older plants, the offspring can already be infected with anything, so I remove all the other whiskers. If you want to start a new variety or do not have the opportunity to grow your own seedlings, then you can choose planting material in our market, which unites large online stores. A selection of Garden strawberry saplings.
Like other plants, strawberries need water. Despite this, the question often arises whether it is necessary to water the strawberries during fruiting. On the one hand, abundant watering can provoke the growth of leaves, which will adversely affect the harvest. On the other hand, the plant needs more water to ripen the fruit.
Strawberries are moisture-loving plants, so they should always be watered abundantly. But at the same time, excessive watering should not be allowed so that the water stagnates. It is more dangerous for plants from 2 years old due to the structure of their roots. At this time, the lower roots gradually begin to die off, and the roots extending from the horns are very small and short. Therefore, the plant is not able to take water from the depths of the soil, and roots located close to the surface can rot in stagnant water. Therefore, you need to water the strawberries only as the soil begins to dry out.
The frequency of watering and the amount of water required is largely determined by the type of soil. Plants planted on loamy soil require more frequent watering, while strawberries planted on black soil can be watered a little less frequently. For 1 sq. m requires 14-15 liters of water. During the fruiting period, strawberries need to be watered more often: 3 times a month (while in other periods, once a month is enough).
An important point is watering time. It is undesirable to water during the day, as drops of water falling on the leaves can cause burns. The optimal watering time is morning. In this case, burns can be prevented, as well as stagnation of water in the garden, which means rotting of the roots.
Proper care of strawberries during fruiting is impossible without observing the rules regarding water temperature. It is worth remembering that strawberries really do not like cold water. In many areas, barrels are placed in which the water for irrigation is heated in a day. But at night it usually cools down, and in the morning the water often does not have time to heat up.
Cold water can have a negative effect on the condition of the strawberry root system - it begins to weaken. Therefore, it is recommended to heat the water at least a little.
To facilitate the care of strawberries during fruiting, it is recommended to mulch the soil - that is, close it with bundles of straw or pine needles. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture during extreme heat and avoid weeds.
In July, after fruiting strawberries, care is performed corresponding to this period, these are:
In July, after picking berries, the plants begin to grow new leaves, the formation of new horns, the growth of whiskers with lateral rosettes intensifies and new flower buds are laid.
First, weeding the beds is done. Excess whiskers and dried leaves are removed. Reddened leaves are removed first. You cannot pick off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it off, otherwise the bush will be damaged and hurt.
For pruning, sharp scissors or pruning shears are taken. It is better to burn old leaves in order to avoid the reproduction of pests. If young leaves curl or take on a corrugated shape, this is an indicator of strawberry mite infestation and the plants should be treated with acaricidal preparations.
If the central leaves turn yellow, the petioles are thickened and short, this is a sign of a nematode. At the same time, the plant is dug up, treated with boiling water and removed from the site.
After pruning, old mulch is removed from the beds. The soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, watered.
The aisles are loosened 10 centimeters deep. Loosening is carried out around the plants by 5 centimeters. The bushes are spilling.
In this case, the roots should be completely closed, and the upper part of the bush should remain above the ground. This is especially true for plants that have been growing for several years, since their root system begins to protrude above the ground.
For feeding, mineral fertilizers are taken with an admixture of trace elements. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. For this, a special fertilizer for garden strawberries, Fertik, ammofosk is suitable.
Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 6 centimeters.
In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It crumbles from above. It will improve the structure of the soil and make it more fertile.
Also, you can make top dressing on the beds from diluted chicken manure (15 parts of water and 1 part of droppings). When feeding, one must not forget that this solution should not fall on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of solution can generally destroy the bush. Therefore, this type of feeding is not used very often.
In dry weather, the beds are watered. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is carried out once a week for a bucket per square meter.
For the best effect, drip irrigation can be used. This type of watering will allow you to get the right amount of moisture and at the same time the plants do not rot, since the soil does not become waterlogged.
The soil around the bushes is mulched with chopped grass, peat, and straw.
Getting a bountiful strawberry crop next year requires proper care. The last month of summer is best suited for this.
The old leaves are cut off. If varieties are grown in groups, the early varieties are cultivated first. Then there are medium and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and will not allow them to outgrow, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.
The mustache is cut off 10 centimeters from the base of the bush. After pruning, young foliage and core (horns) remain on the bush.
The mustache with new rosettes and young roots is deposited to form young bushes. For this, the strongest specimens are selected, while the weak ones are removed.
For the best yield after harvesting, the strongest mustache remains on the bush. A new mother bush will grow out of it to replace the old one. This operation is performed every three years.
To protect plants from various pests, fungi, powdery mildew and stains, therapeutic and prophylactic spraying of strawberries is performed.
For spraying, such preparations are used as: Karbofos or Aktellik, this is a protection against weevils and strawberry mites Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew, a one percent solution of lime and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot, spotting.
Top dressing of bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds.
For fertilizers, fertilizers with nitrogen are taken (a strong urea solution is not suitable).
Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. In the finished version, it can be: Fasco, Autumn, Autumn. All these preparations, in addition to the base, contain other useful substances.
Fertilizer Autumn does not contain nitrogen in its composition, which makes it possible to use it even in a later period, but this preparation contains in its composition all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.
Suitable as organic fertilizers: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.
Poultry manure is not used to avoid excess nitrogen.
Do not mix mineral and organic fertilizers. In rare cases, with depleted soil, mineral and organic fertilizing is applied over the entire area of the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.
After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, needles, potato tops, straw. For shelter, dry weather is selected, otherwise the layer may crumble and cause the formation of pests and diseases within the layer or lead to root rot.
The layer of mulch that covers plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material is used, for example, spunbond.
Repair strawberries differ from standard varieties in that they produce several harvests per year. Proper care guarantees not only bountiful harvests, but also the formation of new bushes, which allows you to quickly breed this variety on the site.
To obtain the second and third good results, the peduncles are necessarily thinned out.
After each fruiting, reddened and diseased leaves are removed from the bushes. The first order mustache remains on the uterine bush. It is best to root them in prepared cups for further seating.After the end of the season, the cups are collected, the mustache is cut off from the main bush and they can be planted in prepared beds.
When caring for remontant strawberries, watering should be done more often than when watering standard varieties, but less abundantly. For irrigation, it is better to take heated water. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged, otherwise the strawberry root system may start to rot.
Repairing strawberry varieties are demanding on fertilizers and must be supplied with potassium and nitrogen constantly. When preparing the soil for planting new plants, phosphate fertilizers are added.
You should not leave bushes with berries under the snow.
After collecting the last autumn harvest from the plants, it is necessary to cut off all the foliage, flower stalks and cover the bushes with a special non-woven material that will protect the plants from frost.
Repair strawberries, in comparison with simple varieties, have a short lifespan and after two years the plants should change new ones. Some varieties do not give whiskers and care for them is easier, but seeds are used for their propagation, which complicates the breeding process.
July and August are suitable for the renewal of strawberry plantations. By autumn, the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.
In preparation for winter, peduncles and leaves are cut off from the mother bushes. The bushes are huddled so that the roots are covered with soil. But at the same time, the core must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot. The prepared beds are covered with foliage and grass.
In addition to the standard cultivation method, repair strawberries can grow on trellises, columns, in tunnels.
To protect the plants, protective plants, such as corn, are planted on the trellis on both sides of the strawberries, which remains to winter and additionally saves the strawberries from freezing.
After the last fruiting, the strawberries are covered with a breathable non-woven material, which saves the plantings from freezing. When grown in tunnels, fruiting lasts until the first frost.
During the warm period of Indian summer, the covering material is lifted on one side for air circulation. Even when temperatures drop under the material, the strawberries fully ripen and do not lose their flavor.
Both remontant and standard strawberry varieties require constant care, especially after fruiting, as the plants become depleted, grow and may start to hurt.
With careful and careful care, the yield increases, the size of the berries of even small varieties becomes larger, the fruits are saturated with moisture and sweetness.
There are a lot of strawberry varieties and in every region, even quite cool ones, you can choose a suitable option that will delight you with a tasty and aromatic harvest.
We usually plant seedlings of remontant strawberries in open ground around mid-April. By removing the first inflorescences from the plant, on the one hand, we allow the plants to strengthen and grow, on the other hand, we delay fruiting, which is useful in this case (without this, the first harvest of fruits would coincide with the harvest of traditionally fruiting strawberries). Thus, the collection of fruits of varieties that repeat fruiting begins in the second half of July and is carried out until frost, but the yield is much higher.
Vladimir - Leading Agronomist, FH "Izumrud"
We recently tried to grow these varieties using a different technology. We planted seedlings in pots at the end of August. So the plants took root until the end of winter, in early spring they quickly resumed their growth and made it possible to get the first early harvest of strawberries even earlier than traditional varieties or on a par with early varieties. In such a system, not only an early harvest is obtained, but after a short break, the plants resume fruiting from about mid-July until the end of the season. In good conditions, the yield is up to 1 kg per bush. Such a growing system makes sense in regions where the winter is not too cold and the plants need to be protected from frost.
Growing remontant strawberries is profitable in tunnels. By planting seedlings in a greenhouse in mid-April, we get the first fruits in mid-June, which is very early for our region, this allows us to keep a high level of prices. The berries are harvested before the onset of frost. Such a growing system allows us to offer fresh strawberries to the market outside the season, with proper care we get high quality dessert berries. Of course, remontant strawberries can be successfully grown outdoors, but the size and quality of the crop will depend on weather conditions, and the season for the first harvest will not provide the same benefits as when grown in greenhouses.