Growing eucharis indoors


Eucharis - snow-white flowers and exquisite aroma

In the tropics of South America, under the crowns of trees in mountain forests, a genus of lovely bulbous plants from the amaryllis family grows (Amaryllidaceous).

It is called Eucharis (Eucharis) and includes about a dozen plant species that differ little from each other. Literally translated from Greek, the name means "super graceful, super pleasant". And first of all, it characterizes eucharis flowers.

At the beginning of the 19th century, these plants were first brought to Europe from South America and were first grown in botanical gardens. But due to their unpretentiousness, they quickly spread to indoor floriculture.


Eucharis has very large wide elliptical dark green shiny leaves up to 25-30 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The length of the petiole is approximately equal to the length of the leaf or slightly more. Young leaves emerging from the bulbs are twisted on both sides into tubes. The bulb is light, round, 3-5 cm in diameter. Eucharis blooms 1-2 times a year. Spectacular snow-white flowers are collected in an umbrella-shaped inflorescence of 3-6 pieces on a high peduncle reaching 50-60 cm.

During flowering, they exude an exquisite aroma, vaguely reminiscent of lily of the valley. In appearance, the flower is very similar to a daffodil because of the crown of stamens formed in the center. Despite this, the people of Eucharis are for some reason called the "Amazonian lily". In room culture, species of Eucharis large-flowered are more often grown (E. grandiflora) and Eucharis Amazonian (E. amazonian). The first forms luxurious flowers up to 12 cm in diameter! The second has smaller flowers - 5-6 cm.

Eucharis care

Eucharis prefers bright diffused light or partial shade, does not tolerate direct sunlight, especially in summer. Due to its shade tolerance, it can grow successfully in any room.

An east or west window works well. But since this plant is quite large, it does not always have enough space on the window. In this case, eucharis will feel great in the back of the room, at some distance from the window, if there is enough lighting. A bright, warm kitchen with its high humidity will be just an ideal place. In summer, the pot with the plant can be kept on the balcony, shading from the sun. But as soon as night temperatures drop to 10 ... 12 ° C, it must be cleaned in the room at night.

Eucharis is quite thermophilic and in summer it prefers a temperature of 23 ... 28 ° C, preferably at least 18 ° C. In winter, it is recommended to keep it at a temperature of 16 ... 18 ° C in various methodological sources. But based on personal experience, I advise you to provide him with 20 ... 22 ° C and a bright place. Only on such conditions will he please with flowering. Otherwise, it will only slowly change leaves from year to year. A temperature of 10 ° C is already considered damaging for him: dropping of leaves and rotting of bulbs and roots due to hypothermia are possible. And eucharis suffers the loss of leaves very painfully.

During the growing period, the soil should always be moderately moist without stagnant water. Excessive moisture can cause the bulbs to rot. The approximate watering regime is every 3-4 days after the soil dries up. Water should be abundant during flowering. Water must be used necessarily settled or boiled at room temperature or a little warmer.

When the plant is at rest, watering is almost stopped, not allowing only the complete drying of the earthen coma. The onset of the dormant phase can be determined by the lack of growth of young leaves. This usually happens in late summer or early autumn, as well as immediately after flowering. But the exact time, of course, depends on the specific conditions of detention and the time of flowering.

In the spring and summer, every 2-3 weeks, Eucharis is fed with special liquid fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. The concentration of the solution is desirable lower than recommended by the instructions, so as not to overfeed with nitrogen. In autumn and winter, no feeding is given.

From time to time, it is useful to wipe the eucharis leaves with a soft, damp sponge. In the summer it is regularly sprayed. Do not spray the plant only during flowering, so as not to spoil the appearance of the flowers. Red spots appear on white petals from water droplets. At this time, they are limited only to moistening the leaves with a wet sponge.

After flowering, eucharis goes into a dormant state for about 1-1.5 months. At this time, watering is reduced and feeding is stopped. During this period, the main thing is to restrain the appearance of new leaves and prevent the old ones from dying off. Such rest is very important, it ensures the subsequent flowering. And as soon as new young leaves appear from the soil, watering is increased and begins to feed.


Reproduction and transplantation of eucharis

The dormant period is the most suitable time for eucharis transplantation and reproduction. Large plants are transplanted about once every three to four years, young ones - annually, using the transshipment method.

In this case, it is important not to damage the earthen clod around the bulbs and not to separate the children without the need. The fact is that eucharis blooms better precisely when there is a large "family" of bulbs. And the bulbs planted one by one do not bloom for a long time. The formation of young daughter bulbs means that the plant is quite ready to bloom..

The soil for eucharis must be loose and very nutritious. Mix 4 parts of leaf soil, 2 parts of compost, 2 parts of coarse sand and 1 part of loam to ensure good moisture holding capacity. Shop soil for bulbous plants is also suitable. For planting, choose a fairly spacious and not very deep, heavy pot with a drainage hole.

Too small a container will inhibit the formation of new bulbs, which negatively affects flowering. In addition, this large plant will simply knock over a small and light pot. At the bottom of the container, drainage from stones or expanded clay is necessarily arranged. A layer of soil is poured on top, the bulbs are placed and covered with the remaining earth.

The planting depth of the bulb depends on whether it has leaves. If the bulb is without leaves, it is better to plant it so that the top sticks out above the soil surface. This will allow you to monitor her condition. Everything must be done so that it releases the leaves as quickly as possible. Eucharis painfully endures a leafless state.

Bottom heating is beneficial because the bulb can rot in damp cold soil. Decay occurs from the bottom, so it is difficult to notice it in time, and you can lose the plant. Watering at this time should be done sparingly to prevent waterlogging of the soil. About a month after planting, young leaves emerge from the bulb. From this moment, feeding begins every two weeks.

Bulbs with leaves are planted to a depth of 5 to 10 cm. At first they are rarely watered, but kept in a warm place (25 ... 30 ° C), it is possible with lower heating.

After a planned transfer to another pot, during the first 8-10 days, eucharis is kept in a cool, shaded place without abundant watering. Under favorable conditions, a young plant forms many daughter bulbs, quickly turning into a large bush. During flowering, it looks like a huge fragrant bouquet. I once saw in one institution a blooming eucharis in a large spacious tub, above which a dozen and a half flower stalks towered. The spectacle is simply unforgettable! And the delicate aroma of flowers could be felt several meters away.

If an adult eucharis from year to year flatly refuses to bloom, it means that the room is too cool, or he was not provided with a rest period. When warm, it throws out powerful, wide leaves and large flower arrows. It is necessary to correct these errors in the content mode, and then it will definitely bloom.

A change in the color of the leaves towards yellowing, the appearance of a silvery tint on the surface indicates the appearance of pests (scale insects, thrips, aphids, spider mites). This is facilitated by dry air and high temperatures. It is necessary to treat the plant with insecticides and then regularly spray it to increase the humidity of the air. The main thing is not to confuse this situation with the process of natural change of leaves, when only old leaves turn yellow and die off and not all at once, but one or two leaves.

When caring for eucharis, you should be careful and remember that it is a plant poisonous to humans, like all amaryllids.

Irina Lukyanchik, florist


Features of sanitation

Sanvitalia's bushes have a spherical shape, and in height they reach no more than 20 centimeters. The length of the creeping highly branched shoots is about 0.45 m. Opposite leaf plates, painted in a deep green color, have a petiole and an ovoid or oblong-ovoid shape. Baskets-inflorescences reach 25 mm in diameter, they include marginal ligulate flowers of yellow, orange or white color, as well as median tubular flowers, painted in brown, violet-black or pale green. Sanvitalia blooms in the second half of the summer period, and fades in October. The fruit is an achene.

This flower can be grown in balcony boxes, in hanging baskets, in rockeries, they can decorate an alpine slide or frame flower beds and garden paths. And sanvitalia is also used as a ground cover plant. This plant is not only compact, but also unpretentious, therefore it is very often grown both in the open field and in indoor conditions. Sanvitalia is recommended to be combined with forget-me-nots, iberis, nasturtium and salvia.


Eucharis pests and their photos

High temperature and low air humidity contribute to the appearance of pests. Eucharis is damaged by aphids and spider mites, thrips and scale insects. They suck out cell sap, the leaves lose color, dry out and fall off. For mechanical cleaning of pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge. Then the plant must be sprayed with a 15% actellic solution (1-2 ml / l of water) or other insecticides.

These photos show the pests of eucharis, because of which the flower can lose its decorative effect:

All members of the amaryllis family are rich in the alkaloid licorine, which stimulates the vomiting center in the brain. Eucharis is a plant poisonous to humans!


Lavender indoors.

All you need is to buy the seeds of this fragrant plant and a clay pot with a diameter of 15-20 cm from the flower shop. Choose the brightest place in the house, it is better to have a window facing south: under the warm southern sun, lavender will feel, like at home. Put drainage at the bottom of the pot, and add a little sand to the purchased substrate, since the plant loves loose soil. Protect the lavender from drafts, and in the warm season, expose the pot with the plant to the air: in the garden, on the balcony or veranda. Water the lavender as needed: make sure that the soil is not too wet: the plant may die from an excess of water.

The graceful lavender flowers are prized for their extraordinary scent that brings good luck to the home. I don't know about Fortune's smile, but harmony and comfort will forever settle in the house where an extraordinary purple miracle - lavender - grows.


Banana care at home

If you properly care for a home banana and create favorable conditions for it, then there should be no problems with growing it indoors.

Bloom

The bush blooms only after 16 or 17 wide and large leaf plates are formed on it. This usually happens after the plant is 3 years old. The banana blooms in mid-July. Its foliage at this time is collected at the top of the stem in the shape of an umbrella.

After a heart-shaped leaf is formed at the very top, a large panicle-shaped inflorescence will appear from the central part of the rosette, which includes many small flowers of a pale green or cream color. As the flowers gradually bloom, the inflorescence increases in length and goes down, in natural conditions its length can reach 150 cm. The bush can bloom for 6-12 weeks.

There are both heterosexual and bisexual flowers. If the female flowers are pollinated, then bean-shaped fruits will form in their place, which are collected in a "bunchu" (brush). After some time, the foliage is observed to fall down. And after a while they fly around.

Temperature

Homemade banana is a very thermophilic plant. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the temperature regime, which should be optimal throughout the year. In the warm season, the air temperature in the room can vary from 26 to 30 degrees, and in the winter months - from 18 to 21 degrees.

Air humidity

Since this is a tropical plant, it needs high humidity, which must be at least 65%. It is not easy to achieve such a level of humidity in room conditions, especially in winter, when the air is dry by heating devices. In this regard, in the warm season, the bush is moistened from the sprayer regularly 3 or 4 times a day, and in winter this procedure is carried out 1 or 2 times a day. Also, a pot with a plant can be placed in a deep tray filled with wet expanded clay. You can also put an open vessel with water near the bush, and if possible, it is recommended to use a household air humidifier.

Illumination

A banana needs a lot of bright light. The more ultraviolet radiation the bush receives, the better its growth and development will be. In this regard, experts recommend that it is imperative to choose the sunniest windows of a southern, southeastern or southwestern orientation for such a plant.

If the banana does not receive enough light, it will lead to stunted growth, lack of flowering and fruiting. However, do not forget to shade the bush from the scorching rays of the sun on hot days, otherwise burns may appear on the foliage.

Watering

Homemade banana is a moisture-loving plant. Keep the potting soil slightly damp at all times. In the cold season, the bush is watered 1 time, and in the warm - about three times a week. Water it with well-settled water, the temperature of which should be slightly higher than room temperature.

Instead of watering, the plant is sometimes given a warm shower, to which it responds very well. Leave the wet bush in the bathroom for a while so that all the water can drain off.

Pot selection

Throughout the life of a banana, it will need to change its pot several times as it grows. In this case, the volume of the smallest pot should be 2 liters, and the largest - 50 liters. If the seedling you bought reaches a height of about 0.65 m, then you can choose a container with a volume of 20 liters for planting it.

It is not necessary to acquire an excessively large container for a banana, because it may contain stagnation of moisture in the soil mixture, which leads to its acidification and the appearance of rot on the roots. However, remember that if the root system is cramped in the pot, then this can lead to a deterioration in the development of the bush.

There must be drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, which will help to avoid stagnation of liquid in the soil mixture. Also, do not forget to lay drainage material on the bottom of the container during planting or transplanting a banana, the thickness of which should be at least 1/3 of the height of the pot.

Substrate

For growing a homemade banana, a fertile soil mixture is suitable, which is breathable and has neutral acidity.You can buy a ready-made potting soil specially designed for growing bananas at a specialty store.

If desired, the soil mixture can be prepared independently, it is enough to combine sand, peat, leaf and sod soil (1: 1: 2: 1). To increase the friability of the substrate, it is recommended to add coconut soil, sphagnum and vermiculite to it.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, the bush must be systematically fed every 7 days. Top dressing is carried out after watering, for this, in turn, use a universal mineral fertilizer and organic matter, which should be diluted in water. After fertilization, the bush is transferred to a shaded place for 24 hours.

Banana transplant

Homemade banana grows quickly, so it needs a regular transplant, which is carried out annually in the spring. While the plant is young, it needs to be transplanted once every six months. You can understand that the bush needs a transplant by the following signs: the roots protrude on the surface of the soil mixture or stick out of the holes at the bottom of the pot.

The new container should be 30–40 mm larger than the old one. A rather thick drainage layer is made at its bottom, for this you can use expanded clay, pieces of brick or pebbles.

When replanting a bush, be sure to deepen its base a little. This will provoke the growth of adventitious roots and an increase in yield. Remember that you need to transplant the banana using the transshipment method, which will prevent root injury. If the bush is old and very large, then it is not transplanted. Instead, he systematically replaces the top layer of the substrate with fresh soil mixture.

After transplanting or replacing the top layer of the substrate, the bush is watered with plenty of water and the pot is placed on a tray filled with wet expanded clay. Do not forget to put several plastic bottle caps under the bottom of the container. Thanks to this, the air will freely flow to the root system of the plant. After two days, gently loosen the surface of the substrate. And after 21 days, the first banana feeding should be carried out.

Pruning

Homemade banana doesn't need pruning. However, to rejuvenate the bush, the old plant is cut to the very root. After a while, young stems will appear.

Dormant period

Such a tropical plant does not have a dormant period. At any time of the year, the bush needs warmth and high humidity. However, in the winter months, the banana is given time during which it can have a good rest: the temperature is lowered to 20 degrees, the frequency of watering is reduced and fertilization is suspended.

Fruit growth

If the home banana is in favorable conditions for it (high humidity, warmth and bright light), then it will be able to bear fruit. A bush grown from a scion will be able to bear fruit in 1-2 years. A banana grown from seed will begin to bear fruit around the fourth year of growth. To stimulate the formation of fruits, the plant is fed in a timely manner.


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