In the spring we sowed grass on a large area of the lawn, it grows well, I mow with a lawn mower. I want to walk the cultivator all over the lawn in the fall. Will this procedure affect the planted grass, will it grow back?
The theme of a beautiful and well-groomed lawn is of interest to many. Garden owners want to see a green carpet in their backyards without flaws and weeds. Unfortunately, not everyone is ready, willing, or knows how to properly care for him.
Lawn grass care includes a whole range of measures aimed at primary soil preparation, activation of seed growth, further fertilizing, watering, removal of old dry turf, as well as aeration.
Care activities include the use of various types of garden tools and equipment. Is a cultivator included in the list of technical devices? Or maybe you need another device? The reader wants to know if the procedure of the cultivator passing through the planted grass in the fall will not affect and will it grow again? Let's figure it out.
The cultivator is a power-driven mechanism for cultivating the soil by rotating the cutters, a serious assistant in digging the soil.
The types of cultivators differ in size and type of drive: manual, gasoline, electric, battery. They can plow the ground to a depth of 8 cm for ultra-light models up to 32 cm for heavy weights. The decisive factor when choosing is the power and weight of the unit, as well as the purpose of its use - from plowing virgin lands to digging land in greenhouse beds.
Cultivators are used to dig up land for various purposes
What happens if we walk the lawn with a cultivator? The cutters of the unit will cut into the soil at a given depth and take out the greens along with the roots, crush part of the turf, and some will be buried in the ground. If you leave the result as it is, then after a while new shoots will go from the whole remnants of the rhizomes of cereals, and friendly shoots of weeds will appear in areas of bare, dug soil. In my opinion, this event is a pointless waste of time: the grass will grow again, but the lawn will be with bald patches, irregularities and weeds.
It makes sense to dig up a plot with sown grass with a cultivator if the appearance of the lawn does not suit you at all and you need to revive it. In this case, you simply grind everything with the help of a machine, then take out the sod, debris, tillering nodes that are on the surface. Add sand and peat where necessary. Next, proceed to leveling, tamping and moistening the soil. Only then do you sow the lawn grass seeds again.
There is another procedure that is very helpful in keeping your green area rug looking great, and it is called scarification. For it, you will need a special device, which I will discuss below.
A scarifier is a device that looks like a lawn mower and is equipped with special knives or cutters for cleaning the lawn from weeds, dry grass, debris, moss and cutting the root system for better tillering.
To get a better idea of its effect on the lawn, imagine that you are walking on the turf with a rake, but only self-propelled and powerful. Electric or gasoline scarifiers differ in weight, power, and width of the treated area.
There are both manual and automated models for every taste and wallet.
Scarification must be carried out, first of all, in order to enable cereal grasses to receive nutrients, moisture and air in full. Over time, the roots of the plants get tangled in a hard felt, are compacted with last year's uncombed remnants of dry shoots, and the lawn loses its former attractiveness. This usually occurs after 4 years of the life of the turf. The scarifier pulls out the tangled felt, cuts the root ball, thereby allowing the plant to breathe, stimulates root formation and the growth of new shoots. Moisture and nutrients easily flow directly to the roots. This procedure is carried out in June, once a year will be enough.
Electric models of scarifiers cost from 3500 rubles and more
You can buy an aerator, and some make simplified models with their own hands.
Aerators can also be used to gain air and fertilizer access to the roots. These tools are available in gasoline, electric or manual, and can pierce the soil with needles or tines. The simplest manual aerator is a pitchfork. The first aeration is best done in the third year after sowing. Do not forget to mow the grass before the procedure, and then comb it out.
If the lawn is more than three years old, sanding will help to freshen it up a little. With its help, the emergence of new upper roots is achieved. The sand is used dry, with a grain size of 0.6–1.2 mm. You need to pour 1 liter per 1 square meter. With an overgrown lawn, you can use the land. We spread sand or earth on the grass and level it with a rake.
Timely top dressing will definitely not damage the lawn
Do not forget about top dressing: the beginning of April is early spring. You can walk through the snow that is about to melt. Either nitrogen or urea is used. After the second mowing, we use 200 grams of complex fertilizer per hundred square meters (for example, Kemira wagon). In August we also give nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and in September (until 15-20) only phosphorus 300-400 grams and potassium 400-500 grams per hundred square meters. In total, we make 6 dressings per season. If liquid fertilizers are used, the turf should be watered first, then fertilized. When granules are used, we shed the lawn after feeding.
Compliance with these measures will help you maintain a healthy and beautiful lawn on the site.
The question was answered by specialist in landscape design Natalya Isaenkova
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In a pleasant garden lawn - big or small - always present.
The green carpet creates the backdrop for a beneficial gardening experience.
Of course without lawn can be dispensed with. But this means leaving the land on the site without natural cover, and the site itself without an important element of the composition.
Therefore, the overwhelming majority of those who have decided to build or have already built their own house make a choice in favor of green grass lawn... Modern lawn Is a multifunctional, technological and creative landscape design tool.
"A garden without a lawn is not a garden!" Many will agree with this statement, but not all. Have lawn besides the advantages, there are also disadvantages - lawn care takes quite a long time, large areas sown lawn often look monotonous, not all conditions are suitable for growing a lawn.
Of course, you shouldn't give up lawn completely, but it is quite possible to reduce its area by reasonably replacing it with other materials. Alternative to the lawn.
Firstly, in small gardens, or in front of the house, more paving can be used by placing containers of flowers on it and leaving small flower beds. In many countries where there are problems with water, this technique is used everywhere. Thus, the absence of a lawn and a large amount of paving can be considered a characteristic feature of the Spanish-Moorish garden.
In addition to tiles or stone, apply gravel, in its pure form, or arrange a gravel garden. Gravel gardens create in open, sunny places. Here, light-loving, drought-resistant plants are planted that do not need frequent watering, and non-woven material is laid under the gravel that inhibits the growth of weeds. Caring for such an area does not take much time.
Away from home, under trees, especially in large areas, you can create a meadow lawn. Unlike an ordinary lawn, it can include various broad-leaved tall grasses, annual and perennial wildflowers, bulbous plants.
I mow such lawns once in the fall, they are more resistant to droughts, do not require regular feeding. In order for these areas not to turn into thickets of weeds over time, the area for them must be prepared especially carefully and in the future, from time to time, remove unwanted vegetation.
A good substitute for a grass lawn in natural-style plots can be white clover lawn... It creates a dense, low coverage in sunny areas. It does not need frequent mowing, since the average plant height does not exceed 10-15cm, does not require additional fertilizing. Possessing a powerful root system, clover is drought-resistant, it strengthens the slopes well, and is resistant to trampling.
In various parts of the garden, where the grass grows poorly or it is difficult to mow it - on the slopes, in the shade, under deciduous trees, in wet areas, ground cover plants can be planted.
Their assortment is large enough and you can choose the types most suitable for areas with different conditions of humidity and illumination. Since most ground cover plants are not designed to be walked on, they are planted in large groups where no one walks or along footpaths.
In the first year or two, while the ground cover plants are growing, it is necessary to carefully monitor their growth and development, and regularly remove weeds. But once rooted, they actively grow, suppressing weeds and practically do not require maintenance.
The author of the article, landscape designer Maslova Tatyana.
Autumn digging is a controversial issue today, and experienced gardeners who prefer spring cultivation of the land also justify it:
At the expense of the depth of digging - agronomists have proven that it is the top five to ten centimeters of the soil layer that have one hundred percent usefulness, the further into the depths, the poorer the soil. Turning the layer over to the bayonet of a shovel, we bury the beneficial microorganisms in the fertile soil, and the top layer turns out to be destroyed, lifeless, infertile. By nature, biological soil becomes passive from active, and it needs time to recover, which we simply do not give it, according to our annual habit.
It also happens that suddenly, in the allotted area for the garden, the fertile layer is small and during deep digging, the sub-arable layer gets up. And it can consist of sand, podzolic non-fertile soil, clay. They, mixing with the already cultivated soil, reduce its fertility, and this area will constantly need additional fertilization.
Heavy clay soils contain many nutrients and are "greasy" soils. It is physically difficult for farmers to dig up and loosen such soils. In the spring they swim away from the water, in the summer they dry out very much and turn into "asphalt" and it is problematic to grow crops in such areas. As a rule, it is always recommended to improve the structure of the soil by introducing organic matter, plant residues, peat or sand into it. Sand is becoming the most affordable material for summer residents. And here "pitfalls" appear.
What sand will improve the soil structure?
Two types of sand are widespread: river and quarry (construction). With quarry sand, the soil structure will not improve. On the contrary, even more clay will be added to the site. It is only necessary to bring in river sand. It differs from the quarry in its flowability, light color and, when dry, crumbles. Quarry sand has reddish (reddish) shades and sticks together in the hands. Such sand is used only for construction, in children's sandboxes.
Adding river sand to the soil: pros and cons
Having a coarse-grained structure, river sand is recommended to bring about 2 buckets per square meter of soil. Having scattered the sand, it must be evenly redistributed (mixed) in the soil, at least 15.20 cm of the layer. And such work requires physical strength. Over the course of several years, heavy sand with precipitation, irrigation moves to the lower layers of the soil and the earth does not become looser from this. River sand needs to be applied often and one application of it to the soil will not give a result. Such sand is useful in potting mixes for growing seedlings, rooting cuttings.
Sand contains few nutrients and from this side it is practically useless, unlike organic matter.
A sports lawn is essential on sports grounds where football, volleyball, badminton, and golf are played. The composition of the grass mixture is dominated by stable tough grasses that form a powerful sod, for example, perennial ryegrass, sheep or red fescue, meadow bluegrass ... Such a lawn is not afraid of either a soccer ball or a football player's sneakers. You will need to mow the sports lawn at least once a week. When sowing, it should be borne in mind that if few seeds sprout, the lawn will be of poor quality, without a dense grass cover (and possibly with bald spots), when sowing a large number of seeds, thickening of the crops is possible and, as a result, damping of certain areas.
Special types of lawns are used to strengthen the soil, for example, along the banks of ditches. Whichever type of lawn you choose, you need to take care of it, which will take time and a special tool. The lawn is mowed at least once every 7-10 days (during the white nights, once every 6-7 days). The mowing height is about 5-6 cm. To achieve an even surface of the lawn, it is mowed in two directions, so that when the grass is lying, it is not mowed.