The wrinkled rose is a species with an erect bushy habit native to Asia, China, Japan, Korea that can reach a height of sixty centimeters. It has also found diffusion in Europe and North America where it is cultivated in particular for ornamental and decorative purposes. The wrinkled rose has a round shape and green leaves with veins and, indeed, wrinkled; they are in turn formed by a group of five to nine smaller elongated leaves with a serrated outline that have many roughnesses on their surface, during the autumn season these leaves take on very beautiful colors. This plant has many thorns on leaves and branches that are no longer young. The flowers of the wrinkled rose they are quite large, they are born solitary or in groups, they are white in color and have a very delicate scent. The stamens only yellow in color. The fruits of this plant are small round berries of bright red color. From the crossing of this rose with other species, many hybrids with different and beautiful colors have been born, some names may be: Blanc Double de Coubert, Nyveldt's White, Thérèse Bugnet, Scabrosa, F.J. Grootendorst, Hansa etc.
The rugosa rose is easy to cultivate as it is very robust, it resists very cold seasons, windy and polluted environments but also typical diseases of roses such as rust. It prefers bright areas and needs a few hours of sun a day, but it resists very well and also develops in places rich in shade. As previously mentioned, the wrinkled rose also tolerates very low temperatures well, but in winter it will still be advisable to mulch the roots in order to protect them from possible frosts.
The wrinkled rose is not very demanding regarding the type of soil, it can resist and grow even in poor and arid soils; however this prefers a soil rich in organic substances, possibly a little acid, rather deep and well drained. When buying soil for the wrinkled rose it is good to choose a peat enriched with humus or manure, always being careful not to exceed the quantity of manure as it could burn the plant. If you decide to grow this rose in a pot, it is good to place a layer of about 8 cm of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot to avoid any water stagnation that can lead to mold and in the most serious cases to root rot with the consequent death of the plant.
Being a very vigorous plant and having roots that require a large space for development, the rugosa rose is not suitable for growing in pots, however, if you decide to grow the plant in pot, you need to provide the right space for the development of the apparatus. radical.
The planting is done during the spring or autumn season; before planting the roses, the soil must be worked and mulched on the bottom with manure and leaf soil.
The wrinkled rose fears water stagnation, it will therefore be advisable to water the soil again when it has completely dried up. The water must be administered approximately every fifteen to twenty days; naturally, in the event of heavy rains, the water intake must be decreased as in the case of the winter season. Although not suitable for this type of rose, pot cultivation can be done, in this case we will have to increase the frequency of watering and change the soil every two or three years.
At the beginning of spring the vegetative restart will take place, so it will be necessary to proceed with the administration every month of a fertilizer particularly rich in nitrogen and potassium that favors the development of new shoots; this fertilizer will be of the liquid type and will be mixed with the irrigation water. Towards the end of winter, mature manure must be added to the base of the plant.
Like other roses, rugosa also has different multiplication techniques: by cuttings, by offshoots, by grafting and micropropagation.
The multiplication by cuttings is certainly the most used, as it allows to have new plants perfectly identical to the mother one; it can be divided into woody or apical cutting depending on the part of the plant used for reproduction. All rose propagation techniques are very well explained in the “garden” section in the “roses” section.
As we explained in the previous paragraphs, this type of rose has a very vigorous development, during the spring season, therefore, it can be pruned to contain its excessive growth.
The rugosa rose blooms from June to December. The flowers can develop singly or in groups; they are white with pale yellow molds and can be up to nine centimeters in diameter. They have the characteristic of having a very sweet and delicate fragrance. Many hybrids have been created from the main species, with very varied and particularly beautiful colors.
Like roses in general, wrinkled roses are particularly attacked by diseases, parasites and fungi. Preventive treatments with pesticides and fungicide products can be carried out. To find out more, read the section “roses-diseases of roses” carefully in the "garden" section.
On the market, in nurseries and specialized shops, you can choose the wrinkled rose you like best and admire the large number of hybrids with magnificent colors. This rose is easy to grow and requires little specific care.
The wrinkled rose has many varieties, now we will tell you about some of them. Rosa rugosa alba: this variety is native to China and is mainly used to decorate flower beds, gardens, roadsides, etc. It is very resistant to various bad weather and easy to grow as it does not require special and difficult care. It has a shrubby habit and can reach a height of sixty centimeters. It prefers to be grown in a sunny position but can also grow in the shade. It does not require particular types of soil. It has marked green leaves and during the spring-summer season it produces pale white-pink flowers, while in the autumn it emits red-orange fruits.
Rosa rugosa scabrosa: it is a variety that has leaves with many veins, very beautiful flowers that blossomed from spring to summer and very colorful winter fruits that are excellent for making jams. It prefers cultivation in full sun and a very well drained soil that is slightly clayey or calcareous. The flowers have a pleasant scent. Rosa rugosa hansa: it is the most common hybrid of the rugosa rose. The flowers of this variety have a red-fuchsia color and have a very particular fragrance. The hansa rose can reach considerable heights of a few meters and is very resistant to the attack of diseases.
Rosa rugosa belle poitevine: it is a hybrid of the main species, it has quite large pink flowers with frizzy petals and a strong fragrance. It can reach a height of eight meters. It has dark green leaves, bushy habit, resists poor soils and shady areas, even if it prefers to be grown in the light.
Rosa rugosa Amélie Gravereaux: It is a variety that emits large blooms of a red-fuchsia color with a delicate scent. It has a shrubby habit and can also develop in semi-shady areas.
Rosa rugosa Sir Thomas Lipton: This variety features double flowers of medium size and white color with yellow molds. It has a medium vigorous development and repeated flowering.
Rosa rugosa Wasagaming: has mauve pink flowers that bloomed during the summer, have a very strong scent. It is a variety used mainly to build hedges, it is very resistant to cold. It reaches large sizes.
Rosa rugosa Rugelda: it is particularly resistant to diseases. It develops delicately scented yellow-orange flowers. It has glossy leaves of a rather dark green color.
Rosa rugosa rubra: produces large, solitary flowers with a light scent. It is a very disease-resistant variety, originally from Japan. It can tolerate shady places.
Robusta rugosa rose: develops solitary, beautiful deep red flowers. It is very suitable for building a very sturdy hedge.
Rosa rugosa romantic roadrunner: it has a bushy habit that can reach a good size, it is a very robust variety that produces many flowers of a bluish-pink color.
Rosa rugosa Linda Campbell: it is a variety suitable for forming hedges, it produces red flowers with a pleasant, not particularly intense scent.
Rosa rugosa foxi pavement: the flowers of this hybrid are pink and have an intense perfume; the leaves are opaque green, it blooms during the summer and autumn seasons.
Rosa rugosa Blanc Double de Coubert: produces many double white flowers with yellow stamens, has a bushy habit and is very resistant to diseases.
Rosa rugosa FJ grootendorst: this variety is very particular as it develops small flowers collected in clusters, they have a red-fuchsia color with a delicate scent. It can be easily grown in pots and is not particularly prone to diseases. It can also be placed in a moderately shaded place.
Rosa rugosa Fimbriata: the flowers of this hybrid have a very light pink color and a strong scent, they are small and the final part of the petals is not uniform.
Rosa rugosa grootendorst Supreme: develops beautiful dark red-burgundy flowers with a strong fragrance; they are small in size and come together in clusters. It has a bushy habit and vigorous development. The leaves are very beautiful.
Rosa rugosa striped rugosa moore: has red petals spotted with white with a light scent. It blooms during the summer and develops large flowers. The leaves are shiny.
Rosa rugosa Mrs. Pike Doreen: the flowers develop in a rosette and are large, have a delicate pink color and a strong scent. It has a bushy habit.
Rosa rugosa berries are edible and very useful for preparing jams or liqueurs but also other dishes, for example a puree made with these fruits was served to Queen Victoria.
There rose it is the most used as a hedge for the beauty of its flowers and its scent, moreover it lends itself better to being grown in the garden in the ground rather than as a pot plant. Its needs are different according to the variety, but in general the rose needs a sunny to semi-shady exposure, scarce watering and a periodic fertilization of the soil. The rose varieties best known for the scent of their flowering are the Rosa Rugosa and the Portland Rose.
The wrinkled rose is quite a hedge cold resistant, and should not be placed in a too sunny place in the garden. Its flowers spread a delicate scent and have colors ranging from white to pink to purple, but they bloom from May-June to last for a couple of months at the most. The rose that was dedicated to the Duchess of Portland is perhaps the absolute more fragrant variety. A very special hedge for your garden, which also has the advantage of blooming all year round: however, it needs the careful care of a more experienced gardener.
The Rose is considered the queen of flowers.
It is a plant that includes about 150 species, numerous varieties with infinite hybrids and cultivars (every year, hundreds of new varieties are created all over the world), native to Europe and Asia, varying in height from 20 cm to several meters, includes bushy, sarmentose, climbing species , creeping, shrubs and small or large flowered trees, in bunches, panicles or solitary, simple or double, achene fruits conutenuti in a false fruit (rosehip) the spontaneous species in Italy are over 30 of which we remember the R. canina la more common.
Roses can be divided into 5 large groups:
1. Ancient Roses (eg. R. Moschata, R. Bourbon, R. Gallica, R. Muscosa, R. Chinensis.)
2. Modern Roses (eg Floribunda Roses, Hybrid Tea, English Roses.)
3. Climbing roses
4. Wrinkled Roses
5. Wild Roses (Botanical)
At the garden of the Angels they are present:
Rosa "Serenella":Lilliputian rose trained as a sapling produces small lemon yellow flowers, not perfumed. Deciduous leaves.
The group of Lilliputian roses, also known as mini roses or miniature roses, includes rustic deciduous shrubs, with significantly smaller leaves and flowers.
Lilliputian roses were created in the nineteenth century starting from the minimum Rosa chinensis.
Pink "Wall Street": it has a large and beautifully shaped flower with warm shades of the double color of the petals, intense yellow on the outside and orange-red inside. Fragrant flowers.
The plant is very vigorous with glossy foliage, deciduous and very re-flowering. The re-flowering continues until late autumn when the lower insolation makes the colors even more vivid.
Height cm. 80/100.
Rosa Iceberg: pure white pink, the buds are elegant and the flowers are double and fragrant. Very re-flowering until winter. Vigorous plant, with deciduous leaves, resistant to diseases. Height cm. 70/90.
English Rose "Pat Austin": very re-flowering English rose produces large, deep cupped flowers with a strong scent, bright copper orange on one side of the petals and coppery yellow on the reverse of the petals. It forms a bush about 120 cm high.
Rosa Mirato: compact shrub that reaches 50-60 cm in height. Deciduous foliage, bright dark green. Very re-flowering from May until December. Intense pink flower, semi-double, 5 cm in diameter. Self-cleaning cultivar, that is, it naturally loses its faded flowers.
Pink Primrose(Incense Rose): belongs to the Pimpinellifoliae group and is a botanical species native to Central Asia, introduced in Europe a century ago, in 1910.
It produces a vigorous bush about two meters in height and diameter.
It has very thorny branches that change from red to brown. the leaves are very small.
The flowers are simple, with light yellow petals that are very light and at the slightest breeze, they move like butterfly wings. The fruits are small and reddish.
It has a very particular feature: on rainy days and at certain times of the day, its leaves emit an intense scent of incense that spreads into the air in humid weather.
It is a disease resistant and very rustic plant
Climbing Rose Banksiae "Alba Plena" Evergreen climbing rose, of remarkable vigor. The foliage is light green and abundant, the stems thornless and soft. The intense flowering lasts a maximum of a month and a half, usually in April and May, the flowers are small - double, rosette, white
It can reach 9 meters in height, so it is very suitable for covering canopies, gazebos and pergolas.
Climbing Rose "Arthur Bell"Climbing rose, yellow flower, fragrant.
Climbing Rose "Claire Matin"Noisette deciduous climber.
Noisette is a family of roses that descends from the cross between an Old Blush Chinese rose and a Muscat rose. Many noisette can be used excellently as climbers.
This family is characterized by the elegance of the shapes and the re-flowering in some cases truly amazing.
The "Claire Matin" produces clusters of small fragrant flowers, light pink tending to salmon. Flowering is continuous.
It reaches 3 meters in height.
Rosa X Chinensis "Mutabilis": the origins of Rosa chinensis 'Mutabilis' are practically unknown. The only certain fact is that it was donated to the Swiss nurseryman Henri Corrévon, by the Borromeo family, owner of Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore and it is now certain that it was introduced in Europe in the 18th century.
It has a shrubby habit and forms a bush with fairly erect stems that carry fairly large thorns. It can reach 2-2.5 meters in height.
It produces very graceful flowers, with 5 well-spaced petals, carried in bunches on the apexes of the branches, slightly wavy and with simple corollas, whose particularity is that of being iridescent according to the different stages of the flower: they arise as dark red buds and so on that open, take on different colors. At first orange then coppery pink and finally crimson with a center full of large and golden stamens.
Flowering is very prolonged in the season and continues, it stops, as with all roses, they are in the hottest period of summer.
The leaves also undergo color changes as they mature. Initially they are crimson red in color and then become more bronze until they take on a dark green color.
The foliage is semi-persistent.
Rosa Rugosait is a species with an erect bushy habit of 1- 2 meters of height, little ramified, it forms extended branches with the underground shoots.
It has leaves composed of 5-9 oblong, toothed, very corrugated leaflets (hence the name "wrinkled"). The branches are very thorny, with singularly tomentose thorns.
The flowers are fragrant, purple in color. Flowering continues throughout the summer so that we can find the already ripe berry on the same branch next to the flower that has just blossomed.
As with other rose species, this one also has numerous varieties.
At the Garden there is also the Rosa Rugosa “Alba"With white flowers.
Roses are not very demanding plants as regards the soil, and have been shown to be able to develop even in unfavorable conditions for an optimal result, however, it is advisable to plant these plants in a good ground light, rich in organic matter and well drained, with a pH close to 6.5 (sub-acid).
The land for the plantation must be "new" that is virgin to the cultivation of roses.
This is because rosaceae cause fatigue to the soil as the roots of these plants leave toxins in the soil that prevent other roses from developing. If you want to plant roses in the same place, it is advisable to change the soil for at least 30 cm of depth around the new plants.
Before planting, it is good to work the soil and enrich it with organic matter.
If the soil is very heavy and clayey, it can be improved, at the time of planting, by adding a small amount of sand and good balanced universal soil.
In choosing the ideal position for the roses, remember that most of the rose gardens prefer sunny locations, which receive direct sunlight for at least six hours a day in regions with very hot climates, it is advisable to choose a place in the garden that enjoys shade in the late afternoon.
Over the years, roses develop a good root system, deep and well branched, this allows us to water them sporadically, from March to September, only in the case of long periods of drought.
There pruning it is the most important operation for the future life of these plants, as well as for flowering. When it is well done it corrects its shape, stimulating the vegetation and significantly influencing the flowering.
It is carried out by eliminating all the suckers that sprout under the graft and weaken the rose, all the dry or damaged branches and the old ones are cut. As a general rule, three to four buds should be left on the weaker branches and five to six buds on the strongest branches. Always prune in correspondence with the buds facing outwards with a slightly oblique cut.
Pruning must be done in the winter months before the plant has started to vegetate again. The best time is the period of 2-3 weeks before the vegetative restart, that is from 15-20 January to 15-20 March, depending on the latitude, the exposure and the altitude you should never prune during the months of intense cold
When planting, all roses, regardless of their family, should be pruned 20-30 cm from the ground. For the following years the pruning will depend on the family they belong to.
Pruning of the roses in the Garden:
The reblooming roses(Rosa Mirato, Rosa "Pat Austin", Rosa Iceberg, Rosa "Wall Street”) Can be pruned in February-March, when the intense frosts are now over. Here too the general principles of removing dead branches, those that are damaged or thin, apply. Usually, 4-5 healthy branches are left, sometimes even 7, depending on the plant, trying to give the bush a harmonious, enlarged shape, like a hand with the fingers pointing upwards.
In the summer, just remove the withered flowers. Shorten the withered branches by 10-15 cm always cut up to the first "Complete" leaf, the first with 5 leaves!
In addition to winter pruning, in summer the withered flowers are removed by shortening the stem 3-4 leaves below the flowers themselves, this favors the emission of new flowering shoots and prevents the plant from wasting energy for the formation of berries.
The non-re-flowering climbing roses(Banksiae "Alba Plena ) should be pruned at the end of flowering in May-June and at the end of winter the lateral twigs are shortened to a length of about 10-15 cm, to keep the plant thicker.
Pruning is used to contain the high vigor of this climber, so if it is placed in a situation where it can develop freely, it requires few interventions: simply remove the oldest branches.
Re-flowering climbing roses ("Arthur Bell", "Claire Matin") need a vigorous pruning of the lateral branches, leaving 3-5 buds per branch. The main branches must be bent in an arch to favor the emission of lateral flowering branches. Old main branches should be cut at the base to facilitate the growth of new branches near the roots.
Rosa X Chinensis "Mutabilis: it is never drastically pruned, a long pruning is carried out and the oldest parts are eliminated. Pruning aims to contain the development of the shrub.
Wrinkled Roses: at the end of winter, a light pruning is carried out to contain excessive growth and every 2/3 years a more drastic renewal pruning because it tends to strip a little at the bottom.
Fertilization: in general two fertilizations are practiced per year, in February and in June, using mature organic fertilizer, or slow release fertilizer.
Many growing problems can be avoided by providing plants with an adequate environment:
- sunny exposure, at least six hours of sunshine a day for most of the rose bushes.
- right irrigation, to keep the soil fresh but not soft, better a lot of water every now and then a little every day.
- avoid wetting the leaves so as not to favor the development of molds, then irrigate at the foot of the plant.
- manure fertilization every year, which also ensures relative mulching to the plants.
To simplify the various problems that damage roses, the different causes can be grouped into: environmental pathologies, fungal parasites, damage from insects and animals.
The environmental causesthey are an unsuitable soil lacking in nutritional elements, this causes a general deterioration of the Rosa plant, with manifestations of scarce flowering and yellowing of the leaves.
According to the deficient nutrient, these symptoms occur:
- deficiencies of Nitrogen cause: generalized discoloration of the plant and more pronounced leaf yellowing in the basal areas stunted vegetation with scarce flowering with faded flowers.
- deficiencies of Phosphorus manifest themselves with: bronze-violet color of the leaves, poor growth and floral ramifications that curve in S.
- deficiencies of Potassium: desiccation at the edge of the leaves that can curve into a U, the flowers have little color and are small in size.
- deficiencies of Magnesium they lead to yellowing of the basal leaves in the area of the central rib and quickly dry up, detaching prematurely.
- deficiencies of Football they can lead to opacity of the leaves and folds downwards. The laminae dry mainly at the edges and at the apex.
- deficiencies of Iron they cause progressive yellowing from the apex to the bottom of the plant with drying of the leaves and no or very scarce flowering.
Parasitic adversities due to fungi
One of the most frequent problems on roses is the proliferation of fungal or cryptogamic diseases, more commonly called "molds" due to the appearance of their fruiting which generally cover the attacked plant.
These pathogens, if not fought in time, can destroy flowers and plants in a short time.
They are favored by humid or rainy climatic situations, and more afflict Roses with nutritional deficiencies.
- Dryness of the stems, canker of the branches and cracks
Red-purple depressed areas appear on the stems and branches which subsequently dry up with a crack in the bark.
Defense: the fight is mainly based on prophylaxis criteria, such as the destruction of the dried parts during pruning and with the careful disinfection of the tools used. Preventive chemical treatments with cupric fungicides or with synthetic organic preparations.
- Basal or collar rot
The young plants show browning and rot at the level of the collar. The plant first turns yellow then dries up quickly.
Root rot is favored by stagnation of water in the soil due to excessive irrigation or bad drainage. The first thing to do to combat rot (both root and collar) is to partially replace the soil and implement a correct watering. If, despite these precautions, a fungal attack should still occur, it is necessary to use the appropriate fungicides available on the market.
- Powdery mildew or white mal
White felted spots appear on the leaves, flower and apexes of the branches. The flowers do not open or wither.
Defense: sulfur and dinocap (Bitertanol - bupirimate - fenarinol - propiconazolo - pirazafos - triforine) see also Coreopsis data sheet
- Mold of leaves and buds
On the leaves and especially on the flowers, ash-gray molds appear which then rot. The buds remain closed and covered by a greyish mold until the bud itself dries up. The attack on the leaves usually occurs in the presence of a lot of rain or very humid periods. In the open air the conditions are more unfavorable to the formation of mold.
Defense: dicarboxymide derivatives (vinclozolin - procymidone - iprodione)
On the upper part of the leaf there are yellow spots and on the lower part orange pustules that can become powdery. In the hottest months of the year, these pustules turn black and the leaves dry up and fall off.
During the vegetative period or when the rose buds hatch, it is recommended to carry out treatments with. However, keep in mind that these products must first be tested to check if the rose cultivar to be treated is not sensitive to these chemical compounds.
Defense: winter treatments must be carried out with cupric products or with polysulphides. Starting from the opening of the flower buds, it is advisable to administer Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychlorides and dithiocarbamates (the latter also useful against scab). Sterol biosynthesis inhibitors (IBS), such as dodemorf, pencozanol, fenarimol, etc. are very effective.
- Downy mildew
On the upper page of the leaves yellowish areas appear, while on the lower page in correspondence of these appears a white mold. This disease is favored by high humidity and spring temperatures (temperatures above 10 ° C, optimal 18 ° C and wet vegetation for a few hours)
Defense: it is essentially based on the use of copper-based products to be used when the conditions of development of the fungus occur, or Captano or Zineb. In very critical periods, anti-peronosporic products with systemic action can be used (ie they enter the tissues and the lymph circulation ensuring more effective protection).
Confluent blackish or purplish spots appear on the leaves. The affected leaves dry up and fall rapidly, quickly stripping the whole plant.
Defense: the chemical fight is based on the use of benzimidazoles, triforins, chlorothalonil, mancozeb or maneb (treatments every 7 or 15 days depending on the severity of the case).
Insects or animal parasites that affect roses
- Aphids or Lice
It is the most formidable category of insects because in addition to the direct damage caused by the subtraction of lymph and the transmission of viral forms, there is also the production of the unsightly honeydew with the call of ants and subsequent formation of "fumaggini".
They cover all the young parts of the plant and lead to rapid wilting due to the subtraction of sap.
Defense: there are natural predators that control its spread, such as adults and larvae of Coleoptera coccinellida, larvae of Diptera hoverflies, Hymenoptera parasites, etc. However, their action is insufficient to keep this aphid within tolerable levels of infestation. It is therefore necessary to carry out one or more treatments with aficid preparations: pirimicarb, acefate, pyrethrins, peritroids.
- Tentredini and Larvae
They can be of various types: from green or yellow caterpillars or moth larvae, to adult insects such as beetles. They eat leaves, flowers or buds.
They suck the sap like aphids, differ in being almost motionless and live protected by white or pinkish yellow waxy shields.
- Larvae of mining moths
They are microlepidoptera larvae that "undermine" the green area of the leaf leaving the cuticle intact. The leaves wither and fall.
Sono farfalline succhiatrici che pungono foglie giovani o germogli, sui quali compaiono delle macchie chiare, marmorizzate e sfumate specialmente lungo le nervature e nella parte centrale della foglie ed insetti che saltellano. Gli organi colpiti presentano si accartocciano con colorazioni argenteo
Difesa: intervenire sulle rose con insetticidi specifici a base di Acefate, Piretro o Diazinone anche se il più delle volte non è opportuno trattare.
- Acari o Ragnetti rossi
Sono minuscoli ragni che provocano con le loro punture sulle foglie ingiallimenti che in seguito disseccano totalmente. Sono molto mobili e quando attaccano massicciamente la pianta producono anche piccole ragnatele. Foto
- Larve terricole e millepiedi
Appartengono a vari ordini di insetti da lepidotteri a coleotteri o elateridi. Danneggiano radici e parti basse delle piante.
Già nell'antichità la coltivazione della rosa era diffusissima, sia come piante ornamentali che per le proprietà officinali ed aromatiche con l'estrazione degli oli essenziali.
Come pianta medicinale si utilizzano oltre ai petali con proprietà astringenti, anche le foglie come antidiarroico, i fruttiricchi di vitamina C diuretici, sedativi, astringenti e vermifughi, i semi per l'azione antielmintica (in grado di eliminare svariati tipi di vermi o elminti, che possono infestare l'organismo, insediandosi come parassiti), e perfino le galle prodotte dagli insetti del genere Cynips ricche di tannini per le proprietà diuretiche e sudorifere.
In aromaterapia vengono attribuite all'olio di rosa proprietà afrodisiache, sedative, antidepressive, antidolorifiche, antisettiche, toniche del cuore, dello stomaco, del fegato, regolatrici del ciclo mestruale.
Le giovani foglie delle rose spontanee servono per la preparazione di un tè di rosa.
Il nome, secondo alcuni, deriverebbe dalla parola sanscrita vrad o vrod, che significa flessibile. Secondo altri, invece, il nome deriverebbe dalla parola celtica rhood o rhuud, che significa rosso
La famiglia delle Rosaceae comprende la maggior parte degli alberi da frutto più comuni: il melo, il pero, il ciliegio, il pesco, il susino, il mandorlo, il nespolo, il sorbo, l'albicocco, il cotogno
Nella suddivisione delle rose in sottofamiglie (botaniche, antiche e moderne), quelle antiche meritano una menzione particolare per il profumo, la rusticità e lo sviluppo solitamente notevole. Ci sono infatti “liane” (come la Mermaid) che hanno crescite ragguardevoli anche fino a 10 metri, le rifiorenti che hanno una crescita moderata fino a 4 metri e fioriscono 2-3 volte all’anno, e le varietà a unica fioritura annuale, che sono la maggioranza.
Per avere un risultato ottimo occorre ponderare bene la scelta se si vuole ottenere, in termini di effetto visivo, e scegliere di conseguenza una rosa rampicante adeguata allo scopo.
La creazione di una varietà di rosa rampicante può avvenire sostanzialmente in due modi: ibridando due varietà di rose che per sviluppo, portamento e robustezza possono, all’occhio attento dell’ibridatore, generare una nuova varietà con caratteristiche migliorate a confronto dei genitori, o più comunemente per mutazione spontanea da una varietà di rosa a cespuglio già esistente.
La rosa rampicante 'Mermaid', creata da W. Paul, è di diretta derivazione dalla Rosa bracteata, cioè è stata ottenuta per ibridazione fra una R. bracteata e una rosa Tea di colore giallo, in Inghilterra nel 1917.
Il pittore Monet adorava questo fiore e aveva questa rosa piantata nel giardino della casa a Giverny. Con questa rosa possiamo creare barriere impenetrabili contro gli intrusi e contro gli animali selvatici.
La 'Mermaid' ha un portamento rampicante molto vigoroso tanto da attribuirle il termine di rampicante lianosa. Raggiunge in pochi anni la lunghezza di 10 metri e oltre per un’altezza di più di 9 metri. Ha foglie di colore verde lucido brillante leggermente allungate con internodi ben distanziati, presenta una invidiabile spinosità formata da una moltitudine di robuste spine di colore rossiccio molto incurvate che la rendono impenetrabile agli animali o intrusi. Il colore del fiore è giallo paglierino chiaro leggermente profumato a cinque petali, non produce bacche se non eccezionalmente.
Al contrario della maggior parte delle rose, questa rampicante antica tollera molto bene posizioni ombreggiate, non penalizzando affatto la fioritura che da inizio maggio è pressoché ininterrotta fino ai primi freddi.
Per le sue caratteristiche di robustezza ne possiamo ammirare esemplari anche in montagna dove cresce tranquillamente fino ai 700 metri di altitudine, mentre per la forma piatta del suo fiore si adatta bene anche a zone molto ventose in riva al mare.
Se si acquista un esemplare già notevolmente cresciuto, la pianta produrrà subito fiori in abbondanza. La messa dimora per piante in vaso può essere fatta tutto l’anno tranne nei mesi più caldi o più freddi. Una buona posizione, essendo una varietà che sopporta bene l’ombra, potrebbe essere a ridosso di un muro che la proteggerà nei periodi critici invernali.
Per chi invece preferisce acquistare piante a radice nuda, quindi molto più piccole, il procedimento per l’impianto è uguale a quello per le piante in vaso, ma il periodo ideale per la messa a dimora è novembre (dicembre per Centro e Sud Italia) oppure febbraio (anche gennaio sempre per Centro e Sud).
Per questa tipologia di rosaio occorre prestare attenzione all’irrigazione che deve essere costante e meticolosa, e il concime che non deve entrare assolutamente in contatto diretto con le radici, pena la bruciatura della pianta.
Non richiede potature costanti, ma solo sporadicamente alcuni tagli di rinnovo.
Molto rustica e resistente alle malattie, può solo soffrire al massimo di oidio. Buona tecnica agronomica è limitare al minimo l’uso di prodotti chimici. La prima regola è evitare stress alla pianta tenendola regolarmente irrigata e concimata una adeguata potatura e i trattamenti invernali a base di poltiglia bordolese e olio bianco da distribuire abbondantemente tutto intorno alla pianta aiuteranno a eliminare le spore dei funghi e le uova dei parassiti svernanti, mentre durante il periodo di vegetazione ci limiteremo a eseguire dei trattamenti curativi.
In collaborazione con Vivai Veimaro
Una siepe di caprifoglio cresce rapidamente fino ai 5 metri e fiorisce a partire da Maggio-Giugnocon un profumo delicato e corolle che variano dal bianco al giallo al rosa pallido. Essendo una pianta rampicante si presta bene a formare delle siepi vicino a muri, graticci o cancelli dove possa appoggiarsi per ricevere dall'alto la luce: infatti mentre i rami hanno bisogno di molto sole, le radici e la parte bassa preferisce il riparo dell'ombra. Un altro utilizzo ideale del caprifoglio come siepe è in accompagnamento ad altre piante arbustive, un altro modo per dare sostegno ai suoi rami rampicanti.