An insufficient amount of nitrogen is often the reason for the abundance of weeds in the beds and in flower beds, the suspension of growth and the yellowing of plant leaves. Mineral fertilizers supply the soil with the necessary nutrients, are easily absorbed and quickly give a noticeable result, and the most commonly used nitrogen fertilizer is ammonium nitrate.
Ammonium nitrate - NH₄NO₃ - is a non-toxic fertilizer that contains 26 to 34% nitrogen: half in the form of ammonium and half in the form of nitrate. It is produced in the form of white or beige granules with a size ranging from 2 mm to 5 mm, and therefore resistant to destruction and caking.
Ammonium nitrate is suitable for all types of soil and helps to improve the quality of crops and increase the decorative effect of the garden.
The fertilizer is not explosive, therefore its transportation, storage and packaging are safe. Ammonium nitrate can sometimes contain fillers such as dolomite flour with calcium and magnesium. This fertilizer is used both in amateur and professional gardening.
Ammonium nitrate is used both for pre-sowing soil cultivation and for plant nutrition. Its main element, nitrogen, easily moves in soils and is quickly washed out by water, therefore, it is better to apply nitrate as a fertilizer in the spring, and when fertilizing the soil in autumn, it may not cope with the task due to precipitation. Ammonium nitrate contains delayed-release nitrogen in the form of ammonium and fast-acting nitrogen in the form of nitrate. After scattering the nitrate granules over the surface, you need to carefully embed them in the soil.
Potatoes, beets and carrots can feel nitrogen deficiency more than other plants. Ammonium nitrate can be applied to the soil before the start of the growing season of the plants at three-week intervals. Fertilizer dissolved in water is poured into grooves along the rows of plants.
Under shrubs and fruit trees, mineral fertilizers can be applied simultaneously with organic ones. The amount and frequency of fertilizing depends on the fertility of the soil, the age and yield of trees and shrubs. In early spring, it is enough to add 30 g of ammonium nitrate to each m² of soil. After flowering, fertilizers are applied to the soil to promote the growth of leaf mass, for example, a solution of 40 g of nitrate, 60 g of urea, 60 g of potassium sulfate and 400 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water. It is possible to carry out foliar feeding of plants with ammonium nitrate with the simultaneous use of means of combating diseases and pests.
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In order for the grass on the lawn to be juicy and bright, and its growth was intense, ammonium nitrate is applied in an amount of 30 g per m², and it is advisable to use them in a liquid form to prevent damage to the grass. Proper care of the green surface and the use of plant protection products against diseases and pests will have a positive effect on the durability and decorative effect of the lawn.
In the photo: Spraying trees with a solution
If you overfeed the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, including ammonium nitrate, excess nitrogen can cause a number of physiological symptoms that must not be ignored:
If you find signs of excess nitrogen in the soil, stop applying ammonium nitrate or any other fertilizer containing nitrogen, and water the soil well several times: the nitrogen is quickly washed out. For some time after this, feed the plants only with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
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Work on fertilizing soil and plants with ammonium nitrate, like any other fertilizer, must be carried out in protective clothing. After completing the procedure, you must thoroughly wash your hands, and send the clothes to the wash. If ammonium nitrate gets in your eyes or on your skin while working, rinse these areas with plenty of water. In case of severe irritation, urgently consult a doctor.
A good harvest on the site is impossible without full-value plant nutrition. All nutrients are important, including nitrogen, which promotes the growth of shoots, stems, leaves, accelerates the development of fruits and seeds. Without this component, photosynthesis is impossible, as a result of which photosynthesis is formed. You can compensate for the lack of nitrogen with the help of urea fertilizer, but you need to know the composition, as well as the rules for using it in the garden.
Urea belongs to concentrated nitrogen compounds, which should not be confused with nitrate, which is harmful to the garden crown. The composition is sold in the form of whitish granules without a pronounced odor. Crystals dissolve faster in water heated to + 80 ° C, which allows the solution to be more easily sprayed on the treated area. The hygroscopic compound should be stored in sealed boxes. Gardeners prefer spraying with urea in autumn, not only for 46% nitrogen concentration in it, but precisely for the intensive digestibility of garden crops that need to be saved from parasites.
When working with urea in the fall, remember:
We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there is a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield up to 50-70%.
We advise you to prepare in advance for the summer season, pay attention to this biological product. There are a lot of positive responses.
Like all nitrogen fertilizers, ammonium nitrate is used in spring and summer, when garden crops are actively growing and need nitrogen. The first application to the garden can be done even before planting by scattering the granules over the site and covering them with a rake into the soil. For 1 sq. m. of land will require from 20 to 50 g of the drug, depending on the composition of the soil. This will be the main feeding.
In the future, ammonium nitrate fertilizer is used in the garden as an additional feeding of vegetables:
It is not recommended to fertilize pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini and squash with ammonium nitrate in order to avoid the accumulation of nitrates.
The last dressing should be done 15-20 days before harvest.
How to use ash in the vegetable garden and garden? She is an excellent organo-mineral fertilizer, with which you can carry out both root and foliar feeding. When fertilizing plants with ash, you need to focus on the needs of your green pets.
It is introduced into excessively acidic soil for plowing, when planting tubers or seedlings, when feeding adult plants. If this is a root top dressing, the introduction of ash must be combined with watering.
It is not recommended to mix ash with organic and ammonia fertilizers (in order to avoid ammonia losses), as well as with water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers (ash reduces the absorption of phosphates by plants).
1. Sow seeds for seedlings. In the first decade of March, indeterminate varieties and hybrids of tomatoes intended for the greenhouse are usually sown on seedlings, after 7-10 days, varieties and hybrids for open ground are sown.
Also at the beginning of March pepper, physalis, early varieties of white cabbage and cauliflower are sown. In the second half of the month - sowing time for late varieties of cabbage, which are intended for long-term winter storage. At the same time, seeds of onions and leeks are sown to obtain a turnip in one year.
2. Cut out the seedlings. If you sowed eggplant or pepper seeds at the end of February in a common container, then around the middle of March, a couple of weeks after germination, the seedlings should be cut into separate pots. Plants by this time should have 1-2 true leaves.
When diving, try to keep lumps of earth on the roots and injure them as little as possible.
3. Feed the seedlings... When sowing eggplant in separate pots at the end of February, they do not need a pick, but two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the plants can be fed with complex mineral fertilizers (1-2 g per 1 liter of water).
Feeding eggplant seedlings
If you have used a potting soil mixture enriched with fertilizers, then fertilizing can be done later, if necessary. Water the seedlings before fertilizing. If the fertilizer solution gets on the leaves, be sure to rinse it off with water.
4. Prepare the greenhouse and insulated beds. Check the condition of the greenhouse, it is possible that repairs are required after the winter bad weather. To quickly warm up the soil in greenhouse beds, pour boiling water over them and cover with foil. In a heated greenhouse at the end of the month it will be possible to sow the first greens, radishes.
For cold-resistant crops, it is enough for the soil to warm up to 5-7 ° C. Check the soil temperature with a special soil thermometer, if necessary, spill the beds with hot water again immediately before sowing.
Insulated beds are usually covered with temporary shelters and are suitable for early sowing. Remove snow from such a bed in March. Sprinkle it with peat or ash and cover with several layers of plastic.
When the remnants of the snow have completely melted, spill the soil with hot water and again cover with foil and rags. When the soil is ready, you can sow early greens, covering the crops with non-woven material and film on the arcs.
5. Start preparing potatoes for planting... At the end of the month, select seed potatoes for germination, or vernalization. When calculating when to start vernalization, consider the usual planting times for potatoes in your area.
The procedure takes 4-6 weeks. Expose the tubers to light in a warm place at 18 ° C for about two weeks. Can be placed in two layers in low boxes with wet sawdust, peat or sand. Then transfer the potatoes to a room with a temperature of 13-15 ° C under diffused lighting.
6. Prepare onion sets for planting... About a month before planting the onion sets, at the end of March, transfer the planting material that was stored in cold conditions at a temperature of about 0 ° C to a warm room.
Dry the thawed bulbs at 30 ° C for 2-3 days to avoid mold. Then store the onions at 18-20 ° C until planting.
The tomato, in the process of growth and maturation, constantly needs potassium. This element is especially important during the formation of 3-4 sheets. At this time, it is necessary to add potassium nitrate. The next stage of fertilization is a week before planting the plants in a permanent place. Thanks to this, the seedlings take root better and grow quickly. The final stage of potash fertilization is the period of ovary formation. At this time, tomatoes are in dire need of feeding.
Positive aspects of using potassium nitrate:
It is very problematic to grow a good, high-quality tomato crop without the use of potassium nitrate.