← Read the previous part "Growing leek seedlings in an apartment"
As I already noted, the option growing leek seedlings at home difficult enough.
There are several reasons for this:
- the need for a significant, and well-lit area, which will have to be allocated for onion seedlings;
- very frequent death of seedlings from all kinds of rot at the slightest waterlogging;
- certain difficulties in maintaining the required temperature regime.
Therefore, it is preferable for most gardeners to grow leek seedlings in a greenhouse. True, then you will have to abandon very late varieties (since it will not work to start an unheated greenhouse in February). In addition, given the long growing season of leeks, the sowing itself still needs to be done at home - sow the seeds in sawdust (this will win one week).
And after a week, during which it will be necessary to prepare the greenhouses, it is necessary to transport the sown seeds to it. Naturally, this option is possible only if the greenhouse is fully prepared in the fall, and in the spring fresh manure with sawdust and lime is added to it for heating. Then all this "pie" is sprinkled, as usual, with earth prepared in the greenhouse since autumn. Technically, it will all look like this.
1. Around March 1, cover the entire area of the greenhouse with a double or even triple layer of film for earlier thawing of the soil. The greenhouse doors, of course, also need to be tightly closed.
2. After two weeks, form ridges in the greenhouse: cover a layer of autumn organic matter with fresh manure, sprinkle with lime and sawdust; sprinkle with a layer of earth, adding ash and complex fertilizer such as nitrophoska or Kemira. Then spill the ridges with boiling water from a watering can (you will have to heat the bath, since you will need a lot of water) - if you fail, then just with cold water.
3. Cover the entire greenhouse area again with foil.
4. At the same time, already at home, soak the onion seeds in sawdust and leave them in the apartment for germination. To prevent sawdust from drying out, containers with sawdust should be placed in plastic bags, but do not close them tightly, but leave a hole for ventilation. Then place the bowls with seeds in a warm place.
5. After a week, the soil in the greenhouse should warm up well enough, and the seeds should hatch. Then you should immediately start sowing (it is desirable that this took place at the beginning of the last decade of March). To do this, it is enough to scatter the seeds with sawdust (after mixing the seeds and sawdust with each other) over the required area and sprinkle with a thin layer of soil. At the end of sowing, it is imperative to mulch the soil with sawdust.
If necessary, the sowing must be watered. To increase the temperature of the soil and above it, it is very good to put plastic bottles with water in rows. It is advisable to make such rows along the entire outer side of the greenhouse, along the inner and, if possible, between plantings directly on the ridges. Cover the entire greenhouse area again with a double layer of foil. All this together will give a very good thermal effect.
6. A week later, when the first shoots begin to appear, the film should be replaced with a thick covering material, which, due to the barricade from the bottles, will not be pressed close to the soil, but at some distance from it, which is quite enough for the emerging seedlings. In addition, it is necessary to install arcs from the greenhouse over the entire area of the greenhouse and stretch the film over them. As a result, the conditions for the leek will be the most suitable.
As for fertilizing and spraying, then in a greenhouse, subject to the formation of fertile soil, this is not required. It will be enough just to water the plants about once a week. Although spraying with epin will certainly not hurt.
If, due to weather conditions, it is not possible to sow the plants on time, then you can sprinkle sawdust with hatched seeds in a bowl with a thin layer of soil and hold it on the window for about a week, waiting for more favorable conditions. True, in this case, it will take much more time to plant, because you will need to select each plant and plant it carefully. But there is also a plus - the plants will be at the right distance from each other, and not the way the seeds fell by themselves in the sawdust.
On the one hand, it is believed that it is easier to grow leeks than ordinary onions, because, according to official data, it is more resistant to onion diseases and pests. On the other hand, it is more difficult because he is very picky about growing conditions.
1. Leeks can form a normal crop only on neutral, fertile and loose soils. Waterlogged and acidic soils are completely unsuitable for growing leeks. It will not grow on heavy clay soils.
2. The root system of leeks is better developed and penetrates deeper than that of onions. Therefore, the fertile soil layer must be deep enough.
3. Leeks are photophilous and cannot stand shading at all.
4. This onion is extremely hygrophilous. The same mulching with any suitable material, for example, sawdust, will help to retain moisture in the soil (especially with our strong Ural winds). Plus, mulching will save you the hassle of constantly loosening the soil.
5. Leek is very picky about fertilizers and reacts positively to both organic and mineral fertilizers.
6. It is cold-resistant and able to withstand autumn frosts down to -7 ° C.
Garden bed preparation. Naturally, it is better to prepare a garden for leeks (as well as for most other vegetable crops) in the fall. The soil must be very fertile, otherwise there is nothing to try to grow it - you still cannot get a crop on poor soil. I bring in a substantial amount of humus from the greenhouse into the garden.
You can fill the ridge with semi-rotted manure or organic residues. Before planting, you need to add a complex fertilizer such as Kemir, water well and loosen the soil. The seedlings in the greenhouse will also need to be well shed to minimize the chance of severe damage.
Disembarkation. After 50-60 days, the seedlings usually have 3-4 feathers, and you can start planting them. In our conditions, this usually happens around the middle of May.
According to the recommendations of agronomists, before planting, the seedlings are carefully disassembled and shortened by 1/3 of both its leaves and roots. I never do this, and I believe that the less you damage the plants, the better. But in any case, you need to very carefully separate the plants (and their roots) from each other and plant them on a prepared bed. When planting, the plants should be slightly deepened (by 0.5-1 cm).
You should not save on the distance between the plants, given that over the summer, leeks will need to be spud at least three times. The recommended distance between rows is 25-30 cm, and the distance between plants in a row is about 10-15 cm (depending on the variety - the larger the onion should grow, the greater the distance).
After planting, the plants need to be watered (it is nice to add huminates for better survival) and the soil between them should be mulched, and then covered with a covering material. The covering material will save you from excessive sunlight and temperature extremes, and it will help to preserve humidity - then you will have to water the onion about once a week (without covering it, you need to do this every day). With loosening, the picture is the same - without mulching, you will have to loosen the beds about once a week, with mulching, you can limit yourself to loosening once a month.
Top dressing. As already mentioned, leek grows quickly only on well-filled soil with organic matter and with abundant (but not excessive) watering. If the soil is not fertile enough, then the growth rate slows down significantly, and this is completely unacceptable in the conditions of our short Ural summer.
Therefore, even on highly fertile soils, top dressing is necessary, and it is not even worth talking about poor soils - it is better not to try to grow leeks on them. On good soil, leeks will need to be fed 2-3 times throughout the season. As a top dressing, it is good to use diluted "Giant" (or Kemira) with the addition of slurry. In addition, in our Ural conditions, with a constant lack of potassium in the soil, additional fertilizing with potassium fertilizers is required (2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate per bucket).
Depending on the summer, the number of potash dressings can range from one (good sunny summer) to four (cloudy and rainy). In addition, around the middle of the growing season, it is necessary to sprinkle the soil around the plants with ash, which will significantly improve the taste of the leeks.
If the soil in the leek garden is not highly fertile, then try weekly feeding. You will also get the result, but, of course, not the same as in the variant described above. And in this case, you will need to start feeding in two weeks after planting the leek on the beds.
Hilling. The length and thickness of the tender leg of the leek depend both on the planting depth of the seedlings and on the height of the subsequent hilling, especially in the second half of the growing season.
Therefore hilling is one of the distinguishing features of leeks. Moreover, your harvest - the length of the leg - will ultimately depend on how seriously you take this operation. We must try to huddle the leek higher so that the leg is longer. It is because of the need for hilling plantings that this bow is planted at a considerable distance from each other.
In addition, hilling is not carried out at one time. This should be done gradually. They huddled a little the first time, then after 2-3 weeks the operation was repeated, etc. And you can start hilling from the middle of summer, when the weak shoots of the planted seedlings will already turn into powerful plants. In general, hilling is recommended to be carried out about three times per season, but you can do this up to five times.
Read the next part "Harvesting and storing the leek crop" →
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
Today I will talk about planting tomatoes in open ground and in greenhouses in buckets without a bottom. Please do not be confused with the potted method of growing tomatoes.
Let me remind you that I acquired the site a year ago, so I have no practical experience. But when I saw tomato seedlings planted in 10-12 liter plastic buckets without a bottom at an immigrant neighbor from Ukraine, I hurried to do the same. She said that this is how tomatoes are grown in her homeland. The bottom of plastic buckets is cut out. Then the buckets are buried a third or even deeper into the ground and filled with fertile soil.
The advantages of this method for open ground:
This method of planting tomatoes has proven itself very well when planting seedlings. in buckets without a bottom in greenhouses... I don't have a greenhouse, but before creating a blog, I read the reviews of amateur gardeners from other sites: “Quite unexpectedly for everyone, tomatoes in buckets began to ripen two weeks earlier than in greenhouse beds. And the fruits on them were about one and a half times larger. Tomato bushes in buckets bore abundantly. " “Increase your harvest, plant a tomato in a bucket”, “A bush in a greenhouse is inferior to a“ bucket ”from open ground." I hope I convinced you to try this method of growing tomatoes next season.
The cultivation system "a garden without hassle" has managed to fall in love with many summer residents. less The more we interfere with the plants, the better they grow. Cucumber, like any other plant, requires attention, but reacts negatively to interference. If, in particular, it is easy to cut off and too diligently to shape, you run the risk of leaving the stem without a crop.
Practice shows that even in the open field, cucumbers grow perfectly. And even if you do not tie them up, and let the cultivation take its course, the yields will be more impressive than. All agricultural techniques and sophisticated grooming methods were invented for industrial cultivation for private household plots, not cucumbers.
Hello dear friends!
Zucchini are members of the pumpkin family. In terms of cooking, it is a versatile product. Which can be fried, stewed, stuffed, cooked into delicious caviar. Zucchini is a dietary product that is perfectly absorbed by our body. They are recommended to be included in the diet for diseases of the kidneys, liver, heart, stomach. Zucchini contains large quantities of vitamins C, PP and other substances necessary and beneficial for the body.
Today we'll talk about growing zucchini in the open field on a personal plot.
First of all, you need to pick up the varieties. You can read about the best varieties of zucchini HERE.
Zucchini are very demanding on soil fertility. Depending on the composition of the soil in your area, you need to apply organic and mineral fertilizers.
Seed preparation for sowing:
Seeds for sowing zucchini are prepared in the same way as for growing pumpkin. You can read about this technology in the article "Growing pumpkin in the open field".
Sowing seeds and planting seedlings:
Zucchini can be sown in several places in the backyard, which are located in a warm, sunny place. It is usually convenient to use small areas to grow one or two plants. If properly cared for, these plants thrive and produce many female fruits.
To get the earliest crop of zucchini, it is better to use the seedling method. You can grow seedlings both on the windowsill in the apartment and in the greenhouse. It is necessary to sow seeds for seedlings on April 15 - 25 or May 1 - 10. Seedlings at the age of 25 - 30 days can be planted in open ground. After planting, the bed must be covered with a film until the time when the weather is warm.
Growing zucchini seedlings at home is not difficult. It will be enough to grow only 3 - 5 plants. To grow seedlings, you need to take cups of 10 x 10 centimeters, fill them with a nutrient mixture of humus and peat, or ready-made nutrient soil "EXO", pour warm water and sow the prepared seeds to a depth of 2 - 3 centimeters. The temperature for growing marrow seedlings is 18 - 22 degrees.
Water the seedlings with warm water (22 degrees) about 1 time per week.
Fertilizing for seedlings of zucchini:
For the entire period of growing seedlings, you need to carry out 2 dressings.
1 top dressing - carried out 8 - 10 days after germination. This dressing is prepared as follows: in 1 liter of water, you need to dilute 2 grams of the drug "Bud". Water the seedlings with a solution at the rate of 1 glass for 1 - 2 zucchini plants.
2 feeding - carried out 10 days after the first one. This top dressing is prepared as follows: in 1 liter of water it is necessary to dilute one teaspoon of the organic fertilizer "Effecton" and nitrophoska. The consumption of this solution is 1 glass per 1 zucchini plant.
We plant seedlings in a permanent place:
A bed for planting seedlings must be made 60 - 70 centimeters wide.
Do not grow squash where pumpkin crops used to be.
If you do not set yourself the goal of getting an early harvest, then growing zucchini in the open field can be done by sowing seeds directly on the garden bed. The sowing period is from May 1 to June 10. In this case, the garden bed must be prepared in the same way as for seedlings.
In each hole, you need to put 2 seeds at a distance of 5 centimeters from each other, to a depth of 2 - 3 centimeters. If both seeds germinate, then one plant must be removed and transplanted to another bed.
In the event of an expected cold snap, you need to take measures to insulate the beds with a covering material or film.
It is advisable to remove the film from the garden only after June 12 - 15.
Zucchini should be watered regularly, under the root, so that water does not get on the leaves. Before the flowering period, you need to water the zucchini once a week at the rate of 4 - 5 liters per 1 square meter.
During the fruiting period, you need to water more often and more with warm (22 - 23 degrees) water, up to 8 - 10 liters per square meter 1 - 2 times a week, depending on the weather.
If you water the zucchini with cold water, you will certainly face massive rotting of young ovaries.
Watering the squash too often can expose the root system. If this suddenly happened, then the roots need to be covered with a mixture of peat and humus with a layer of 3-5 centimeters.
Loosening and hilling should not be carried out in order to avoid damage to the high-located root system.
When the zucchini bloom, they can be pollinated by hand: you need to pick the male flower, cut off its petals and apply the pollen to the pistil (center) of the female flower, but you can use the services of bees for pollination if they are in your area. Attracting insects is easy. It is necessary to dissolve 1 teaspoon of honey in 1 glass of water and sprinkle flowering zucchini with honey solution in the morning.
When growing zucchini in the open field, one should not forget about feeding. During the growth and development of these wonderful plants, they need to be fed several times:
The first feeding should be done before flowering. In 10 liters of water, you need to dilute 1 half-liter can of mullein and also 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. Or dilute 2 tablespoons of water in 10 liters of water. fertilizers "Rossa". One liter of solution is watered on one plant.
The second feeding of zucchini should be carried out during their flowering. The best composition for the second feeding is a solution of 2 tablespoons of wood ash and 2 tablespoons of Effekton fertilizer in 10 liters of water. The solution consumption is the same - 1 liter per 1 plant.
The third feeding of zucchini must be done during the ripening of the fruit. To do this, dissolve 2 tablespoons of wood ash or 2 - 3 tablespoons of Effekton-O organic fertilizer in 10 liters of water. In this case, the consumption of the solution must be increased to 2 liters per 1 zucchini plant.
In the fruiting phase, you also need to carry out 2 foliar dressing of zucchini with the "Bud" preparation. To do this, dissolve 10 grams of this drug in 10 liters of water. Instead of "Bud", you can apply liquid fertilizer "Ross" (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Consumption of the solution is 2 liters per 10 square meters.
The interval between two foliar dressings is 10 - 12 days.
Observing this method of growing zucchini in the open field, you will get an excellent harvest of zucchini in 50 - 60 days after the first shoots appear! See you!
Hello everybody! Today I want to tell you about hybrid tomatoes from the NGO "Gardens of Russia" with the beautiful name of the Swan Princess.
This hybrid is designed for growing outdoors and under plastic shelters. Being a plant of the determinant type, that is, stopping in growth on its own, the Princess does not exceed 150-170 cm in height.
It has a tendency to form numerous stepchildren, which at the beginning of the growing season contributes to a less troublesome increase in the amount of planting material due to the "renegades".
For example, I often do this with hybrids grown from expensive seeds.
Growing the Swan Princess this season both in the greenhouse and on the street, I cannot fail to note that in the latter case both the plant itself and its fruits are more stable than in the first. Even the tomato smell and taste are most pronounced in street fruits.
In the photo - the weight of tomatoes from one brush in the amount of 5 pieces, however, one, the largest - is the result of improper pollination, as a result - two fruits merged together.
The fact that the skin had time to burst on the fruits was my oversight, I did not remove it in time.
I was waiting for the most complete ripening, because these tomatoes have a bright tomato taste, indescribable words, and are used by me to make homemade tomato ketchup, the recipe for which I will certainly share in the Recipes and Preparations section.
The Swan Princess has a lot of positive qualities - she is stable when grown by seedlings, easily takes root, grows quickly and gains strength, although in fact the plant is very elegant.
Tall and slender, with beautiful leaves, as in the picture, perfectly bearing fruit in clusters, which one would like to call bunches.
The yield of this hybrid corresponds to the one declared by the manufacturer - from 5 kg per bush. When writing this work, I used fruits taken from one bush, far from all, the total weight of which reached 4 kg. There are no less than a kilogram of green tomatoes left on the plant.
The average weight of bright red fruits is 150-220 grams.
The plant is resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, Alternaria and bacteriosis.
Even in section, the Swan Princess resembles a picture from a children's book - as if a fabulous firebird, spreading its tail and wings.
Here's a look at this wonderful variety "live"!
I specially shot this video to show you the Swan Princess in all her glory!
I would like to say a big thank you to Lyubov Anatolyevna Myazina, breeder of the Sady Rossii NPO, for her constant ability to surprise and delight us with her work results, which, as in this case, I would like to tell the whole world about!
The choice of a method for forming a cucumber primarily depends on which group it belongs to: traditional varieties that yield evenly from the entire plant, or modern, low-growing, forming a crop on the main stem.
In varietal cucumbers, predominantly male flowers appear on the main stem. Pinching the top of the plant over the fifth leaf stimulates the formation of lateral shoots. A larger number of female inflorescences are formed on them, from which the ovaries are formed.
Modern hybrids take a slightly different approach. A sufficient number of female flowers are formed on them. ToWhen 3-5 true leaves appear on the stem, all shoots and buds are removed from their sinuses, which can slow down the development of the plant. This technique is called blinding. In this case, all forces will be directed to the growth of the main stem. When the stem reaches the upper horizontal, it is thrown to the other side of the trellis. When the stem on the other side grows another 60-70 cm from the top of the trellis, pinch the top of the hanging plant.
Parthenocarpic hybrids, in which flowers are formed in whole bunches, require more careful maintenance than their less productive counterparts. For bunch cucumbers, simultaneous and abundant formation of buds on the main and lateral shoots is characteristic. Therefore, due to the simultaneously developing fruits, the bush can greatly weaken, and some of the fruits eventually become deformed or disappear from lack of nutrition.
To avoid trouble, a special technology is used to form bouquet cucumbers. At 3-4 nodes of the lower tier, the rudiments of lateral lashes and ovaries are pinched off. In the remaining nodes, the rudiments of lateral shoots are blinded, and the ovaries are not touched. After fruiting ends on the main shoot, the plant is well fed so that new side lashes begin to form. Soon, secondary shoots will begin to overgrow with fresh ovaries, which are usually no less than during the first wave of the harvest.
Attention! Feed the plant in the morning or evening to avoid chemical burns. It is best to fertilize after watering.
You can form a plant:
Trimming of the lashes begins 3-5 weeks after planting in the ground and the beginning of growth. By this time, the height of the plant should reach at least 0.5 m. Pruning is performed every 2 weeks. This helps the plant retain nutrients for greater fruiting.
Important! If you start pruning at a plant height of up to 0.5 m, it will not have time to develop, and you can be left without a crop at all.
With the seedling method, seedlings are planted in the ground in early April, but immediately cover the plants with film or spunbond (especially at night) until the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. With the seedless method, seeds are sown on the garden bed in May - early June, after the soil warms up to 15 ° C. In this case, you cannot do without shelter either.
Chinese cucumbers are growing rapidly in height, so be sure to install fairly high supports for the covering material and trellises for tying borage
Typically, the nutrient substrate for Chinese cucumbers is prepared in the same way as when grown in a greenhouse. But there is another simpler way: the manure is mixed with straw, watered with water at a temperature of about 25 ° C and covered with plastic wrap. The soil mixture is allowed to brew for several days, then it is evenly distributed over the entire bed and seeds are sown into it, keeping a distance of 20-25 cm between them.
Otherwise, caring for Chinese cucumbers is the same as when growing in a greenhouse.
In our unstable climate, Chinese cucumbers grow well, and they are less susceptible to disease and pests than ordinary greens. But long-fruited cucumbers also have a significant disadvantage: they are not stored for a long time, and not all varieties are suitable for canning.