Let's discuss the most important agricultural technical issue for an orchid: how to transplant it. When I transplanted an orchid for the first time, I was very afraid that I might accidentally break its roots, and it is through them that the orchid receives nutrients from water and air. But, fortunately, everything worked out.
The main things to remember when transplanting an orchid:
Before transplanting, the orchid needs to be watered well.so that the substrate is easier to separate from the roots. Slightly squeezing the pot, gently shake the flower out of it, holding it with the other hand. If the plant is not removed from the container, it is better to cut the pot.
Submerge the roots of the plant in water for 15-20 minutes to help the pieces of the substrate move away from the roots more easily.
How to transplant an orchid into a pot? Plastic pots are preferable for orchids, since in ceramic the roots grow to the walls and are damaged during transplantation. The plastic container allows you to maintain the desired level of moisture in the substrate and aerial roots.
If you are confused by the neighborhood of a rustic plastic flowerpot with an exotic beauty of a flower, place the flowerpot in a special glass container, similar to a small aquarium - this trick will hide the plastic and emphasize the sophistication of the orchid. I put the orchid in a round, deep, wide and transparent salad bowl, filling in the void around the flowerpot with shells and pebbles.
Orchids need a special substrate. You can buy it at specialized stores. There are two types of soil: substrate for epiphytic orchids (cattleya, odontoglossum, dendrobium, oncidium), which is called "Mix for Phalaenopsis" and soil for terrestrial orchids (cypripedium, papiopedilum) - "Mix for cymbidium".
The first type of mixture contains cut fern roots, pine bark, birch or oak charcoal, cork cut into slices, sphagnum moss.
The substrate for terrestrial orchids includes chopped bark, sphagnum, crushed coal, peat, leaf humus.
If you want to make your own substrate, use dry pine bark. It needs to be boiled well, then dried for a couple of days, then boiled again to guarantee the destruction of pests and viruses. Then the dried bark is cut into pieces 1.5-2 cm in size and mixed with dry crushed sphagnum. Do you still want to make your own substrate?
We put drainage in the form of charcoal or polystyrene in the pot, because the roots of the orchid grow to the shards or expanded clay.
We carefully wash the roots in a container with water, removing rotten, damaged and dry ones. We free the plant from the remnants of the old substrate.
We place the plant in a pot and carefully add the substrate, shaking the container slightly so that the mixture fills the voids. There is no need to ram the soil, it is better to tap on the sides of the pot, then the fractions will settle evenly in the container.
Spray generously the soil and plant roots. The next time we water in two days. You will have to spray often.
After a month, the orchid can be fed using a special orchid fertilizer.
If during transplanting you separated full-fledged shoots with young bulbs, try to root them. The separated shoots are planted in the same way as the main plant, but in a smaller container.
If you did everything correctly and your orchid has successfully undergone the transplant, then flowering can be expected this year.
Sections: Houseplants Beautiful Flowering Orchid Orchids
Gloxinia is a perennial indoor flowering plant that, with the onset of autumn and the arrival of short daylight hours, goes into a state of dormancy and remains in it until the end of February. As soon as the first spring sun warms up, the tubers begin to wake up and the flower comes to life. It is during this period that it is necessary to transplant the plant to a new place. The appearance of sprouts is a signal to start a transplant. In order for gloxinia to fully continue to develop in a new place, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory measures necessary for this process.
Orchid transplant is a necessary process, carried out at least once every two years. A more frequent transplant is also possible, if there are prerequisites for this:
Orchid substrate deserves special mention. It is a mixture of bark (usually pine), sphagnum moss, peat, charcoal and expanded clay. This composition is due to the specific conditions of the plant's existence in the wild: orchids grow directly on trees, receiving moisture from the air, and nutrients from the bark of the host plant.
Important to remember! The best time to transplant phalaenopsis is spring or autumn.
Over time, the substrate becomes denser, the bark collapses, and the supply of nutrients dries up. At this moment, an orchid transplant is required. In order for the process to be completed successfully, and the beautiful flower continues to delight its owner, it is better to follow the step-by-step instructions.
Preparation of tools. You will need sharp scissors, alcohol or a slightly pink solution of manganese, orchid substrate (you can buy it ready-made in the store), a wooden stick and a new pot.
Attention! The orchid pot must be transparent - this is a must.
The reason lies in the fact that the roots of this tropical plant photosynthesize to the same extent as the leaves. Due to the nature of their structure, they cannot absorb moisture and nutrients, being shaded. If the walls of the vessel do not allow sunlight to pass through, the roots will simply rot and the plant will die.
In addition, the new pot must be at least two centimeters larger than the previous one. This will give the roots the opportunity to grow and develop, the additional space contributes to the emergence of aerial roots.
Another reason is that the state of the soil is visible through the transparent walls of the florist, and the time of the necessary transplantation or the degree of moisture of the substrate can be determined. The latter is extremely important for establishing an irrigation regime, since orchids cannot equally tolerate waterlogging and drying out of the soil.
It is recommended to disinfect the orchid pot before filling it with substrate. Alcohol, manganese, or hot water are suitable for this. Tropical plants are highly susceptible to all kinds of diseases and pests, so the above measure is designed to help the plant adapt to new conditions.
Separating the plant from the walls of the previous pot. This should be done very carefully so as not to damage the fragile roots of phalaenopsis. If the pot is plastic, it can be slightly crumpled, then the flower will separate along with the lump of the substrate. If difficulties arise, it is better to carefully cut the container with sharp scissors.
Separation of old soil mixture. This procedure is best done under a stream of lukewarm water. Carefully sorting out the roots, you need to cut off the dead areas. It is not difficult to identify them: a healthy root is dense, green or gray in color. Places of cuts should be treated with an antiseptic. If you still have problems with this procedure, you should see a step-by-step photo of orchid transplantation.
Note! If the plant has yellowed lower leaves, they should also be removed when transplanting. This will help the orchid to direct all its forces into growth and rooting in a new substrate.
The next step is the phalaenopsis orchid is placed in a new substrate and a new pot. Care should be taken so that moisture or soil does not get to the growing point, this can lead to the death of the plant. It is not recommended to tamp the contents of the pot so as not to damage the roots of the plant; with a wooden stick, pieces of bark are only lightly pressed so that they fit snugly against the roots.
Transplanting is stressful for the plants. Some varieties take a long time to adapt to a simple change in placement, and a change in pot and soil leads to a prolonged period of wilting. Therefore, flower growers are not advised to often disturb the culture. According to the established rules of care, the frequency of transplantation is dictated by several factors:
Important! Orchid roots take a long time to recover. A flower cannot be disturbed unnecessarily. For about three years, the potting medium is considered suitable for the normal development of the plant. There is no need to replace it.
Important! We must wait until the end of the orchid bloom. See new roots, leaves. You cannot transplant a blooming orchid with flowers.
Beginner rules on how to care for begonia at home in a pot, include the following requirements:
In the process of caring for a begonia in a pot, there can be mistakes, since gardeners first decide to have a beautiful plant, then they begin to study the needs. During this time, the flower has time to get sick, sometimes it stops blooming.
The degree of watering is adjusted so that the earthen lump is always moist, but the roots at the bottom of the pot are not constantly in the water - it is drained from the pan. In summer humidity 70% can be maintained by spraying indoor air or household spray. In winter, plants are usually found on windowsills, under which batteries are located. How to water begonia at home to enhance evaporation:
It is necessary to maintain humidity in expanded clay - it will give off water in the form of fumes. The earth lump is moistened as needed, expanded clay - daily.
Important! Do not spray deciduous begonia over the leaf. This can cause brown spots.
Fertilization is applied every 2 weeks when buds begin to form, as well as during flowering. Flowering crops are fed with phosphorus-potassium substances. Do not use nitrogenous formulations, as the plant may not bloom. Fertilize decorative leafy flowers with nitrogen fertilization.
Begonias need space and plenty of light. It is best to place the plant pot on the sills of the east or west windows. In summer, it is necessary to shade the flower from direct sunlight, using newspapers, cardboard boxes, curtains, blinds. In winter, plants need to be exposed to the sun, as well as organize additional lighting with phytolamps or daylight devices.
Note! Begonias need fresh air. It is necessary to ventilate the room where the flowers are located every day. However, plants should be protected from drafts.
In summer, a comfortable temperature for plants is +20 - 22 degrees. In winter, the temperature regime should be +15 - 18 degrees. A drop in temperature below +14 degrees can lead to the death of a plant, or vice versa, an increase in it more than +26 degrees.
Transplanting begonias is an important condition for growth and flowering. It is carried out as the root system develops. If the pot is small, the roots will protrude from the bottom. Tuberous deciduous can stop the growth of new leaf plates. This is due to the depletion of the soil in the pot, as organic matter runs out and soil microorganisms die.
How to transplant begonia at home step by step:
Begonia after buying and transplanting at home needs to be adapted. To do this, it is temporarily removed in partial shade to get used to the new soil. It takes 3-4 weeks, then the plant returns to its place.
An important part of caring for coral begonia is periodical pruning of the plant. Pruning is needed to rejuvenate the plant, to form a beautiful crown and to cut cuttings.
It is best to prune in the spring and summer with a sharp, disinfected tool. After pruning, additional branches are formed on the shoot, which add splendor to the plant.
After pruning, we do not make any additional manipulations with the plant in the form of fertilizing or spraying with a shower. For a few days, we forget about the plant so that the damaged sections dry out and tighten.
If the plant does not arrange periodic pruning, then the stem will gradually become bare, and the plant itself will stretch upward.It turns out that you will have long stems and several leaves at the ends of the branches.
The stages of transplant are as follows:
Fitosporin is an excellent biological product for the prevention of fungal and bacterial diseases
Remove the orchid carefully from the pot
Be careful when freeing the roots from the substrate, as they are very fragile.
Any rotten, dry, shriveled or blackened roots must be cut off
At the bottom of the pot, you must put a layer of expanded clay
Cover the phalaenopsis with the substrate, keeping the flower in the middle
Leave some of the roots not covered with substrate
Lay moss on top of the substrate
If you did everything correctly, then there will be no problems after the transplant. If the phalaenopsis is a little wilted, then evaluate the conditions in which it is located. It may be too hot in the room, very dry air. Check to see if water has accumulated in the leaf axils.