Photo of white and red plumeria


Photos of indoor plants Published: June 12, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Briefly about leaving

The lighting is bright, it is possible in direct sunlight, the plant is not shade-loving. Plumeria needs a high temperature: in summer - 25-28 degrees, and in winter not lower than 16. Watering during growth is abundant, and in winter watering is reduced, watering a few days after the soil dries up from above. Spraying is beneficial for the plant, but not necessary.

Fertilizers are applied in spring and summer 2 times a month. Plumeria are pruned before spring awakening, and the cut branches are used for reproduction. In winter, plumeria rests and can shed its leaves. Plumeria are transplanted if necessary, but usually adult species no more often than every 2 years, and young ones annually. Plumeria is propagated by cuttings and seeds.

Read more about plumeria care

Photos of popular species

Plumeria is white and red.

In the photo: Plumeria alba / white plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria alba / white plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria alba / white plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria alba / white plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria alba / white plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria rubra / red plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria rubra / red plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria rubra / red plumeria

In the photo: Plumeria rubra / red plumeria

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Kutrovye
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

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Lily pink haven photo and description

Pink Heaven is a lily up to 140 cm high. The flowering period falls in June-July, forming delightful flowers of pale pink color, turning into shades of dark pink towards the center, the edges of the petals are emphasized by a light border.

Longiflorum (Longiflorum) hybrids - there are not many varieties in this group. Their winter hardiness is low. Before the onset of winter cold weather, warming mulching is necessary. In regions with severe winters, cultivation in containers or in greenhouses and greenhouses for cutting is recommended, with winter storage of bulbs at a temperature of + 5 ° C. Many growers successfully grow this beautiful lily as a houseplant, and in the summer they put the pots in the garden. The longiflorum leaves are graceful and large, and the fragrant flowers are tubular. Unlike other species, this lily can bloom twice: in summer and late autumn - in October-November. It grows well on the east, south and south-west windows. By purchasing just one bulb, you can grow up to 10 - 12 plants in a few years.

Soil and location: Lilies grow poorly on calcareous soils, preferring neutral or slightly acidic and well fertilized. Lilies, like all bulbous plants, do not tolerate the introduction of fresh organic matter. In places where lilies grow, water should not stagnate. Lilies are light-loving crops but can tolerate light shading.

Landing. Lilies can be grown in one place without replanting for 4-5 years. At 5-6 years, the height of the peduncle is noticeably reduced, the number of buds and therefore the bulb is depleted, and this can lead to diseases and death of the plant. Newly acquired bulbs should be transplanted to their permanent location as soon as possible. If this is not possible, store them in a cool place at a temperature not lower than zero, wrapping them in moss, or in washed coarse sand, or in weathered peat. Before planting in a permanent place, damaged scales and old dried roots should be removed. In open ground, lilies are planted in early - mid-September or in the spring at the end of April - May. The planting depth of the bulb depends on its size, and on the mechanical composition of the soil and is equal to 15-20 cm from the bottom to the soil surface. The bulbs are planted in pre-prepared fertile soil. Sand is added under the bottom and around the bulb. Planting lilies must be mulched.

Lily care. Lilies need watering during the flowering period. After the lilies have faded, watering can be stopped.
When driving lilies, it is necessary to leave a fairly large part of the leafy stem. This will help further the development of the bulb. In autumn, it is better to cut the stems of lilies at a height of 8-18 centimeters from the ground. Feeding lilies is especially important during the period of bud formation and in the stage of their coloring. No fertilization should be done during the flowering period, the abundance of nutrition leads to a rapid completion of flowering. The last top dressing with a predominance of potash fertilizers is needed to restore the bulb weakened by flowering and is carried out no later than August 15.

Reproduction of lilies. There are several ways to propagate garden lilies, including: seeds, bulbous scales, bulbs, babies, cuttings. Bulb propagation is the most common method. The root system of an adult, 4-5 year old plant forms a nest of bulbs that can be transplanted. This species reproduces well by seeds, which are tied and ripen in indoor conditions. If you sow seeds in January, then in the fall the plant can bloom, you just need to carefully look after it and feed it in a timely manner.

The use of lilies in garden design. Longiflorum lily varieties give an excellent cut. When planting lilies in flower beds, you should figure out in advance which plants you will plant between them. On the outer edge of the flower bed, you can distribute bulbous: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, hyacinths. Between the lily bushes, you can plant asters, delphiniums, chamomile or gladioli. A good background for flowering lilies is created by such low plants as: perennial Iberis, alyssum, low-growing marigolds, garden carnations, heucheras. Lilies can be planted next to junipers, cypresses, thuja, ferns. If you want to break up a flower garden so that lilies predominate in it, you should choose the varieties so that the flowering lasts as long as possible, and the plants themselves do not shade each other.


Common currant diseases and their treatment, photos of signs of infection

If only a few bushes of this berry grow on your site, you should thoroughly prepare from the beginning of spring. A selection of photos will help determine the disease by the symptoms and appearance of the plant, and timely apply protection and prevention measures.

Currant anthracnose (lat.Pseudopeziza ribis)

The causative agent of this disease is the fungus Colletotrichum orbiculare. The first signs of infection can often be seen in the middle of the summer season. The main symptoms are:

  • small red and brown spots (up to 1 mm) with dark tubercles in the center appear on the leaves
  • spots gradually increase, affecting the entire leaf
  • the leaves dry up and fall off.
Anthracnose on currant leaves

This disease is typical for all types of currants, but it is especially common on red. During the rainy season, the mushroom is more active and dangerous for the plant. Its spores can easily survive the winter on plant debris.

Having found currant anthracnose on the site, treatment should begin immediately. To do this, use Bordeaux liquid (for 10 liters of water 0.1 kg of the drug). Spraying is carried out immediately after detection, and again - after harvesting the berries. You can prevent the disease with the help of simple preventive measures:

  • all fallen leaves and plant residues must be removed from the soil and burned
  • it is not recommended to plant young healthy bushes in the place where the infected plant was.

Powdery mildew (Latin Sphaerotheca mors-uvae)

Powdery mildew is caused by the marsupial mushroom Erysiphales. In the middle of the summer season, the following symptoms of the disease can be found on berry bushes:

  • young leaves are covered with a white loose bloom
  • it gradually spreads to berries.
Powdery mildew on currants is manifested by a white bloom

Powdery mildew belongs to a rare disease of currants and the fight against it does not cause problems with timely processing. If symptoms are found, it is recommended to spray the bushes with Fitosporin according to the instructions.

In the fight against the disease, you can use pharmacy iodine: 1 bottle of 5% drug per 10 liters of liquid. The procedure should be repeated after 3-4 days. In the event that the treatment has not brought results, 1% copper sulfate should be used: a teaspoon for 6-7 liters of liquid.

The presence of such a disease indicates an unhealthy condition of the bushes. The main prevention is the correct agricultural technique. Regular feeding and grooming will help avoid infection.

Currant rust (lat.Puccinia ribesii-caricis)

You can find rust on the bushes at any time of the season. There are 2 types of it:

  • goblet - expressed in the presence of convex orange humps on the leaves, resembling warts
  • columnar - small orange dots form on the leaves.
Columnar rust on currants appears as an orange bloom

The source of goblet rust is sedge growing near the site, and the vector of columnar rust can be a coniferous forest nearby. Spraying with Fitosporin according to the instructions will help to overcome the disease. If the treatment is ineffective, more powerful fungicides should be used, for example, Bordeaux mixture (a teaspoon per 7 liters of liquid). Treatment should be carried out 4 times with an interval of 10 days.


Garden Review

Red and white currants, pink and cream ... In fact, these are all red currants (R. rubra) from the point of view of biology. Well, her varietal variety is such that the berries can be transparent like Bayana or the White Fairy, creamy, like the Versailles white, slightly yellowish, like the Dutch white, pink striped, like the Transdanubian, transparent pink, like the Dutch pink or Pink pearls, bright red like Yonkheer Van Tets or Beloved, cherry, like Natalie, and even almost black like Red Viksna.

Perhaps only gooseberries can compete with red currants in the variety of berry colors.

In shape, the berries are round, elongated and slightly flattened. It's hard to believe, but there are varieties whose berry size reaches 1.5 cm in diameter.

But it is not so easy to achieve high yields and high-quality berries, because we consider this culture to be unpretentious in care and do not bother ourselves too much to create good conditions for red currants.

What is needed for the normal growth and development of this type of currant

Well-lit garden spot - no shade!

The place is only elevated, no lowlands or a close level of groundwater standing!

Well-prepared soil - deeply cultivated, structured, fully filled with fertilizers (organic + superphosphate and potassium sulfate), neutral pH.

Space - a bush from a bush at a distance of 1-1.5 m.

The best planting time is the end of August - the first decade of September.

Planting 2-3 different varieties is desirable for better pollination quality.

A planting pit with a diameter of 50-80 cm, a depth of 40-50 cm, half a bucket of compost, 100 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate or 200 g of wood ash are placed in it, for acidic soils - 100 g of dolomite flour.

Red currant grows very well in alkaline soils!

Of the planting features: the roots need to be slightly trimmed, treated with a root formation solution, dipped in a clay mash, planted directly, deepen the root collar by no more than 3-4 cm.After planting, the bushes are watered (1-2 buckets per bush), mulched and cut to a height of 20 cm from the soil level.

In spring and autumn, the soil under the bushes is loosened without breaking the ground, after 2-3 days they mulch (half-decomposed manure, sawdust, straw, etc.).

NEVER use fertilizers containing chlorine and chlorinated water for irrigation.

The currant responds well to the introduction of organic matter into the trunks and spraying with a solution of trace elements in the flowering or green ovary phase, which reduces the level of ovary shattering.

Abundant, but not too frequent watering during shoot growth, flowering, fruiting and in autumn, after picking berries.

Diseases and pests in red currant are basically the same as in black. But most of all, gardeners are concerned about the appearance of the characteristic red bumps on the leaves. In fact, this is nothing more than galls in the place of accumulation of currant aphids. Unfold the sheet and you will see these gluttonous creatures. You can fight them with phytoverm or a folk remedy - 3 tablespoons of soda ash or baking soda per 10 liters of water. But success will only be if you spray the leaves from the underside.

TOP varieties of red currants

Natalie... One of the best varieties of red currant bred in Russia. The bush is powerful, medium spreading, dense. Berries weighing 0.4-0.5 g, red, good taste. It is appreciated for its high winter hardiness, the yield is very high. It ripens in mid-July, but can stay on the bush for another month. High resistance to anthracnose and powdery mildew.

Rondom. Dutch variety of late ripening. Resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew. The bush is 1.5 m high, the branches are powerful. The berries are scarlet, sour in taste, large - 0.7-1.5 g. They stay on the bushes for a long time.

Jonker van Tets (Jonkheer Van Tets)... One of the oldest early maturing Dutch varieties. The bush is tall with many branches. Berries of medium size, up to 0.7 grams, with a delicate, sweet and sour taste. It is not afraid of winter cold and has good immunity to powdery mildew and anthracnose.

Cherry Viksne. Latvian variety with very attractive dark red berries weighing 0.7-1.0 g. The bush is small, but the yield is high. Resistant to frost, drought and anthracnose.

Marmalade. Late ripening variety. Berries of medium and large size, red-orange in color with white veins and a high content of vitamin C. Very winter-hardy variety, with high resistance to diseases and pests.

Ilyinka. A new high-yielding variety with a large berry (up to 1.6 g) of dark red, almost burgundy color, good taste.

Alpha. A new variety with large berries (up to 1.5 g) of light red color and harmonious sweet taste. Gives a stable and high yield, frost-resistant, resistant to powdery mildew.

Ural beauty. Medium ripening variety with large (1.7 g) red berries and sweet dessert taste with a pleasant aroma. Frost-resistant, resistant to diseases and pests.

TOP white currant

Bayan. High-yielding. Disease resistant late ripening variety. The berries are white, round, transparent, very juicy with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Belyana. Medium ripening variety, very productive. The berries are light yellow, transparent, the taste is very sweet, light, the skin is thin. He is good for everyone, but he absolutely does not tolerate transportation and storage.

Primus. Medium ripening variety, high yielding, disease resistant. The berries are large, round, yellowish-white. The taste is refreshing and pleasant.

Smolyaninovskaya (White Smolyaninova)... A productive variety of medium early ripening, winter-hardy. The berries are white, transparent and shiny, weighing up to 1 g, sweet with a slight sourness. The bush is medium-sized, spreading.

TOP pink currant

Pink pearls. The variety is unique - the berry is completely sweet. Resistant to heat, frost and disease. The berries are large (0.8-1.1 g), beautiful, pale pink in color, excellent taste. The berries last until the first frost. The bush is large, spreading, requires a lot of space, but the yield is also high - 7 kg per bush.

Lyubava. A medium-ripening variety, high-yielding, frost and disease resistant. The berries are large (0.6-0.9 g), round, pale pink, sweet and sour pleasant taste.

Jumping. A medium-ripening variety, high-yielding, frost and disease resistant (except for spotting). The berries are large (0.7-08 g), light pink in color, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Rose chair (Rose chair?). Variety of medium ripening, medium disease resistance.The berries are medium-sized, pink, sweet.

Rossoshanskaya pink. Late ripening variety, high-yielding. The berries are large (up to 1.1 g), bright pink.

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Description

General information: red and white currants differ from black currants in terms of growth and fruiting. The flower buds of these species are located on bouquet branches and ringlets, which are more durable than the fruit formations of black currant.

The berries of red and white currants are evenly distributed throughout the bush and are almost not carried to the periphery, the bushes are not so thickened and more durable: in one place the bush can grow for 15-20 years. White currant differs from red only in the color of the berries.

Growing conditions

Requirements: currants can grow on all types of soils, provided they are well seasoned with fertilizers. The plant tolerates increased soil acidity worse than other berry crops and develops better on soils with a slightly alkaline reaction (pH 7.0-8.0). The area should be free of weeds, especially wheatgrass. If there is one, it is removed along with the rhizome.

Varieties

Dutch white - berries are white, tanned, sour. The variety was bred in Western Europe. Dutch red - berries are large, light red, sour, they stay on the bush for a long time, they are used to make juice, jelly, which are well preserved without losing their taste.

Firstborn - berries of medium early ripening, large, bright red, tasty. Generous - early. Berries of medium size, the pulp is juicy, red in color, sweet and sour taste. Big White - medium early berries, medium to large, yellowish-creamy, long clusters, balanced sweet-sour taste, pleasant. Jüterborg - mid-ripening berries are large, delicate light cream tone, the skin is transparent, the brushes are long, the taste is pleasant sweet and sour with a predominance of sweetness.

Non-reward - mid-ripening berries are medium, bright red, transparent, clusters of medium length, dense, pleasant sweet-sour taste with a predominance of acid.

Natopi - mid-season berries are medium, dark red, glossy, sweet and sour taste, dessert.

Chuzhovskaya - early ripe red berries, medium-sized skin, transparent pulp, juicy, tender. Suitable for fresh consumption and for processing.

Ingredients: berries contain organic acids, sugars, vitamin C, carotene, biotin and folic acid. Dried berries contain a significant amount of iodine, much more than black currant.

Landing: pits 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide are 2/3 filled with soil, thoroughly mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers. Currants can form additional roots, so they should be planted 5-7 cm deeper than they grew before planting.

Plants are planted straight or obliquely for better additional root formation. After planting, the seedlings are abundantly watered and mulched with manure, humus or peat with a layer of 5-7 cm, strongly pruned, leaving branches 10-15 cm long with 3-4 buds. Place currants in a row at a distance of 1.3-1.5 m.

Care: The methods of care are similar to caring for black currants, but there are a number of differences. Red and white currants have a more powerful and deep root system compared to black currants. Unlike black currant, in which ringlets are not durable and live for 2 - 3 years, in red and white they bear fruit up to 7-8 years.

In this regard, in the first 3-4 years after planting, the need for red and white currant plants for nutrients is high, which increases even more with the entry of the plant into the fruiting phase. Due to the biology of red and white currants, there are a number of differences in the degree of nutrient intake compared to black:

* higher removal of nitrogen and potassium * lower need for phosphorus and organic fertilizers

* higher sensitivity to chlorine.

Phosphate fertilizers for white and red currants can be applied once every 3 years at a dose of 6-9 g of the active substance phosphorus per 1 m2 (12-18 g of double superphosphate), and potassium fertilizers - annually at a dose of 7-10 g of the active substance (14- 20 g of potassium sulfate or 40-60 g of wood ash). It is better to apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers for the last autumn tillage.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring at a dose of 6-8 g per 1 m2 (18-25 g of ammonium nitrate or 13-17 g of urea). Following the application of fertilizers, loosening is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm.

Foliar dressing in the flowering and ovary phases, in the evening or in the morning, after the dew has dried, is very effective.

It should be remembered about the need for watering due to the high demand of plants for moisture.

In addition to other common pests with black currant, red and white currants are affected by leafy gall aphids (larvae settle on the underside of leaves, forming dark red and yellow swellings) and gooseberry sawfly (small green caterpillars with black spots eat leaves, leaving only thick veins) ...

Solutions used against large currant aphids are effective against aphids; it is also useful to plant tomatoes nearby. In the fight against the sawfly, spraying with infusions of wormwood, tobacco and garlic is effective. In the fall it is necessary to dig up the soil, and in the summer to collect the false caterpillars by hand.

Post-plant pruning of currant bush

Cropping: all the basic rules for pruning red and white currants are similar to the rules for pruning black currants, but there are a number of features associated with the biology of the structure of the bush and the specifics of growth and fruiting.

The strongest flower buds, which means that the most abundant and large clusters of berries are located on the former tops of the shoots, where two-year-old wood borders on an annual one. Therefore, when pruning red and white currants, you should not shorten the branches, this will cause significant damage to the next year's harvest.

The age of the branches capable of fruiting reaches 8-10 years, so there is no need to constantly maintain the age diversity of the branches in the bush by cutting out the branches. However, there should not be too many young zero branches intended to replace old ones, so that the bush does not thicken.

Therefore, it is necessary to leave as many young branches as necessary to replace the aging ones in the future, while excess branches should be cut out at the base.

The post-planting image of a bush of red and white currants is carried out 2-3 years after planting and 4-5 strong, well-located shoots are left, the rest are cut out at the base. The left branches, which serve as the basis for the formation of the bush, shorten

Red and white currants also require rejuvenating pruning when the shoot growth becomes short. One of the methods of rejuvenation in this case is pruning to transfer to a strong lateral branch capable of active growth, or to a top shoot.

In the 2-3rd year after planting, the bush is cut off, leaving 4-5 of the strongest branches. In the future, 4-5 of the strongest shoots are selected annually, and the rest are removed. At the same time, excess overgrowing branches of the first and second order, rubbing, weakened, located close to the ground, are thinned out.

Weak basal shoots should not be left in red currant bushes. They thicken the bush and are unproductive. Rejuvenation of red currant bushes begins at the 6-7th year after planting, replacing old, less productive branches with new, young shoots of zero order.

Harvesting: The timing of harvesting is determined in the same way as for black currant, taking into account the characteristics of a particular variety. In any case, you should not leave the berries on the bush for a long time, this leads to their drying out, "withering" and shedding.

For red and white currants, the berries of which ripen at the same time, picking with whole brushes is a common technique. Due to the very strong attachment of the berries to the stalk, when they are torn off, the skin is damaged, juice flows out, and the product loses its commercial quality, therefore, picking individual berries is undesirable.

Using: berries are consumed fresh and processed, an excellent jelly is obtained from red currants, nutritious compotes and juices can be ground with sugar, and in winter diluted with water and thus replenish the body with vitamins. Fresh berries and their processed products improve appetite, increase the digestibility of animal proteins, and enhance intestinal motility.

The juice has a refreshing and restorative property, in hot weather it quenches thirst, it is recommended for patients in a febrile state. In folk medicine, it is used as a diaphoretic and is considered useful for urolithiasis (promotes the excretion of uric acid salts).

Conclusion: Red and white currants - we hope the article will help you to understand the issue well over time: Red and white currants


Planting red currants

Red and white currants love sandy loam and loamy soils, but they may well grow on others. More photophilous than black, but not so demanding on humidity. It can be propagated by dividing the bush and layering, green and lignified cuttings (cuttings for red and white currants are less effective).

Planting red currants is best done in early autumn, in September. The hole is dug in advance so that the soil settles. The diameter of the planting pit is 50 cm, the depth is 40 cm. Leave gaps of up to 1.5 m between the plants when planting.

After planting, the ground must be well tamped so that there are no voids, and poured with a bucket of water. Saplings must be cut off strongly, leaving 10-15 cm from the ground with 2-3 buds, and it is good to mulch the soil around.


Top dressing

Plants with developed immunity are easier to treat. Currants are supported by complex feeds.

  • For a 10-liter bucket of water, take 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate, half a teaspoon of boric acid and 3 g of ferrous sulfate. Top dressing restores a depleted currant bush, helps to grow greenery and prevents leaf chlorosis
  • In the phase of ovary formation, top dressing is prepared with wood ash to improve the quality of the crop and increase the endurance of the currant. In a bucket of water, dissolve 200 g of ash, 1 bag of sodium humate, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate
  • The use of "Immunocytofit" has a good effect: dilute 1 tablet of the drug in a bucket of water, add a solution of 1 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium sulfate.

When buying currants, you can choose varieties with high resistance to anthracnose:

  • Black currant: Stakhanovka, Katun, Altai, Exhibition, Siberian daughter, Zoya, Belarusian sweet, Dove, Smart
  • Red currant: Faya fertile, Pervenets, Victoria, Chulkovskaya, Krasnaya Gollandskaya, London Market.

Disease caused by fungi can be defeated. Increased attention to the garden will bring a quality harvest.


Watch the video: DESCUBRE a la Plumeria FILIFOLIA #plumerimax #plumeriafilifolia #frangipani


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