Kerry plant, or keria (lat.Kerria) Is a deciduous shrub of the Rosaceae family that comes from the forest and mountainous regions of Japan and southwestern China. The kerria shrub is named after the first gardener of the Royal Botanic Gardens of Ceylon and renowned plant collector William Kerr.
The genus is represented by only one species - Japanese kerria, which is called the "Easter rose" due to the shape of the flowers and the time of flowering.
Read more about growing kerrias below.
Kerria japonica is a deciduous, fast-growing shrub up to 3 m high with straight green twig-like shoots that form a crown in the form of a cone. Kerria leaves resemble raspberry leaves: up to 10 cm long, lanceolate, double toothed, pointed to the tops, glabrous above and pubescent on the lower side. They are light green in summer and bright yellow in autumn. Single, fragrant, simple or double kerria flowers up to 4.5 cm in diameter bloom for 25 days from May to August, the plant often blooms again in autumn. The fruit of kerria is a juicy black-brown drupe, but in the conditions of the middle lane the plant does not form fruit.
Thin shoots of kerrias can break from strong winds, so it is advisable to plant them surrounded by such flowering shrubs as spiraea, bubblegum or Chinese tea. In the midst of spring, it can serve as a spectacular backdrop for blue aquilegia, blue phlox spread out, dwarf purple irises, and nearby you can grow a buzulnik, which will be in harmony with kerria during its autumn flowering.
Planting keria in open ground is carried out in early spring before the start of sap flow, or in the fall 1-1.5 months before the start of frost. Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted at any time of the year, except for winter.
The best site for a plant is a place protected from cold winds and well-lit by the sun. Kerria can grow in partial shade, but then its flowering will not be so abundant. However, in the direct rays of the sun, keria flowers quickly fade, so the best place for a shrub is the lace penumbra, which is given by large trees.
Like any forest plant, Japanese kerria loves moist fertile soil, rich in humus, and most of all - loamy. A pit for kerry is dug 60x60 in size and about 40 cm deep. A mixture of fertile garden soil, humus and sod land is poured into the bottom of the pit in a ratio of 2: 3: 3 with the addition of 60-80 g of complete mineral fertilizer.
A kerry bush is placed on the mound, its roots are straightened, and then the remaining space of the pit is filled with the same soil mixture, then the surface is lightly tamped and the seedling is watered abundantly. The root collar of the plant should be flush with the surface of the site.
Caring for keria serves primarily to maintain a high level of decorativeness, and, as you know, only a healthy and well-groomed plant can be beautiful. Kerria in the open field needs regular watering, loosening the soil around the bush, weeding, feeding and pruning.
Watering kerria as needed, when the topsoil dries out. The plant especially needs moisture during the flowering period and in drought. Water for irrigation should be warm and settled. If the summer is rainy, watering may not be necessary, since kerria does not like waterlogging. After watering or rain, loosen the soil around the bush and remove the weeds.
Growing kerrias involves fertilization into the soil. After flowering, the plant is fed with mullein infusion (1:10) or matured compost with the addition of wood ash (dose - 100-200 g of ash per m²).
If necessary, the kerria bush tolerates transplanting well, and if the procedure is carried out with all accuracy, then this can be done at any time of the year, except for winter and late autumn. But it is still better to replant kerria in spring or October, when there are no leaves on the plant. Kerria is carefully dug around the perimeter of the crown projection, removed from the ground, transferred to a previously prepared hole and lowered into it along with an earthen lump. Then proceed as for the initial landing.
Within two weeks after transplantation, the kerria flower needs regular and abundant watering: the root zone must be saturated with moisture.
Reproduction of Japanese kerrias is carried out by vegetative methods: dividing the bush, layering, shoots and cuttings.
Lignified cuttings cut in April, green cuttings - in the middle of summer. The cuttings should have two buds, the lower cut is made oblique. Cuttings are planted in a cold greenhouse, which is placed in a light partial shade. The roots of kerria cuttings form well, but this process is not fast: the cuttings remain overwintered in the greenhouse, and only in May of next year they are planted in separate containers and grown at home. Kerria cuttings are planted in open ground in a permanent place after another year.
For breeding kerrias root suckers it is necessary to separate the shoots from the mother bush in early autumn and plant them. The filamentous root system in offspring is well developed, therefore, with regular watering and good care, a young plant in a new place adapts quite quickly.
It is also not difficult propagate kerria by layering: in the spring, before the sap flow begins, place the kerria shoots in pre-dug grooves about 7 cm deep and fix them in this position. After one and a half or two weeks, new shoots will begin to grow from the buds of the layers, and when they reach a height of 10-15 cm, you need to sprinkle the grooves and shoots up to half the height with fertile soil. By the fall, the new plants will have roots and the layers can be removed and transplanted to a permanent location.
Dividing the bush often combined with a kerria transplant: after you dig out the bush, carefully release its roots from the ground and divide it into parts so that each of the divisions has developed roots and strong, strong shoots. Delenki are seated in pre-prepared pits in the same order as in the initial planting of kerria seedlings, and watered abundantly.
In early spring, before the buds swell, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of kerrias, that is, to cut out broken and dried shoots that have frozen over the winter to healthy wood, and shorten young and healthy ones by a quarter. As a result of pruning, the bush becomes dense and compact, and the flowering of kerria becomes abundant.
After flowering, you need to cut out four to five-year-old shoots of kerria to the base, and slightly shorten the young ones to maintain the lush shape of the bush.
Kerria japonica is very resistant to diseases and pests. There are no known cases of insect, fungal, viral or bacterial infections of kerria.
In areas with a warm climate, kerrias can not be sheltered for the winter, but since winters in the middle zone are severe and sometimes snowless, it is advisable to still prepare a shelter for the plant.
Planting and caring for Japanese kerrias in the middle lane is carried out in the same manner and using the same techniques as in areas with a warmer climate, however, Japanese kerrias in the Moscow region or in the Leningrad region need mandatory shelter for the winter.
Kerria is covered in the second half of autumn, on a dry day: the shoots of the plant are bent to the ground, laid on a spread foam, fixed in this position, and covered with spruce branches on top or covered with dry foliage. A fixing frame is built over the plant, which will not allow the branches to straighten. The shelter for kerrias should be ventilated so that branches and shoots underneath do not spoil.
With the arrival of spring, on a dry but cloudy day, the plant is gradually freed from shelter. First, the frame is removed, and then the leaves. In sunny weather, it is advisable to cover kerrias from direct rays with a covering material, since the shoots can get burns, from which the plant will die. You can, of course, cut off the burnt shoots, but even after the growth of new ones, the kerry will not give abundant flowering, or it may not bloom at all.
As we mentioned at the beginning of the article, there is only one species in the genus - the Japanese kerria, but it has many garden forms.
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Flowering Shrubs Pink (Rosaceae) Plants on K
Many flower growers like perennial garden geraniums: planting and caring for this plant in the open field does not cause difficulties. Its delicate greenery and delicate colors of flowers adorn the garden from early summer to late autumn.
Rounded bushes with carved leaves complement the beauty of a flower garden, flower bed or country lawn, without requiring frequent watering and annual replanting. Even busy gardeners will be able to grow outdoor pelargonium on the site by planting once seeds that resemble the beak of a crane.
The table shows a brief summary of the rules for growing radishes in the open field
|Sowing||Sowing is carried out in the spring (end of March - second half of April), at the end of summer or before the onset of frost.|
|Lighting||Grow radishes in a well-lit place.|
|Watering mode||Regular watering is necessary, with systematic precipitation, the bushes are watered every 1-2 days, early in the morning or in the evening, after 17 hours. In the heat, watering is carried out twice a day, trying to prevent the soil from drying out.|
|The soil||A loose and fairly light soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7 is suitable.|
|Predecessors||Radish grows successfully in beds after cucumbers, legumes, and potatoes, but after cruciferous, it is better not to plant it. Tomatoes can then be planted on the radish garden.|
|Top dressing||On depleted soil - 2 times during development, on nutritious soil - once. You can use humus or mineral compounds.|
|Pests||In the early stages of growth - a cruciferous flea, when grown in a greenhouse - a bear.|
|Diseases||Fungal infections - black leg, keela, bacteriosis.|
Observing the conditions of maintenance and care, you can grow a wonderful plant. Using Agapanthus seeds, you can get seedlings, however, when growing from seeds, you should be patient, since the first arrow with flowers can only be seen in 5-7 years.
Growing a flower using a plot from the mother plant, flowering will be immediately upon planting in the ground.
There are three ways of reproduction of Agapanthus: seeds, division of basal rosettes and shoots.
Seeds are planted in early spring. First, they are soaked in cold water for 2 to 3 hours. A wide container or box is prepared, as well as fertilized loose peat soil and drainage. A drainage with a height of 3 - 5 cm is poured at the bottom of the box, then soil is poured, it is well moistened with a sprayer. Shallow pits are made, one seed is placed in each. All are sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped. The box must be covered with cellophane or glass to create a greenhouse effect. 2 - 3 times a day, the covering material is removed for 20 minutes for ventilation. It is necessary to monitor the moisture content of the soil, do not allow it to dry out. After 1-2 weeks, the first shoots will appear from the seeds of Agapanthus, at this stage the covering material is removed. As soon as the fourth leaf grows, the seedlings can be transplanted into separate pots with more fertile soil.
Reproduction by division is carried out in autumn or early spring before flowering. The plant is completely dug up, trying to pick up the roots deeper. Lightly shake off the root system from the ground, and, using a sharp knife, cut off part of the roots with 2-3 basal rosettes. To exclude suppuration of the sections, they are treated - dried and covered with activated carbon. The separated parts are sprayed with water, the roots are wrapped in a damp cloth. In this form, the plant must be kept for several days, and then planted in the ground. In the first days after transplanting, the amount of water for irrigation should be minimal. As soon as the plant takes root and grows, full watering is performed.
In a fairly mature plant, young shoots appear next to the main rosette - daughters, which can be separated and planted as independent plants. Moreover, this method of reproduction requires special care, when separating the seedling from the mother bush, you must try not to damage the roots, otherwise both the seedling and the adult plant may suffer.
Mature plants do not like frequent replanting. As a last resort, it is recommended to change the location of the bush every 3 years. Young flowers are more tolerant of changing growing locations.
Since the root system of Agapanthus is weak, you should be extremely careful when digging up, the roots may break.
The flower is sick due to frequent watering, as a result of which the roots begin to rot, the leaves turn yellow.
In insufficient light, the peduncles are strongly stretched, which can lead to their breakage.
When attacked by scale insects and spider mites, the leaves dry up and fall off. For pest control, soapy water and insecticides are used to treat the affected areas.
During the entire period of growth and flowering, the plant is watered abundantly, which ensures good flowering. Water stagnation should be avoided, in which case the roots may begin to rot. The flower needs to provide good drainage of the soil. As the temperature drops, the amount of water is reduced. In winter, watering the plant is not required, just make sure that the roots do not dry out.
When growing Agapanthus outdoors, a number of rules must be followed.
In the cold season, in closed rooms, due to the working heating system, the air is dry, but this does not affect the well-being of indoor Agapanthus in any way.
Additional spraying will not hurt the plant, but its absence will not harm the flower. Agapanthus at home gives a lush color only in wide pots with a good drainage system and subject to abundant watering, periodic fertilizing.
Perennial Agapanthus is one of the favorite ornamental plants among gardeners.
Abundant green dense foliage, tall peduncles, lush bright flowers can decorate any flower bed or flower garden. Many people use Agapanthus flowers in floristry. The beneficial antiviral properties of rhizomes are widely used in traditional medicine.