By: Liz Baessler
Shasta daisies are beautiful, perennial daisies that produce 3-inch wide white flowers with yellow centers. If you treat them right, they should bloom abundantly all summer long. While they look great in garden borders, container grown shasta daisies are easy to care for and very versatile. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow shasta daisies in containers.
Can shasta daisies grow in pots? They certainly can. They’re actually well adapted to container life, as long as you don’t let them get dry or root bound.
When planting shasta daisy in containers, make sure your pot has adequate drainage, but avoid terra cotta. You don’t want your plant’s roots to sit is water, but you don’t want it to leach out too quickly, either. Choose a plastic or glazed ceramic container that’s at least 12 inches deep.
Plant them in an all-purpose potting soil. Container grown shasta daisies prefer full sun, but they will tolerate partial shade too.
Caring for shasta daisy plants in pots is easy, as long as you keep them moist and pruned. Water regularly whenever the topsoil feels dry.
Remove flowers as they fade to make way for new growth. In the fall, after the first frost, prune the plant down to half its size.
Shasta daisies are hardy from USDA zones 5-9, so container grown plants may only be hardy to zone 7. If you live in a colder area, you should overwinter your plant in an unheated garage or basement and water it only very lightly.
Every 3 or 4 years in the spring, you should divide your shasta daisy plant to keep it from getting root bound. Simply remove the plant from the pot, shake off the excess dirt, and use a serrated knife to cut the root ball into four equal pieces, each with some top growth. Plant each section in a new pot and let them grow as usual.
This article was last updated on
Read more about Shasta Daisies
The cheerful Shasta daisy is a classic perennial. It looks similar to the familiar roadside daisy, but has larger and more robust blooms. Here’s how to grow Shasta daisies in your garden!
A European native, Shasta daisies are now naturalized throughout North America. Like clockwork, these daisies return every spring or early summer and bloom until early fall. They can be aggressive growers, so if you don’t want them spreading, choose varieties that don’t produce viable seed or remove flowers before they go to seed. Because they are capable of spreading and are non-native, consider keeping them contained in garden beds away from wild areas.
Shasta daisies tend to form clumps that are 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. They bear all-white daisy petals, yellow disk florets, and contrasting glossy, dark green leaves. Shasta daisies are terrific as cut flowers, as their blooms can last a week or more in arrangements.
Black bees on the clover-heads drowsily clinging,
Where tall feathered grasses and buttercups sway
And all through the fields a white sprinkle of daisies,
Open-eyed at the setting of day.
Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) is a perennial flower grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 4 through 9. The plant produces stark white flowers on stems approximately 3 feet tall. Daisies prefer full sun and a rich, moist soil but tolerate dry conditions when established. The plant reseeds each year but you can propagate daisies from basal cuttings -- the bottom of a stem that is part of the existing root ball -- taken during the spring. Basal cuttings ensure your daisy cuttings grow true to the parent plant. Choose a short healthy stem to use for your basal cutting.
Fill a 2-quart grow pot with a coarse potting mix, one part perlite, one part coarse builder's sand and one part sterile potting soil. Water the potting mix thoroughly so the entire mix is moist. Allow the excess water to drain from the pot so the soil is not soggy.
Locate a healthy stem on the edge of the root ball of your existing daisy plant. Grasp the stem as close to the root ball as possible and cut around the stem, straight into the root ball, with a sharp knife, about a quarter of an inch all the way around the stem.
Remove the bottom leaves and any blooms from the stem. Cut back the top two or three inches of the cutting straight across, so the plant concentrates its energy on forming roots instead of flowering.
Dip the cutting into a small portion of rooting hormone to encourage root growth. Use either liquid or powder hormone according to the package directions.
Plunge the basal cutting into the grow pot at a depth of about 3 inches. Firm the soil around the cutting. Set the pot in a warm, bright location out of direct sunlight and away from drafts. Mist the plant daily and keep the soil moist until roots begin to form.
Check for root development after about four weeks. Give the cutting a slight tug to feel for resistance if the cutting seems anchored in the soil, the roots have started to form. Continue to grow the new daisy plant in the pot until you see new growth developing.
Acclimate the new plant to the garden in stages. Move the daisy plant into the sunlight for a few hours a day. Watch for signs of stress, such as wilting. If the plant becomes stressed, move it back out of the sun and water the soil. Once the daisy plant can sustain a full day in the sun, plant it in your garden.
Julie Richards is a freelance writer from Ohio. She has been writing poetry and short stories for over 30 years, and published a variety of e-books and articles on gardening, small business and farming. She is currently enrolled at Kent State University completing her bachelor's degree in English.
In areas with cool summers, English daisies propagate themselves by spreading crowns. You can dig and divide the plants in spring or fall to take advantage of your plants' exuberance.
Take advantage of the hardy nature of English daisies by potting up any volunteers for some instant color on your deck or porch. Use any standard potting soil, and choose a container with a drainage hole. Only pot up second-year plants in early spring, as these are prepared to bloom, while first-year plants will produce only foliage. Discard plants in summer when blooming is finished, and repot new plants the following season for fresh blooms.
Everything you need to know about growing daisies in your garden.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, then fill soil back in around the plant, keeping it the same level as it was in the container. Water well, and mulch to keep down weeds and preserve moisture.
These classic perennials have narrow serrated leaves and white flowers with yellow disk centers. They range from about 10 inches to several feet tall and include variations with single, double, frilly, or ruffled petals. They're not overly needy plants and are fast to moderate growers. Water them well the first season or two while they develop root systems but don't overdo it. They don't like soggy soils, and they will tolerate some drought once they are established. Give them a balanced fertilizer in late fall. Divide them in spring or fall when they get too big by digging pieces off the edges with a spade. Some varieties may need staked to stay upright.
Yes! Removing spent flowers (called "deadheading") encourages re-blooming and helps the plant look neater. Even in types that don’t re-bloom, snipping off old flowers improves the plant's vigor.
Nope. Shasta daisies are considered outdoor garden plants, and they won't do well inside your home. If you want to enjoy a daisy indoors, look instead for Gerbera daisies, which come in many vibrant colors and flower for two to three months.
Besides the classic white-petaled, yellow-centered Shasta daisies, try English daisies in your garden. They're dainty, cold-loving plants with broad leaves and short fringe-y flowers that come in shades of pink, red and white.
GROWER TIP: "Divide your daisies every two to three years for better flowering and overall plant health," says Karl Batschke, global products manager for Darwin Perennials.
The seed heads of Shasta daisies are not particularly attractive and tend to 'melt' into black mush during the winter. Tidying the long stems by cutting back in the fall to basal foliage will prevent this. Foliage may stay evergreen during the winter months if you live in a warmer climate.
Trimming & Pruning: If you deadhead the plant as soon as blooms fade, you will benefit from a second and sometimes even third blooming. Make sure you do this regularly and do not wait for the plant to completely finish blooming, as you will miss your opportunity. Cut the stems down just below the foliage when deadheading.
Dividing and Transplanting: After approximately three years, you will need to divide your Shasta daisy clumps as they become woody and die out in the center. Dig up the entire clump and dispose of the woody center, making divisions out of the outer young rhizomes (two or three to a division). Replant with the soil just below the crown of the new plant.
Shasta daisy often develops little plantlets along the base of its stems. These are easily recognized by their root buds and can be removed and planted shallowly, keeping them evenly moist. They will root and make a new plant within a few weeks.
Pests & Disease: Aphids can visit the developing buds in early spring, but don’t tend to do much damage.
Additional Concerns: Some people report a strong vegetative scent emanating from Shasta daisies, but this scent is extremely minor and only perceptible when the plant is bruised or cut. It definitely shouldn't be a deal-breaker for growing this lovely perennial.
Ox-eye daisy is extremely vigorous, both by seed and by rhizome, and care should be taken when planting. Some gardeners dead-head the blossoms after blooming to prevent the daisy making its way into the gardens of neighbors.